Buy LED, LCD or Plasma
Going for a new TV. Any hints, warnings or advice? It will go over the fireplace instead of the rug there now.
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Very shortly we will see more LED TVs in stores, because this seems the evolution of the LCD to lower consumption and a sleeker shape. However they are still in a 1st generation, even with various aspects of shape. The LCD on the other hand have improved more than ever image quality and correct problems as the viewing angle, the color reproduction or movement. |
Nark, No, the current U-verse box I have is IR, the RF is an add on. I did not think about repeater for IR since I had such good success with DIrectTV RF all those years. I think what you're saying is maybe use repeater IR and let it control the U-verse and the integrated (TBD) that run in wall speakers. Is it possible for the AT&T remote to do volume and mute via IR on a audio receiver or can you buy alternate code transponders so everything works together? I hope all this helps some other Audiogon member, it's a mess trying to tie this together. |
Here's the gadget. The battery replacement device goes into AT&T remote. When you use AT&T to transmit RF to U-verse box it works as normal. When you use the AT&T to transmit IR commands to Panasonic, it works in place of the stock TV controller. (These commands are mute, vol up, vol down and on / off.) When you turn volume up and down for TV, the IR controls TV (already stated) but the battery replacement device also sends RF signal to the extender box that flashes IR to the receiver sensor that will power existing in wall speakers. http://www.nextgen.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=remoteextenderplus In theory a totally seamless operation using same buttons as the other two remote in other rooms. She has nothing new to learn or change habit about. All three AT&T remotes in each room perform the same function with three TV's and enhanced sound in living room. (I hope). |
Mark, Albert- I use a Sony Rm-VL610 universal learning remote to control my system. You can program it so that the volume functions control an amp/receiver etc. But the channel buttons control your tv or cable box. It's only $30 and so far it has proven to be a pretty good one remote solution for my system. The AT&T receiver is not line of site, requires RF (radio frequency) remote to operate. The Sony remote you mention may not operate the AT&T box unless line of site and probably does not operate as IR and RF. I found a RF remote that fits inside a regular remote (like the AT&T RF) and uses radio to generate a sub signal to control a IR (infrared) sensitive device. In theory you could pair the AT&T RF with aftermarket extender that uses RF+IR. The AT&T RF would control U-verse box, AT&T remote (IR) controls the Panasonic, and the on board RF to IR converter would send commands to the (yet undisclosed) receiver. Everything from one remote, (maybe :^). |
You probably need to use HDMI outputs of TV to an inexpensive receiver with HDMI in. Then get some kind of very coherent horns and sit back 12 feet or more and enjoy real movie theater sound. I'm using Blue Ray and AT&T fiber Optic for viewing, so it makes better sense to pull signal from those two sources than the TV. The whole idea of TV output driving in wall speakers was to supply enough SPL in my room for everyday TV watching (my wife) where the TV remote would work seamlessly. I just sold an HDMI receiver here at Audiogon, a Marantz. |
Albert- I use a Sony Rm-VL610 universal learning remote to control my system. You can program it so that the volume functions control an amp/receiver etc. But the channel buttons control your tv or cable box. It's only $30 and so far it has proven to be a pretty good one remote solution for my system. My only complaint is that it's preprogrammed panasonic tv codes did not work well with the S1 and I had to learn commands from the tv remote. Not a big deal really though. If you have more $$ to spend there are other remotes that use USB to get codes from your computer, which sounds easier to me. Mark |
You probably need to use HDMI outputs of TV to an inexpensive receiver with HDMI in. Then get some kind of very coherent horns and sit back 12 feet or more and enjoy real movie theater sound. I passed on the S series due to lack of analog audio outputs. My G10 runs to a JRDG Capri preamp which does not accept HDMI. There is a thread on Audio Circle now about choosing an HDMI receiver. |
