The Pioneer KRP-500M Plasma is the would's best HDTV right now...
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"Not that many people actually repair electronics these days, but something to consider." Yes it is. Best Buy has repair facility that is able to replace bad parts (fixed my CRT TV). The problem is that boards are SMT and ICs are very difficult or impossible to replace. Only way to fix it is to replace whole board that might be not available after a while. |
Albert, hope you enjoy your Panasonic plasma. I bought one a year ago now and really love it. I would strongly recommend that you have it professionally calibrated after the first two hundred hours of viewing. I could not believe the difference this made, and I paid close attention so I could do it again myself now if I want to tweak it in the future. Kijanki, the viewing distance charts are important if only because they make the viewing so much easier on your eyes. I was skeptical of this until I experienced the difference myself. I have a 50" that I sit about 8 to 9 feet away from, so I am at the minimum end of the guideline, but I can't believe how much easier the bigger screen is on the eyes. Plasma was the choice for me over LCD for several reasons - most important, they have MUCH better blacks, and I watch alot of art films and classic films so this is important to me. Also, the picture looks correct no matter what angle you are sitting at, unlike LCD's, where you have to be centered to the picture for it to look correct. I also watch alot of soccer and basketball, and these quick moving sports look much better on plasmas than on LCD's. Don't remember the technical reason for this, though it was explained to me at one point. Basically, the only disadvantage is they do use more power. In every other respect, I find them superior to LCD. I don't ever have the problem of light shining directly on it, though even if you did, you can have it calibrated one way during the daytime, and another way at night, so this is not really an issue. |
Learsfool, you summed up nicely what convinced me to go for the Panasonic 65". That and I cannot justify several thousand dollars more for the Pioneer, even if it is better. I'm really a two channel audio guy, the TV is for my wife and when I watch I want it to be good, but perfection is not required. At $2295.00 for the 65" Panasonic it's a good deal and I got the Sencore pro calibration in a package with it. The TV is installed Monday and they come back to calibrate 4 weeks later after it's settled in. My only fear is the built in speakers will probably struggle to fill my space. The Panasonic TC-P65S1 has only one optical digital sound output and I don't know yet if that's controlled (like built in speakers) via remote. If the optical is controlled at the same time as the remote, I can run a digital Coax to an amp and power my in wall speakers. |
Mhedges, Yep, I found that out. The Panasonic has not been delivered so I did not have owners book but got an answer from Panasonic help line. Looks like no way for the TV remote to control their own speakers plus another pair in the room. Seems like for a screen that large, that would be an attractive option. I was going to buy a cheap two channel integrated, set the volume where it balanced nicely with the TV speakers and then control all with TV remote. Any other way would mute the TV but not the alternate speakers, bad idea for broadcast since they flood us with commercials and the more expensive V10 Panasonic with digital and analog outputs has same limitations. |
My wife is the main TV watcher, that option would require two remote controls. I bought a U-verse RF remote because the AT&T box is hidden. That same remote will run the Panasonic IR controls. Maybe I can program an IR extender to control the (not yet purchased) integrated. You did make me think about this some more. It will be easier once I get the TV and read over everything. |
You probably need to use HDMI outputs of TV to an inexpensive receiver with HDMI in. Then get some kind of very coherent horns and sit back 12 feet or more and enjoy real movie theater sound. I passed on the S series due to lack of analog audio outputs. My G10 runs to a JRDG Capri preamp which does not accept HDMI. There is a thread on Audio Circle now about choosing an HDMI receiver. |
Albert- I use a Sony Rm-VL610 universal learning remote to control my system. You can program it so that the volume functions control an amp/receiver etc. But the channel buttons control your tv or cable box. It's only $30 and so far it has proven to be a pretty good one remote solution for my system. My only complaint is that it's preprogrammed panasonic tv codes did not work well with the S1 and I had to learn commands from the tv remote. Not a big deal really though. If you have more $$ to spend there are other remotes that use USB to get codes from your computer, which sounds easier to me. Mark |
You probably need to use HDMI outputs of TV to an inexpensive receiver with HDMI in. Then get some kind of very coherent horns and sit back 12 feet or more and enjoy real movie theater sound. I'm using Blue Ray and AT&T fiber Optic for viewing, so it makes better sense to pull signal from those two sources than the TV. The whole idea of TV output driving in wall speakers was to supply enough SPL in my room for everyday TV watching (my wife) where the TV remote would work seamlessly. I just sold an HDMI receiver here at Audiogon, a Marantz. |
Mark, Albert- I use a Sony Rm-VL610 universal learning remote to control my system. You can program it so that the volume functions control an amp/receiver etc. But the channel buttons control your tv or cable box. It's only $30 and so far it has proven to be a pretty good one remote solution for my system. The AT&T receiver is not line of site, requires RF (radio frequency) remote to operate. The Sony remote you mention may not operate the AT&T box unless line of site and probably does not operate as IR and RF. I found a RF remote that fits inside a regular remote (like the AT&T RF) and uses radio to generate a sub signal to control a IR (infrared) sensitive device. In theory you could pair the AT&T RF with aftermarket extender that uses RF+IR. The AT&T RF would control U-verse box, AT&T remote (IR) controls the Panasonic, and the on board RF to IR converter would send commands to the (yet undisclosed) receiver. Everything from one remote, (maybe :^). |
Here's the gadget. The battery replacement device goes into AT&T remote. When you use AT&T to transmit RF to U-verse box it works as normal. When you use the AT&T to transmit IR commands to Panasonic, it works in place of the stock TV controller. (These commands are mute, vol up, vol down and on / off.) When you turn volume up and down for TV, the IR controls TV (already stated) but the battery replacement device also sends RF signal to the extender box that flashes IR to the receiver sensor that will power existing in wall speakers. http://www.nextgen.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=remoteextenderplus In theory a totally seamless operation using same buttons as the other two remote in other rooms. She has nothing new to learn or change habit about. All three AT&T remotes in each room perform the same function with three TV's and enhanced sound in living room. (I hope). |
Nark, No, the current U-verse box I have is IR, the RF is an add on. I did not think about repeater for IR since I had such good success with DIrectTV RF all those years. I think what you're saying is maybe use repeater IR and let it control the U-verse and the integrated (TBD) that run in wall speakers. Is it possible for the AT&T remote to do volume and mute via IR on a audio receiver or can you buy alternate code transponders so everything works together? I hope all this helps some other Audiogon member, it's a mess trying to tie this together. |
Very shortly we will see more LED TVs in stores, because this seems the evolution of the LCD to lower consumption and a sleeker shape. However they are still in a 1st generation, even with various aspects of shape. The LCD on the other hand have improved more than ever image quality and correct problems as the viewing angle, the color reproduction or movement. |