Headshell wire broke

Thanks for all the responses. The lead wires for Nottingham are really thin, so I may just send it out for repair.

Nottingham cartridge pins are fragile and prone to break off of their wires if not handled quite delicately. Solder the lead back on - the VERY thin wire may need to be stripped of about 1/8 inch of insulation to accomplish this. Be careful of how much/how long you put heat on it. These fine wires can be damaged with too much. If you're not confident in doing this get it to someone who is technically competent to do the job. This problem isn't a biggee and does not warrant sending it away for repair.

It sounds like you are too much of a novice to do this yourself. Get it done correctly by a professional, and be done with it. In the future, hold the wire in your fingers, and slide the cartridge onto the wire. That way, the cartridge pin can't slip and be torn apart. After you get the 4 pins connected THEN mount the cartridge. I've been doing it this way for years without incident.

Hi RF,

As usual, Albert gives good advice. I can only offer a few follow up details.

You didn't answer his question about soldering experience so in case you
don't have that here are some specific points.

* do NOT have the cartridge tab attached to the cartridge when making the
repair. Slipping it onto a wood toothpick may allow you to hold it in the best
position for the work.

* tonearm wire is very thin so not much heat will be needed to solder it, the
cartridge tab will need a little more; something like a 20-25 watt pencil type
should work. Soldering pencils in low watt range should be inexpensive.

* do not use a soldering gun or higher watt pencil, they will quickly melt away
too much insulation on the wire.

* a bit of bare wire should be exposed at the connection, 1/8" should be
enough.

* a silver content solder is recommended, you can find that at Radio Shack
and most hardware and electronics supply stores.

* if you have no soldering experience, you can find "how to"
videos on line. The most important thing will be to heat the wire and tab,
then touch the solder wire to them. I strongly suggest finding some thin wire
and practicing several connections before attempting your tone arm wire.

Good luck.

Becoming a photojournalist for Magnum would indeed be a dream come true.

Many years ago I ran around with a Spectra meter and Leica M2 and M4 shooting TRI-X film and only available light, regardless of how low the light.

Fellow photographers and I referred to that shooting style as "available darkness" (smile). I was greatly impressed by W. Eugene Smith and have some signed books of his work.

If the tonearm wire is one piece from headshell leads to preamp connection as you describe, it's probably best to make the repair and enjoy it until you feel the need to upgrade.

Perhaps if you state your approximate location, someone can suggest a tech that can bail you out. It's really an easy fix for an experienced person, and maybe as last resort I could talk you though it on the phone if no other option.

Hi Albert,
Thanks for your response and offer to help. I looked at your profile and it's very impressive, I think its cool that you are a photographer. My grandfather was a serious hobbyist and liked birding and still life photograpahy. My biggest fantasy is to become a photojournalist for Magnum. Lol! Anyway, back to the topic. The thing is the arm and headshell is one piece and I cannot see far enough into the arm tube to see how they are connected, but they are push on terminals at the cartridge.
I am also wondering if it would be a good idea to completely rewire the tonearm and in the process replace the current leads with something more subsantial. What do you think?

Hi Albert,

For those who may not know, a Hakko soldering station is virtually a "must Have" for audiophiles. I don't know what I did before I got mine.

Since you are asking, I assume you have no experience soldering tonearm leads?

Look first to see if the leads are connected by push on terminals at the headshell and cartridge. If so, remove and replace all headshell leads with a better set. Solder problem solved and (likely) better sound.

If soldered at headshell, maybe another headshell with new leads will fit the arm? Last, if soldering the broken lead turns out to be the best option DO NOT solder it while connected to the phono cartridge.

If you lived near me, I would do this for free. Would not take five minutes and I have a high quality Hakko solder station and several kinds of solder.