My wife is the main TV watcher, that option would require two remote controls. I bought a U-verse RF remote because the AT&T box is hidden. That same remote will run the Panasonic IR controls. Maybe I can program an IR extender to control the (not yet purchased) integrated. You did make me think about this some more. It will be easier once I get the TV and read over everything. |
Mhedges, Yep, I found that out. The Panasonic has not been delivered so I did not have owners book but got an answer from Panasonic help line. Looks like no way for the TV remote to control their own speakers plus another pair in the room. Seems like for a screen that large, that would be an attractive option. I was going to buy a cheap two channel integrated, set the volume where it balanced nicely with the TV speakers and then control all with TV remote. Any other way would mute the TV but not the alternate speakers, bad idea for broadcast since they flood us with commercials and the more expensive V10 Panasonic with digital and analog outputs has same limitations. |
Learsfool, you summed up nicely what convinced me to go for the Panasonic 65". That and I cannot justify several thousand dollars more for the Pioneer, even if it is better. I'm really a two channel audio guy, the TV is for my wife and when I watch I want it to be good, but perfection is not required. At $2295.00 for the 65" Panasonic it's a good deal and I got the Sencore pro calibration in a package with it. The TV is installed Monday and they come back to calibrate 4 weeks later after it's settled in. My only fear is the built in speakers will probably struggle to fill my space. The Panasonic TC-P65S1 has only one optical digital sound output and I don't know yet if that's controlled (like built in speakers) via remote. If the optical is controlled at the same time as the remote, I can run a digital Coax to an amp and power my in wall speakers. |
Albert, hope you enjoy your Panasonic plasma. I bought one a year ago now and really love it. I would strongly recommend that you have it professionally calibrated after the first two hundred hours of viewing. I could not believe the difference this made, and I paid close attention so I could do it again myself now if I want to tweak it in the future. Kijanki, the viewing distance charts are important if only because they make the viewing so much easier on your eyes. I was skeptical of this until I experienced the difference myself. I have a 50" that I sit about 8 to 9 feet away from, so I am at the minimum end of the guideline, but I can't believe how much easier the bigger screen is on the eyes. Plasma was the choice for me over LCD for several reasons - most important, they have MUCH better blacks, and I watch alot of art films and classic films so this is important to me. Also, the picture looks correct no matter what angle you are sitting at, unlike LCD's, where you have to be centered to the picture for it to look correct. I also watch alot of soccer and basketball, and these quick moving sports look much better on plasmas than on LCD's. Don't remember the technical reason for this, though it was explained to me at one point. Basically, the only disadvantage is they do use more power. In every other respect, I find them superior to LCD. I don't ever have the problem of light shining directly on it, though even if you did, you can have it calibrated one way during the daytime, and another way at night, so this is not really an issue. |
"Not that many people actually repair electronics these days, but something to consider." Yes it is. Best Buy has repair facility that is able to replace bad parts (fixed my CRT TV). The problem is that boards are SMT and ICs are very difficult or impossible to replace. Only way to fix it is to replace whole board that might be not available after a while. |
I agree with you guys, went for the Panasonic TC-65S1 at $2295.00. I went back to BB today and compared the picture again, the less expensive Panasonic is so close it's not worth the extra money for the V10. Funny thing is, after I paid I was speaking to the manager, who sold me the TV and he said the calibration was way more important than the difference in the two Panasonic 65". Went on to say that the cheaper one with calibration would beat the more expensive one without. Calibration is free with the $3995.00 65" Panasonic but found an in store deal where calibration comes with the less expensive one too. Between that, free delivery and $250.00 custom install I feel like this was a smart move. Macrojack mentioned an AVS Forum member mounting his TV and it went into the floor. That thought crossed my mind, that and the fear that lifting 140 pounds over my head could lead to personal injury as well as broken Plasma, the BB install is looking very fairly priced. Last thing, after I signed the form the manager ask if I knew about Reward Zone, I assumed a big sales pitch was coming and braced myself. I was wrong, got handed $65.00 credit to "spend" at BB. Unless they screw it up, I'm feeling reasonably good about this and sincerely appreciate everyone pitching in. |
