Help with Shanling SCD-T200 please


I have owned and used my T-200 almost daily for the last year with no problems at all. Now, when I turn on the player, it performs as always with the exception that none of the tubes light up. I normally use the tube audio output jacks so I switched to the CD audio out jacks with no change in sound. They both seem to work and sound fine. At the same time the blue light on the disk cover went out. Any ideas? Thank you for your time and knowledge. James
mags5000
i know old post but intersting and wanted to know if any of you guys had problem with sacd? mine can read them only after the second or third try. the rest works perfect. and sounds amazing! i had a parts connexion tag in the back could it be there was a mod inside? 
oh and my transport was changed cost me 16$ what a ripoff :)
Dchan88, Dlstephenson, my T-200 sounded no different with WE 396s vs stock or via SS outputs. It also wouldn't read SACDs or CDRs reliably despite two software tweaks from the North American distributer. It's still for sale at my audio dealer if anyone's interested.
Dlstephenson - I got the level 1 mod plus superclock 3 also. You should try the reversable mods I mentioned above, you will be glad.
This is very interesting. I have the USA Silverline version that was modified by Parts Connexion in Canada. I have always heard a MAJOR difference between the tube out and the SS out. I have also swapped the stock tubes with the WE tubes and I could hear a difference there also.
Jefftech, I heard a difference between the tube and SS outputs of my T-100 but not the T-200. As dchan88 points out above the T-200's volume control basically sucks and is likely the source of the homogenized sound.

What I really want to know is how do you explain a T-200's tube output playing with none of the tubes lit?

Must be his other components or his hearing, right?
Open the bottom plate, remove the cable plug that lead from the DAC board to the tube board, you will experience a major upgrade of the sound. From the solid state output only, of course. This tweak is reversable, so you will not loose anything by trying this.

The other thing you can do is remove the bottom cover that is in the middle section of the digital drive, and also do not put the main bottom cover back. This will relieve all the RFI that had been bottle up inside the chassis and will give you another boost of performance.

Finally if you have your own pre-amp and do not need the volume control of the Shanling, unplug the direct out cable from the DAC board, and plug it into the the empty socket on the left side (looking from outside the upside down CD player) that marked 'Front Out'. This will not only bypass the volume control, but also some very bad electrolytic capacitor. Another reversable tweak with the highest level of sound improvement.
This is amazing. I own this player (and owned the T-100 before that). There is a SIGNIFICANT difference between the tube output and the solid state one. The reviewers also agree on this one. ''My own conclusions'' Khyr, is that unfortunately your other components may not be revealing enough - or regretfully, you just cannot hear into it like most people can. Hey, there is a sound for everyone out there. You seem to imply that the Shanling is all show - it's not. It IS a very refined player, the fact that it is also a good-looking machine should not be held against it.
James for what it's worth I never heard any difference between the tube and solid state outputs of my T200 at all, ever. Even with all the pretty lights working. Your experience confirms my suspicions but I'll leave you to draw your own conclusions.
Well if you have sound then the tubes cant be bad. Both left and right, are ok? Are you using the stock tubes? If so just exchange them around if your using the upgraded WE396 tubes (smaller) you can switch them but I recommend them in pairs. The left 2 tubes are used for the RCA output and the right pair are the Headphone output. Otherwise service.