End Game Turntable suggestions

My end game table is a VPI Prime 21. It’s my second VPI.

I’m running a Soundsmith cart on it.

I would recommend it, or the Prime Sig with the gimbal arm.

Technics SP10 mk3 will usually cost a great deal more than a mk2 and is more difficult to find. If cost is an object, certainly the mk2 is fine. In my own experience the Denon DP80 is a bit better than the mk2 in stock form. I found the OEM mk2 in a slate plinth to have a trace “gray” coloration compared to the DP80 also in a slate plinth. But the SP10 mk3 is a world class turntable even by modern standards, in my opinion. I hasten to add that my mk3 was purchased NOS, now resides in a slate and solid cherrywood plinth, was Krebs modified, runs on JP Jones discrete chip installed and calibrated by JP. Just to say that in my experience there is more than a casual difference between a mk2 and mk3.

If you are after a end game high mass TT, then hard to go past a Nottingham Analogue Dais TT and Wave Mechanic PS with either their 10" or 12" Anna arms. Bullet proof designs that look and sound great with great customer support. 

An uncommon brand with a great lineage is Nottingham Analogue. Their Dais design was one of the last by the late great Tom Fletcher. Best to buy from the UK. Price without tax is in your range.

I have the predecessor Mentor with a custom plinth and Dais bearing, motor and power supply. It doesn’t perform to the level of my DIY all air bearing (thrust AND radial air) table, but it’s no disgrace in that company. Add a Terminator air tonearm (if available) and you have a superb piece that will last you until you have a six figure itch.

One quirk with the Dais: you have to start it rotating by hand. Fletcher’s great insight was to use a precision low power motor, which was only just strong enough to rotate the platter against bearing friction. That leaves very little energy to turn into noise. And it works out that way in practice - the background is astonishingly black.

Dear  @musicmatters1206  : " Basis Signature 2500 with vacuum, i am going to have sleepless nights....  "

Well that unit set you back over 15K: for what?

You need a TT with speed stability mated with an excellent tonearm and these are part characteristics of the RP-10 that you can add the Basis reflex clamp and you are done rith there.

Put your money where it mattters after the RP-10:  A Lyra cartridge/VDH low output, Ortofon, MSL, etc, etc and a way better phono stage as  this " humble " unit by PS Audio that competes even aginst the very expensive $$$$  Swiss CH units. Please read the review at the Atkinson measurements that no one Zestos can even dream but that helps a lot for you can have a very high resolution and heavy quality performance levels in the sounds reproduction at your room/system:

PS Audio Stellar Phono phono preamplifier Page 2 | Stereophile.com

PS Audio Stellar Phono phono preamplifier Measurements | Stereophile.com

It's your money and your system but don't waste your time and money for " expensive " audio products. Price tag means nothing for any one. 

A fine tunned room/system will sounds a lot better than a maga$$$$$$$ systems where money can't " fine tuning " job no matters what, yes you have to learn through the time that " fine tunning " but first step yo do it is that your system links have the " hidden capacities " to do it and the RP and PS Audio have it.

R.