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How To Best Deal With Voltage Surges?

OK, let's lay out the background:
- In July of last year, I was transferred by my company to Caracas Venezuela. Naturally, I brough my stereo which at the time comprised two Aronov 9100 monoblocks with auto bias circuits.
- Although my system sounded fine in my new digs, the audiophilia nervosa bug compelled me to upgrade my amps to a pair of CJ Premier 8 XS monoblocks - which do NOT have autobiasing. These were a MAJOR improvement over the Aronoxvs...for a about 2 days. On day three, I fried 5 EL34's and one plate fuse upon turn on. One week later, new tubes and fuses ($ 8 each at McMaster Carr!!) arrive, and amps are GREAT...for about one day.On the second day, fry another 5 tubes and plate fuse on same amp, plus two more tubes on other amps.

So..begin to check everything out and find out that the voltage can surge to as high as 140 volts. The CJ's do not like that very much,since a Voltagr surge leads to a big bias current surge on the output tubes. I'm sure the rest of my gear aint happy either, but is unable to complaint as eloquently as the CJ's.

So...I'm in the market for the best voltage regulation I can find. Power conditioning per se is handled quite well in my system by a Marigo Reference unit and Bybee filters for premap and source components, and by Ultimate Outlets for the subs and amps. What I need is a unit that will keep the voltage pretty much at 120 volts. Given the size of the amps, Power PLants arent really an option (too much money, too big). Seems like the Monster AVS2000 or the Exact Power EP15A will do what I want. Would appreciate comments on these or alternative solutions. Thanks!
128x128alexc
11 responses Add your response
jvogt
212 posts
 
I just purchased a Furman AR-1215 voltage regulator/surge
suppressor. So far it seems to work fine with my front
end equipment (Levinson 37/360/380S and TacT RCS 2.0).
At least I sleep a little better at night.....
analogphil
44 posts
 
The voltage in Chicago is filthy. I use a two stage system for both my audio and computer equipment. I use a trip lite conditioner which takes care of surges and "hash" and an APC UPS for voltage drop outs. In other metropolitian cities where there are large variations in voltage, LA brownouts for example, I have noticed the same type (two stage) instalations in server farms and other digital instalations.
zaikesman
3,017 posts
 
Nice amps (and those fuses are $8 no matter where you get 'em) - there's a recent thread I've been on dealing in part with the EP unit; do a forum search. I think the rated draw the EP can handle is something like 1800 watts, and I've got to believe those amps must be up around there in non-XS guise, but yours I don't know (plus the rest of your gear) - you might also want to call C-J.
alexc's avatar
alexc OP
265 posts
 
Thanks guys. Yers, the fuses are expensive anyhwere..and not easy to find either. I bought a box of ten just in case. I've done a number of searches on the forums here and at Audioasylum, an do plan to call CJ tomorrow. In XS configuration, the power drops to ~ 130 watts (vs. the 245 watts of the standard version) I basically need a solution that will atleast accomodate hte amps, ideally also my REL subwoofers (a pair of Stratas at 100 watts each), and most idealy the rest of the system (Tact 2.2x, Muse CDP, Pass Xono, and Linn Lingo power supply). The front end components don't draw that much (maybe 100 watts altogether). As for the Tripplite, I've been on their website briefly and could not quite figure out if the woul really keep the output voltsge at 120 plus minus 1 or 2 % like the Monster and ExactPower units claim to do. Wold appreciate more info on this...
zaikesman
3,017 posts
 
As you probably know, those output figures you quote for the amps and subs don't represent their actual power draw from the wall AC, which will be much higher (but not always as high as the full-rated-output max draw listed on the chassis or in the manual, since your amps aren't class-A in operation). When it comes to the rated capacity of the EP though, that 1800w is about the most you'd want to try to extact from any one conventionally-spec'ed household circuit regardless - beyond that, you'd need to use two circuits (and two EP's!). Best of luck, I'm considering one of these gadgets myself (but my voltage doesn't do what yours is doing...)
zorpman
87 posts
 
A Tripp Lite LC 2400 or 1800 might be your answer, it was mine. The specs indicate that these autotranformers keep to 120v +-5%. Your power supply should be able to handle the 5% without problem (or its a crummy real world design).

The Tripp Lite's are designed to directly address your over/under voltage problem without the audiophile .00000001 overkill for literally 10 times the price.

Do a google search for best prices.

I have no association with Tripp Lite other than a pleased customer.
zaikesman
3,017 posts
 
In fairness to Zorpman's observation about price, the EP also is designed to address waveform integrity through real-time correction of harmonic distortion and peak clipping, and doesn't current-limit (the unit passes power straight from the wall when instantaneous demand exceeds capacity). But what the possible sonic benefits of those things could be, I can't speak to.
rufier
16 posts
 
tripp lite- i use an isobar surge protector. it stops
voltage above 130v 0 nanosecond-instantaneos (spelled that
wrong, i think). they also make auto voltage correcting
units.

rich
alexc's avatar
alexc OP
265 posts
 
All-thanks very much for your input. In the end, I decided to go for an EaxctPower unit. Picked up the original, 2000 watt model on Audiogon this morning. After talking to CJ, this should be enough to hanlde basically my entire system. I hope this takes care of the problem and ha tis is not something else!!
chichiuno
118 posts
 
The EP-15 handles 1800watts, this is a full 15 amps of current.the unit is noted to handle entire h/t systems including video! and you should see/hear the improvments it makes! The unit maintains 120 volts, even if voltage going in the EP-15A ranges from 90-140 v!..... If incomming voltage exceeds 140 volts, the unit will shut everything down unit voltage drops below 140w. Everything, plus the 60hz sinewave is corrected at subcycle speed.
The unit also provides up to 46 amps peak to peak! more than your wall outlet can provide! If current draw exceeds 1800watts for a extended amount of time, the unit will switch right to wall power WITHOUT SHUTTING DOWN!
this is done so fast you cannot hear or see not even a glich while your system is running! this still amazes me!....

Anthony Padilla
Exactpower Sales and marketing Rep
zaikesman
3,017 posts
 
Alex, though it might be hard for you to top Anthony's 'editorial' (ad budgets apparently not growing on trees these days :-), please let us know how this product performs for you...
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