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Choosing a tube amp for bi-amping just the mids and high frequency. EP4.7s

I sold off my amp/pre combo and Dali Helicons at pretty much the same time and this leaves me building a 2 ch system pretty much from scratch. 

Purchased an integrated Jolida 6802 (6sn7 & EL34s) and planned on matching with some Tekton Electrons.

In the mean time I put my Emerald Physic EP4.7s back in the chain, which require bi-amping. When I put them away I didn't have any love for them. I'd actually been trying to sell them for 6 months with no luck. 
I actually really like them now. I think my amp at the time was maybe not properly biased or just a bad match for them. 
https://www.emeraldphysics.com/products/ep-47#specificaton

Leads me to this:
I still have a Rogue 6SN7 pre amp and want to pick up a tube amp for the mid and high frequency of the EP4.7s
They have a sensitivity of 95db so I'm guessing I could get away with just about any amp. 

I'm looking for warmth, air, none aggressive highs and sound stage.  Maybe at the expense of bottom end and grunt?  SET I'm guessing?
That's why I'm here asking. I'm wondering if the usual reviews of amps don't come into play here because I'll be
bi-amping with the subwoofer being driven by a SS amp with more power. 

The Jolida is currently sort of working for me. I'm using my BSound Node2i being controlled by my phone for volume control of both amps (Jolida and SS for subs) 
And it sounds lovely until I start to crank it up. And poorly recorded music is absolutely un-listenable with this set up. 

Id like to buy used and keep the price under $1500 for the tube amp as I'm not sure I'm going to keep this combo and would like an easy resale if needed. I am willing to spend about double that if there is a really good reason to do so. 

Listening to classic rock, acoustic and some hard rock mostly. 

What info am I missing here and what should I be looking for?
Thank you bunches
Mike
128x128flavo
18 responses Add your response
tweak1
3,667 posts
 
I believe you can simply get jumpers for the mid/tweeter and bass connections, then use one amp. Of course the better Q of the jumpers...

I have ~ 3 years experience with EP KCIIs . Their overall ability to produce bass is highly dependent upon the equipment/cabling feeding them. Each step up I have made to each has rewarded me, including moving them a bit closer to the front wall, which helped a lot more than I could have imagined

Hard to believe you need more bass than the 4.7s CAN provide

Maybe that problem is the Rogue preamp, or cables/wires not going low enough with power
hth
flavo's avatar
flavo OP
40 posts
 
@tweak1 
I think my long winded question got misconstrued. I have enough bass. The bass is actually pretty lovely.  
I'm asking solely about feeding the upper 2 drivers. Do I need a tube amp that gets reviewed  as having deep articulate bass for an SET amp, or can I avoid that part altogether since the bass is taken care of with a separate amp?
tweak1
3,667 posts
 
I'm still having a problem understanding your question. What amp are you using for bass that you feel is not good for mid/tweeters?
If you go the 2 amp route you will also need an active XO
More gear = more potential mismatches/issues
tweak1
3,667 posts
 
 check this Cary Rocket 88 out. It even has XLR outs SWEET
https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649625470-cary-audio-cad-808-rocket-88-not-your-fathers-tube-amp...
avanti1960
1,480 posts
 
you will need one with at least the same gain spec as whatever amp you are going to drive the woofers with- preferably more gain and adjustable so you can level match each channel.  
rodman99999
6,158 posts
 
@flavo- No; you needn’t concern yourself, about anything below 250Hz, as the Bass amp will handle that.      What DSP/crossover did you get with those 4.7s?       Do you have the software, necessary to properly gain-match the new amps?         I recently helped a friend set up a pair of 2.4s he picked up, used (of course).      I can offer some good tips/suggestions, that will make your experience much less painful, as well as your ears happier, if you PM me.      Those speakers are capable of some surprisingly good reproduction.                             I’m not selling anything, btw.
flavo's avatar
flavo OP
40 posts
 
@tweak1 
I'm using a class d amp for the lower subwoofer. Speaking with Wally he said that this model is not able to be driven by a single amp.?
flavo's avatar
flavo OP
40 posts
 
@rodman99999 
Excellent info, thank you so much.
I have the DSP 2.4 that came with the speakers and no I don't have the software. I don't mind buying a different DSP unit or whatever else I might need. I'm coming to realize that these speakers have way more to offer then I originally experienced and would like to make them work for me in here. 

https://www.emeraldphysics.com/products/dsp-24

Walter recommended the DSpeaker anti-mode  but that's a DAC too and I'm not looking to replace my DAC.
http://www.dspeaker.com/en/products/20-dual-core.shtml
Post removed 
georgehifi's avatar
georgehifi
10,312 posts
 
flavo OP Emerald Physic EP4.7
I'm looking for warmth, air, none aggressive highs and sound stage.

 At 95db the mids and highs of these are going to be very susceptible for any noise from an amp or electronics.
I would seriously look at a linear solid state Class-A amps for the mids and highs, like the Pass Labs XA 30’s Class-A’s or for a cheaper option a Schiit Aegir Class-A. And maybe a cheap Class-D for the bass.

Cheers George
rodman99999
6,158 posts
 
@flavo-   You've got mail (check for PM).
tweak1
3,667 posts
 
the anti-mode looks interesting

How much? If the price is right, just don’t engage the dac, if that’s possible
flavo's avatar
flavo OP
40 posts
 
@tweak1  $900 for the anti-mode unit.
Walter also recommends the Driverack units from DBX. The PA2 can be had for around $300
And the Venu360 for around $400.
I'm not sure which way is the way to go. 
tweak1
3,667 posts
 
Sorry friend.

Can't help you there. I try to keep my system simple. No DSP, no streaming, no USB files that require a laptop.


Not even using a preamp, since I upgraded the power supply and incoming IEC and silver wire to the new PS and jumper bypassing the 110/220 o/o switch in my Oppo 105 connected via XLRs direct to my EVS 1200 class D dual mono IceEdge 1200AS modules and Emerald Physics KC IIs with Wire World OCC wire and Clarity Cap mods, soon to be replaced with 2.8s
rodman99999
6,158 posts
 
@flavo-      Any updates on your quest?
flavo's avatar
flavo OP
40 posts
 
@rodman99999 
Thanks for checking in.
I almost bought a DBX venu360. I've got a pro audio friend that can help me with it. But there is currently a used DSpeaker X4 for sale and I'm considering that now. I need a new pre-amp anyway. 
 The X4 makes adjustments easy which I really like. I need to learn a little more about tweaking the DBX before I make a final decision. 

The system is sounding really lovely right now, but the only way I can adjust the volume in tandem between amps is with the BLUos app on my phone. 
rodman99999
6,158 posts
 
At least you have tunes to enjoy, in the interim.       Given that you're in need of a preamp and active x-over; I'd be inclined toward the X4.                        Especially: as it's designed for home, rather than pro, audio.       Just my opinion.  
borisfom
2 posts
 
Hi Mike! Hope you were able to set your 4.7 right! You mentioned '4.7 required Bi-Amping' - was it configured this way, with separate inputs for passive crossover ? My 4.7 came in one-amp setup - which I did have to change to separate filters for bi-amping.  Also ditched MiniDSP - I listen to analog mostly and it definitely kills vinyl.I am using custom tube amp on mid/high and Yamaha CR-2040 on bass - sounds lovely. 
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