End Game Turntable suggestions

I use a Thorens TD-1601 with an Ortofon Cadenza Blue running through a Hegel V-10. To me this sounds fantastic. The arm lifts and the unit shuts down after the album side is done. The other feature that is/was important to me is the easily adjustable tonearm height, VTA. I can run any cartridge and keep the appropriate verticle tracking. I had a Rega 8 and it was an excellent TT but I hated shimming it when swapping cartridges. I sold it and purchased the 1601 and never looked back.

Another plus for the SME 6. Grab it while it’s on sale with this substantial price savings! 

Take a look at The Tien Audio TT3 or TT5

By considering Vintage TT's and as already suggested, the Technics SP 10 Mk ii or Mk iii. There is a lot to be had in term of performance for the outlay, and there is plenty of support at hand for this Brand and especially these two Models in both the US and Europe.

My own Mk ii is with a Custom Paint Coating to the Chassis costing £200.

Finished in the Blackest of Blacks with a Multiple Coating of Lacquers, with a Polished Finish. If visual appeal is important there is not much more to be desired if black is one's preference.

There is no shortage of Plinth Designs available for this model, a Web Search will reveal the works being carried out.

I feel a SP10 Mk ii fully overhauled, with a New Applied Coating to the Chassis, 'if desired'. Mounted in a Bespoke Plinth will be achievable for not too far from half your budget if donor model is prudently sourced. I can advise on this via email if interested in where to search out a donor.

A SP10 Mkii or Mkiii are a very sought after TT, in both the US and Europe with again in both the US and Europe, excellent servicing facilitation seen on offer from a variety of sources.  Having the Power Supply concern resolved is a minimum concern if changing from 110V to 230V 60Hz.      

Well looked after Models hold their Value and are Investments that are appreciating in Value and sell quickly when the need may arise. As the TT is to be a Keeper, the selling on is not really a short-term concern.   

I have been careful/prudent and have a substantial appreciation in the value, when compared to what my Refurbed and Modified Mk ii cost.

For the record the SP10 Mkii, in a Refurbed / Modified condition is the Model that finished my regular usage of Overhauled / Modified Idler Drives.

Idler Drives finished my regular usage of Belt Drives many many years past.  

Korf has their new arm on pre purchase.
I was leaning towards it, but a different came up secondhand… so more expensive (even used) but it is “end game” for me.

One preferred option (but not must-have) is universal voltage, as I may move the unit to Europe later.

I would not worry too much.
I have been running 110v equipment in Au for a couple of decades, and have always yearned to get rid of the transformer. And recently I did.

However a lot of people are running pricy power conditioners that among other things sometimes have isolation transformers. By running a 230v to 110v transformer my system seemed to be pretty immune to a lot of power supply issues.

I know that on the Sota they have an external supply… And maybe others do as well.
The legacy Luxman Micro-Seiki etc Japanese tables need a 100v… so they need yet a different transformer.

My current vintage turntable (Project Perspective) is 22 years old, and while I don’t know how to compare to something really amazing, I can say that my setup is lacking detail and bass. The tonearm is terrible to keep aligned.

Maybe it only needs an arm?
Are the rumble specs on it?

Perhaps an arm with more mass is needed, or maybe a high compliance cart would suit it?

The arm+cart is one beastly combo, but the table is generally separate and not part of the bass. Maybe some suspended tables affect the bass…??

Personally I would be optimising the arm before the table, but I am totally guessing at your table.