Let me add a little more here.A lot of the upper end sets may produce better pictures on standard def pictures too.A lot of what we watch is still in standard def.Standard def looks bad on a high def set I imagine because they're engineered around hi def.I don't even know if older made for TV shows are capable of being displayed in true hi def.When I shop for one,I look at what the set will do for making standard def look better. Hopefully you could check this out in the store.One BB doesn't have any source in my area for st def,but the others do pickup the local channels which always has something showing in standard def to compare them.Hope this helps some. |
On Audio Circle a guy named Joshk tells of anchoring his 58 inch panny plasma into bricks above his fireplace. The whole mess crashed and was destroyed. He's selling a large, high dollar swivel mount at a big discount if you are interested. By the way, the V-10 is the same display as the G-10. Only differences involve cinema playback and calibration versatility. I bought G-10 because I don't value those things enough to justify the $800 difference. I must be losing my anality as I age. |
Unsound, I'm seriously thinking the same thing, I hate to spend that much but the 65" is probably more suited to the distance from seating and as someone in this thread wrote, you never wish you had gone smaller. Chazro, Panasonic is rated for 80,000 hours. Even at 8 hours a day it will be out of date technology and disposed of before I hit that mark. The new plasmas use less energy than earlier models but certainly not as efficient as LCD LED. Ah-nold is right about that. Marcojack, I was desperately looking for wireless because of what you mention. The LG has some problems if not line of sight and the Panasonic only goes to 50" which is smaller than my current 55". BB offered me an open box Pioneer Elite 60", I don't know how many hours are on it, 60" and they want $3800.00. However with same program material on Panasonic a and Elite Pioneer Plasmas, there was precious little difference. Panasonic is new in the box, $200.00 more money but 65". BB is offering free delivery, free calibration and discount wall mount for a short time. I'm probably going to have to make a decision soon so I can take advantage of this. Everyone says a good set up of one of these Plasmas makes for a big upgrade. |
I have a Panasonic TC-P50G10 hanging on my wall. The TV is great but if I could have spent $3995, I would have moved up to the Panasonic Z-1. It comes in only one size presently (54 inch) but it is lightweight and only 1 inch thick. The reason I recommend this one to you is the wireless setup. Fishing a half dozen wires through your wall can be a major pain. With the Z-1, all you need on the wall is an AC outlet (use a Porter Port). The rest of your stuff plugs into a box on your equipment rack that communicates with the monitor wirelessly. By the way, this set is basically a wireless version of the V-10. |
Unsound, I understand that recommendation but based on that calculator my current 55" TV just a few feet away from seating position should be between 70" and 77". Mounting above the fireplace, the recommended screen size is between 118" and 125". According to Google, there are only a few flat screens that large and they start about $100,000.00. I know a front projector can go that large but won't work due to the large skylights I already mentioned Do you know of something I'm missing? |
Please check out the Samsung UN46B600 or the UN55B8000 and the new wall mount WMN1000b. Is it a flat screen or is it a picture frame? Yes, it's about 1 1/2 " flat and the wall mount is abt another 1" from the dry wall. Better yet, the home gallery media will allow you to set you TV as a giant screen saver filled with awesome pictures and music. |
I am also going to say "Plasma". I bought a Panasonic TH-42PZ77U Back In 2007...... And after three years of use, so far I haven't been disappointed...... If you are a Movie Buff or a Sports Connoisseur, Plasma is the ONLY way to go Panasonic and Pioneer are the class when it comes to Plasma TV. Pioneer is on the way out from what I understand. So, if you want a Pioneer Kuro, or a Pioneer Elite Kuro, you better get yours now before it's too late. Because after Pioneer ceases their Plasma TV Operation, the only brands that will be left after that will be Panasonic, LG and Samsung. Good Luck and Happy Shopping.... --Charles-- |