Dedicated Circuits - Subpanel importance?


My system is no more. Sold everything. Starting from scratch. Thanks to you and seven months of experience I am doing the following, which is taking care of the number one component, the room:

  1. Treating. The full GIK order in October is starting to arrive.
  2. Running one or more dedicated circuits.

I am addressing #2 in this post. There are extensive discussions here and one can spend hours if not days trying to wring-out the critical details needed for a DIY solution. I have spent hours and there a few things I need to confirm before I proceed because I was unable to find definitive answers.

I am doing this myself. I do not want or need lectures on only having a licensed electrician do this work. I have been doing my own electrical work for many years and am very comfortable doing so.

  1. Does a subpanel help? Is it required? Subpanels are typically supplied from a breaker off of the main panel's bus, so I'm guessing there is no advantage in terms of SQ? Perhaps if I can independently ground the subpanel it might make a difference?
  2. Opening up my walls is not an option, so I need to use conduit. This may restrict the number of lines if the wire should not share the same conduit? If I am restricted to Romex 8 or 10,2 versus metal-clad, is it okay for two runs to occupy the same conduit?
  3. How much better is metal-clad? Is it required vs Romex? Will metal conduit accomplish the same result with Romex?

Answers to these questions will complete my plans and I will go forward at speed. Hopefully this discussion helps others as well even if it's to know what to have their electrician setup for them.

Thank you!

 

 

 

 

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Showing 2 responses by rajugsw

I ran 10AWG stranded for my Audio only equipment using flexible Armored Conduit (AC) cable that my local electrical supply house provided me. He sold me the stranded 10AWG separately for the AC cable. What a pain in the Ass to fish 3 wires (H,N,GND) through about 70 ft. or so of AC ! But with a Fish Tape, I "got ’er done".

Installed a 20A Breaker at the panel for the Audio Equipment along with a Tripp Lite powerstrip (also 20A) into a PS Audio Receptacle. Ran another circuit 12 AWG AC solid conductor 70ft. run f(also 20A) or just my Computer Equipment, TV, ISP Modem/Router/WiFI box, and any other Computer peripherals.

Strangely, I had a recent power surge which took out my BAT VK50-SE Preamp (sent to their factory already). But NONE of my other equipment was affected. The Preamp was turned off as was everything else except the PS Audio DirectStream DAC and the Bluesound Node 2i.

No power regenerators or conditioning and my AC line is as quiet as a mouse. Maybe I’ll build a Balanced Transformer one day. But for now, I’m happy (until the BAT went down) :-(

@lowrider57 Yes and the stupid thing is I have a soft start circuit board that I bought (and tested) off of eBay which is residing inside an incomplete Amplifier project that I’m working on. I’m sure if I would have “Jerry rigged” the AC power between it and my BAT Preamp, I still be listening to the eight 6H30 tubes that reside inside the BAT.

Lesson learned (I guess). The internal fuse I’ve never changed or looked at since I bought it 1.5 years ago.

If the fuse is the wrong amperage, that too would explain a lot. When I checked the fuse, I only checked for continuity, not it’s Amp rating. Stupid me :-(

Damn good question though.