Dedicated 20 Amp Line for Audio


Lots of threads on the subject already, but I’m a little confused on one thing. Is the dedicated line just for the amplifier (in my case an integrated) and another line for the other components? Or, is it just one line for everything in the complete audio system?

Thanks!

high-amp

Showing 13 responses by high-amp

Thanks to all. OK, I think I’m going to run two, 20’ long, dedicated lines. One for analog & one for digital. Both of those on the opposite rails to that of "noisier" items on the panel.

14/2 I presume and is Home Depot stuff OK?

 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-100-ft-14-2-Solid-Romex-SIMpull-CU-NM-B-W-G-Wire-28827428/202316379

Someone in a past thread recommended armored cable, maybe overkill? 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-14-2-x-100-ft-Stranded-CU-MC-Metal-Clad-Armorlite-Cable-55017723/202250418

 

OK, here’s what I got so far:

I can run one circuit or two, or three, or four, or five, or six, either way.

One line for digital and one for analog, but for the current draw of most audio systems, one should suffice.

Every wire brings RFI into the line, but there’s no RFI’s here.

10 gauge wire for 20 amp circuit, 12 gauge wire for 20 amp circuit, but if you don’t want to hurt your hands, 14 gauge wire for 15 amp circuit.

12/3 - 12/2 (fortunately, I know the difference).

hilde45 & auxinput - completely over the top!

I didn’t ask about power cables or power conditioners?

Metal sheathed wire is ok but so is Romex 14/2, 12/2, 12/3 or 10/2.

Run conduit.

Wait, that is all wrong! I need cryo- Romex, now what size was it?

Great video, crapola video

Heck, if I had chickens to feed they’d all be dead from starvation. No time to feed ’em, let alone watch the Fremer video (yet).

I’m confused

dseltz - currently (no pun intended) I have a Luxman 507 uXII integrated amp on a layaway plan with a local dealer.  

I have a very unusual house. Built in 1979, it is some kind of kit that was imported from Canada. It measures 20’ x 40’ with a vaulted ceiling running lengthwise.
The really weird thing about it is it is built-in panels that consist of 5/8" OSB used for the interior walls, floors and ceilings then 3/8" OSB for the exterior sheathing. Then sandwiched in between the 6" walls, floors and ceilings are rigid, styrofoam insulation and glued onto each surface. This was all done as an insulating factor. You can heat the house with a candle!

Most 110V outlets are currently on the floor as it is near impossible to get a wire up the wall from the crawl space. The bottom of the ground sill of the wall sits almost center over the concrete foundation with no room to get a bit at the right angle in there. You have to drill at an angle through the exterior sheathing, outside the house in order to get the right angle down into the crawlspace. Then you drill another hole in the interior wall to line up with where you drilled on the outside the house and fish your wire through that way.

Then comes the fun part, you have to bust out all the white styrofoam. It’s as hard as concrete and sticks to you like glue, it’s a real messy situation. Also, I have found no 2 x 6 studs in the wall so far, just foam!

The idea here is I thought I would save some money and do some of this work myself. Like running in this dedicated line for the stereo system rather than paying an electrician $100 an hour to fight with this. I’m sure they would not be very happy doing this job as well.

Once I figure out what size, type and how many lines to run, I will purchase some wire, run it in, leave them long, and let the electrician terminate them accordingly, once on-site.


That’s all.

auxinput - thank you. I am kind of narrowing this all down with the help of you and the others that have so kindly posted here!

longplayet - Not sure if I would qualify for upper echelon, but I definitely want to go above domestic grade. Thank you for the leads! I will check it out

auxinput - Thanks, but I'm not even so sure about handling 12 awg, just ask oldhvymec. His hands hurt jusut talkin’ about 12 awg! (sorry I can’t paste his comments, as he removed his post?)

 

lancelock - Looks intersting (and expensive). I will contact Well pleased Audio on Monday and check it out.

auxinput - invalid: I was starting to think #10 was the ticket, but you’re right #12 with it’s better flexability should be sufficient. Or possibly the product lancelock recommends above?

If I’m only running one line (most recommended way to do it here) I will need less than 50’

Again, how do you know all this stuff!

This is perfect, as I work in Canada (getting paid in Dollarettes) so I can ship it to my office there and just bring it across the border myself and hopefully save a bunch on shipping.

The electrician will be on-site very soon and I will see how much  we need before I order it.

Thanks again for all your help!

millercarbon - gotta love those 90’s and pullin’ yer wire! Yes, cryo is good. At one time I was a sales rep for Black Sand Cable and all our power cords were cryo’d, prided ourselves on the fact.
thyce - very informative, thank you, but plug directly in to the wall socket. I presume you have whole house surge protection?

 

The way I’m reading it so far (Fremer included) is just one dedicated line for audio.