DIY Speaker Kits, a good idea?


Looking at the high quality of drive units in DIY loudspeaker kits like from Madisound, GR Research, SEAS, etc., it easily looks like a sonic bargain.

However, the typical audiophile mantra is to demo for yourself to find what subjectively “resonates” with you.  Can’t do this with a kit.  But a kit could be a sonic jackpot for one on a tight budget.  Also seems fun to build.

What’s your opinion?

kennyc

Like 'Go Faster' Stripes showing their dominating presence on a Vehicle, creating the sham, this thing in a speed king.

@pindac 

When and where I grew up, go-fast stripes were a manufacturer's go-to way to making a humble sedan into a nimble sports machine. That, a pair of fog lights, a displacement bump all the way to an awesome 1300 cc, ridiculous rear-wheel camber and you were set.

Haven't thought about those bestriped family sedans in ages. A few of them were actually legit fast, but most were donkeys in race horse drag.

Kids would swap the stock carb for a double-barrel from the junkyard and claim phenomenal performance increases that existed only in their heads. But the engine would foul plugs and sputter and miss at idle like a real Italian sports car, so there was that.

The more it changes...

 

@nogaps: One ET LFT-8b owner claims that when he removed the wood trim rail from the top of each speaker, the height of the sound stage increased. I haven’t tried it yet, but diffraction caused by speaker enclosures is a real thing, and can result in the sound stage being "locked" onto the enclosure (rather than floating free of it). If removing the top rail increases image height, it’s possible that removing the side rails may result in increased sound stage width (and improved center fill?).

 

I understand what you’re saying.  I’ve done a fair amount of research and have viewed  a number of Danny’s videos on open baffles, dipoles, baffle width, baffle diffraction..etc. 

As for one owner claiming something...good to be aware of, but lots of folks claim lots of things.  If they all claimed the same thing then there’s a better chance of it actually existing.  With the speaker model being around for 20(?) years, I’d think any tweaks would be pretty well documented by this time.  The top trim piece itself is 1/4 of and inch thick.  The grill tops are slightly (1/16-1/8th inch) higher than the trim piece. The grills are 7/8 of an inch thick.  I’d be pretty surprised if there was any discernible impact of having the trim piece on or off.  If the top trim piece has that much impact, I’d think the grills would have far more as they’re square and hanging off the front of the panel quite a ways. It’s very easy to remove the top trim..two screws into the side trim pieces. The side trim pieces(1 inch deep..same as the metal panel and 3/4 inch wide) can be removed by just a few screws. It would take a phillips screw driver and a couple minutes to remove them. This would be a very easy experiment, if folks were so inclined. 

At some point I’ll be stripping off all the trim when the replacements are ready.  Making the replacements would take about two days if I start with rough lumber and include finishing time. I’ll check how things sound with all the trim off at that time. 

I asked Bruce if adding 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch width to the side rails(such that a little wood trim shows when the grills are on) would have any sonic impacts. He said no impact as long as the outside edges were rounded over with a 1/2 round over bit...which I was planning anyway (same as the appreciable round overs used in the Super V build, or any speaker cab/baffle build).  I also asked him if I could mount new grills with rare earth magnets imbedded in the trim and grill frame. He said that would be ok also.

The top piece as shown above..I realize that may be a stretch with respect to no impact. I’ll mock up a similar piece and try it out before making something more permanent. I may well reduce it’s size when I start building it, depending on how it looks. I’d like to keep the overall streamline appearance. If I notice any impact, then I’ll reduce it to something similar to what’s on the speaker now.  

At some point I’ll be picking up a microphone and doing some testing, but that’ll be after the dust settles with the SV build and new amps are installed. 

@devinplombier More Off Topic

The Local Vehicle Garage I use for maintaining a Vehicle, has a Proprietor who has a keen interest in renovating and modernising Scooters from a vintage era such as  - Vespa - Lambretta Models.

In the UK, Italy and even from China, there are supporting services available that have a strong footing in the activity. There can be found many ways to move these forwards with onboard tech' if sympathetic restoration is not too concerning.

A Three Gear Change Scooter with a Max' Speed of 35 MPH, when entering the market if 50' 70's, is today a Five Gear Change, with over 100 MPH able to be achieved. I am confident 125 MPH was suggested can be attained depending on the engine rebuild selected.

When looking at the Design and those little, I mean little wheels, and knowing these Scooters are able to be used on Public used roads. One can only think anybody extending their MPH beyond 30 MPH has a death wish. 

Man in Mancave comes up with their design for the fastest Scooter ever, and the follow up is a queue of Boys and their Toys wanting in on the act. 

Mind You the fleets of Uber Delivery Workers on Electric Bikes in a City are with a selection of bike owners with modified Electric Bikes, which are easy able to hit 50 MPH, these things are rarely seen pottering along, the usual use makes the bike a  silent assassin, especially with the typical user not caring to stop at a Red Light. Crossing roads is a new skill to be relearned and followed like never before.