Dedicated 20 Amp Line for Audio

OK, here’s what I got so far:

I can run one circuit or two, or three, or four, or five, or six, either way.

One line for digital and one for analog, but for the current draw of most audio systems, one should suffice.

Every wire brings RFI into the line, but there’s no RFI’s here.

10 gauge wire for 20 amp circuit, 12 gauge wire for 20 amp circuit, but if you don’t want to hurt your hands, 14 gauge wire for 15 amp circuit.

12/3 - 12/2 (fortunately, I know the difference).

hilde45 & auxinput - completely over the top!

I didn’t ask about power cables or power conditioners?

Metal sheathed wire is ok but so is Romex 14/2, 12/2, 12/3 or 10/2.

Run conduit.

Wait, that is all wrong! I need cryo- Romex, now what size was it?

Great video, crapola video

Heck, if I had chickens to feed they’d all be dead from starvation. No time to feed ’em, let alone watch the Fremer video (yet).

I’m confused

Easy fix.. find a licensed electrician with years of knowledge. Then you won't have to wade through piles of miss guided and silly information. 
Cheers

I've almost finished revising my system with additional lines of #8 wire.

One line is for digital ( CD & DAC ), another for the woofer amps & subs and one line for everything else.

Each AC line has its own dedicated PS Audio power plant. 

A question I would ask is what amp are you using?  Difference between a 8 watt tube and a 500 watt ss can determine if you want to go with 14g

My advice is 12/2 (likely will not hurt your hands) and will cover all amps

RFI is everywhere (if you are on planet Earth that is lol)

If you have 6 open legs in your breaker box make sure your box is not oversized for your line into the house.

I have a very unusual house. Built in 1979, it is some kind of kit that was imported from Canada. It measures 20’ x 40’ with a vaulted ceiling running lengthwise.
The really weird thing about it is it is built-in panels that consist of 5/8" OSB used for the interior walls, floors and ceilings then 3/8" OSB for the exterior sheathing. Then sandwiched in between the 6" walls, floors and ceilings are rigid, styrofoam insulation and glued onto each surface. This was all done as an insulating factor. You can heat the house with a candle!

Most 110V outlets are currently on the floor as it is near impossible to get a wire up the wall from the crawl space. The bottom of the ground sill of the wall sits almost center over the concrete foundation with no room to get a bit at the right angle in there. You have to drill at an angle through the exterior sheathing, outside the house in order to get the right angle down into the crawlspace. Then you drill another hole in the interior wall to line up with where you drilled on the outside the house and fish your wire through that way.

Then comes the fun part, you have to bust out all the white styrofoam. It’s as hard as concrete and sticks to you like glue, it’s a real messy situation. Also, I have found no 2 x 6 studs in the wall so far, just foam!

The idea here is I thought I would save some money and do some of this work myself. Like running in this dedicated line for the stereo system rather than paying an electrician $100 an hour to fight with this. I’m sure they would not be very happy doing this job as well.

Once I figure out what size, type and how many lines to run, I will purchase some wire, run it in, leave them long, and let the electrician terminate them accordingly, once on-site.

That’s all.