They are just oxide finished hex cap screws, they tend to rust. You can unscrew them and use WD40 and a toothbrush to remove surface rust.
Conrad-Johnson Discolored (rusty?) Allen screws on side of MF-2550.
I just bought a used CJ MF-2550 a short time ago and it's been working perfectly. Today I was just checking the routing of my cables with a flashlight and I accidentally noticed that there are Allen (hex) screws on either side of the amp, between the cooling fins. There are also regular Philips screws. The question is that the Philips screws all look completely normal, but some of the Allen screws are discolored and may be rusty.
Would you think I should just leave well enough alone since the amp is working OK or should the discolored Allen screws be replaced? I'd be hesitant to do the replacement myself, in case any of them broke off and left inner components unsupported. Any advice would be appreciated. A link to a photo I just took follows.
https://i.imgur.com/rJnfyZs.jpg
Would you think I should just leave well enough alone since the amp is working OK or should the discolored Allen screws be replaced? I'd be hesitant to do the replacement myself, in case any of them broke off and left inner components unsupported. Any advice would be appreciated. A link to a photo I just took follows.
https://i.imgur.com/rJnfyZs.jpg
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Speakers are NHT 2.5 Preamp is McCormack Micro Line Drive DAC is Jolida FX Glass DAC III CD Player is Rega Planet Turntable is Thorens TD-203 Phono Stage is Rotel RQ-970BX DVD and Hi-Res: Sony UBP-X700 Not real high end, but I used the system for many years with a smaller amp than I just got. I’m a little reluctant to spend a lot for a factory check when everything is working well but I may ask them how to handle the rusty screws. |
Those appear to be socket head cap screws that are often made from black oxide alloy steel. The black oxide process is used to add, "mild corrosion resistance, for appearance, and to minimize light reflection. To achieve maximal corrosion resistance the black oxide must be impregnated with oil or wax."Moisture in the air (humidity) can contribute to corrosion. Humidity present in lower levels of conventional homes (i.e., in basements) can condense on cooler surfaces. Increasing air flow, increasing temperature, and operating a dehumidifier all help reduce problems related to humidity and condensation. However, even mild condensation over years could have contributed to the oxidation you see, it is not uncommon on those types of screws. If you are concerned, open the top and look for any obvious evidence of corrosion inside (be safe - unplug the amp first and do not touch any large capacitors or other areas which could result in shock). If you see significant evidence of corrosion inside, take a picture and send it to CJ for discussion. However, if everything looks fine then I wouldn't worry about it except to make sure you are operating the amplifier in a warm, dry place. If you wish, you can replace the screws or clean and oil them as discussed by @russ69. |
I'd be inclined to just get a bunch of rustproof screws and replace them but I want to first find out if they have to be a specific kind of metal and what they are fastened to. I'd hate to mess up the job of re-fastening new screws to components inside the amp since it's working fine now. I also noticed something strange. At the exact same position on both right and left sides (the fifteenth cooling fin), there is an empty screw hole with threads showing. Since it's at the same position on both sides, it doesn't look like an accident. Maybe the case has the threads but they're not used for this amp design. I hope I can get an answer from the company without having to bring it there for service. |
OP a little dab will do you. Put a little light oil like 3 in one or lighter WD40 on a soft fiber or even brass bristle tooth brush size brush. Gently brush the heads of the cap bolts. Just get them wet.. Leave it alone. Let it set for 20 min or so.. Two or three swipes two or three times.. They will look like new AND be ready to remove it you want to do so.. It's not the space shuttle.. LOL BUT that is how you would work on it too :-) Wipe off any excess with Isopropyl. Touch up the heads with a permanent marker, touch up paint or nail polish.. Regards |
For years I've use Ospho/phosporic acid all the time to neutralize rust on parts. It won't harm surrounding finish and gets rid of the rust. It doesn't burn your skin like you think it might. I use a q-tip and dip it in the bottle then lightly dab on rusted bolts, screws and parts. https://www.acehardware.com/departments/home-and-decor/cleaning-and-disinfectants/rust-removers/1386... |