FM Antenna question

cool beans that was an easy one glad to be of assistance

:>)

Problem solved. Tied up the yag with just an inch to clear the wood rafters, and moved the coax which was laying on some phone lines/cable tv coax. Not sure if the later mattered but... , signal is strong and reception is clear.
Thanks for all the advise guys.
Bob

I have same problem.I put some cardboard boxes on the floor of attic and placed antenna on top of them,it makes it nice and easy to rotate for strong signal.

Thanx Bob,
No all the coax, balm, leads and all OK.
Station I want is a 3 not 6 or 7 out of 10. The 6 and 7 is the best I can do to local stations (20) mile out. The pegged meter is from another tuner on the local stations, sorry about the poor post. I had several tuners, the tuner is not the problem.
Bottom line, yag touches wood, in a low pitch attic with truss supports thoughout the attic. HOW MUCH A DIFFERENCE does that make????? If it was an easy fix, I'd try to tie up with twine as suggested, but the thing is sooo dang big in a space that is impossible, so my option is to get another smaller one I can tie up. This antenna is going to come in contact with wood, no getting around that due to size. The antenna is in line with both stations, one 275 dgrees one 90 degrees, make sense. I am elderly or I'd put the dang thing on my chimney.

this isn't making a lot of sense to me (at least the way I read your post) maybe I'm not understanding you or missing some info?
You "can barely receive" this desired station, yet the signal strength is either very good (7/9) or even max'd. What's the problem: is it noisy / distorted, sounds thin & weak, what's the deal?
What cable are you using: quad shield RG-6 coax is a preferred downlead. Do you have a 300 ohm to 75 ohm balum to match the 300 ohm antenna to the 75 ohm coax? Are your F-connectors crimped properly? Is the RF input of your tuners(s) properly impedance matched to the downlead (balnus there too if 300 ohm inputs - no balun if not). If the downlead is 300 ohm twinlead then you must keep it away from any metal along the route.
Grounding the antenna is not going to help anything so forget that.
Is the antenna fairly well aimed at your desired station? The mounting method I use is same as Cerrot: hang from the roof support beams using strong twine, and tie to the antenna crossmember, not to the elements. This way you may be able to swivel the antenna somewhat in order to best orient it and keep it above the wood.
Is the antenna itself in reasonable condition: elements not bent and the tie lines clear / not touching the crossmember? No broken insulators?
Because you apparently have a lot of signal strength you may indeed be able to use a smaller yagi. Have you tried any other tuners - borrow an auditon piece or have a friend bring theirs over and compare performance. Also take your tuner over to their house or to the dealership and compare that way.
Maybe you have so much gain that you are receiving co-channel from another station on the same freq? A variable gain tunable preselector may help; or a smaller gain yagi.
In my setup I use a Magnum Dynalab MD205 Signal Sleuth preselector preamp at the downstairs end. I have no preamp in the attic. Antenna is an older Radio Shack brand FM yagi(no idea how much gain or what model) it's been up there for over 30 years; it is about 28 feet above ground level. I am 60 miles out in deep fringe yet I receive very well. I've had a Dynaco FM5, then a Magnum Dynalab FT101, now a Magnum Dynalab MD102. All have worked very well with this setup.

Do you kind folks think I would be better off by going with a smaller yag in the attic and then would be able to keep it off the rafters??
Thanks,
Bob

Ground not an issue. I disconnect. I need help re: suggestions for attic antenna issues.
Ed Hanlon was a contributor to the fm tuner info site and ran a mod/antenna business that was popular few years back.
Used to be called APS I think.

Truman,
Antenna is usually not grounded thru equipment since it is separated by transformer but often is grounded with thin wire to prevent static built-up (being isolated on shingle covered roof). It is not relevant if antenna makes your house 5 ft taller (compare to street lights or trees) but very important to prevent static charging from the wind that can make your house electrically look like skyscraper. Recommended grounding, found in every manual, is for that purpose (to prevent) and not for the actual accident since grounding rod has to be very thick and works only for small (branches) lightning. Main strike is 1 foot wide plasma that will melt most likely anything.

Lightning hits many houses with or without antenna and it could as well hit your house without grounded antenna (as it did hit my mother's house in Sarasota). Disconnecting antenna is probably a good practice in heavy lightning area.

F.Y.I.
I found a grounded (& it's grounded into your equipment if connected) antenna in my attic worked pretty much like a lightening rod! Lightning hit the corner of my house, fortunately charring it only, then travelled down to fry the tuner and several components. This despite many much taller trees surrounding me. I
now have it set up to easily disconnect the antenna when not in use.
Still, it's worth it to have a good tuner/antenna set-up.
truman/Atlanta

I did a quick search, but could not find the antenna mentioned.

Larger/more elements = more directional/harder to point.

Since your in the attic without a mast, before going with an amp, attach a ground wire from where the antenna mast pipe attaches, to a grounding rod or other adequate ground.

I have y antenna in the attic as well, but hung from rafters by strong cord. Not ideal but I know where you are coming from. I added the Stelth Antenna Amp from Magnum Dynalab, which helped alot, but never as good as being on the roof. $400 bucks-worth a try (I have the Modded MR78 as well-I cannot pick up a station 50 miles away.