Bargain interconnects to tame treble & boost bass?
Here's the system: Sony DVP-NS755V Audioquest Alpha Snake Bryston B60R Kimber 4TC / 8TC bi-wire Triangle Heliade ES
Problem: Sound tilted way toward top-end.
I've done about as much as I can in speaker placement and room adjustments, but the system still sounds too bright and too bass-shy. The treble is also a problem when running the television sound (digital cable) through the system, so, while I recognize that the DVD / CD player is not the best, I don't think it is the primary culprit. (I do plan to upgrade the CD player eventually.)
I sort of suspect that the ultimate solution would be either to replace the amp with a tube amp or to replace the speakers. But both are recent purchases, so I would like to see if better interconnects might make a difference.
Are there interconnects for $200 or less (for 1m), new or used, that would help solve my system's problems? I am open to any other suggestions you might have. Thanks.
OK, next question... Does the Behringer DEQ2496 only produce sound when operated in bypass mode when both inputs and outputs are in the analog domain? I must have tried every conceivable configuration over a 2 hour period last night, and was only able to get sound when I operated in "Bypass All" mode.
Must I use digital input in order to EQ the sound, without a microphone/RTA?
Initial impressions are that in "Bypass All" mode, the sound does lose a bit as compared to not having the unit in place - most noticeable is a shaving off of some bass heft and weight - which conceivably could be added back in via EQ. A slight amount of noise and hiss is added in, but nothing akin to a normal equalizer, and presuming I can tailor the sound to my tastes/room, I could live with it.
Trelja...Are you using analog or digital input? On the I/O menu make sure the proper one is selected. If you are using digital you must configure the Behringer for the appropriate sample rate (I/O menu again). If the sample rate is wrong the outputs will be muted.
My unit is dead quiet. The S/N spec is 113 dB. You probably have too much gain following the Behringer. Remember this is a pro sound unit and likes to run at higher line level than the typical home audio equipment. A low level input will also result in not using all the 24 bits of the converters, which probably affects sound quality. Are you using single ended or balanced interconnects? I use single ended for input and balanced for output. If you use single ended make sure that the (-) pin is grounded.
I understand your frustration! This is a very complex and flexible unit, which is good, but it does take a while to figure out how to use it. The real fun will start when you get the mic.
Eldartford, I got the unit working for me last night. Like a complete and total IDIOT, I had the inputs going to my integrated, and outputs going to my CD player. After a couple of minutes of playing around, only being able to get output in "Bypass All" mode, I checked the cables, fixed the stupid mistake, and all worked perfectly afterwards.
Funny that I spent all my initial effort on the female XLR adapter for the outputs, and ended up routing the cables to the wrong place. The inputs are a pair of ICs with RCAs on the output of the CDP and male XLRs into the Behringer. From the outputs of the Behringer, I have a Cardas female XLR - female RCA adapter, then a pair of ICs, with RCAs on each end running into the integrated.
I didn't spend enough time afterwards to gauge the sound, but I was able to change things via the DEQ operation, which left me as pleased as punch as it's the goal of an EQ device. Tonight, I'll sit down and listen more critically, and try to ascertain its effects sonically. After that, I'll switch out the integrated and install the AtmaSphere monos. I have a different pair of male RCA - male XLR cables that'll go right into the Atmas. The CDP is variable out via the tube output - currently set at the 11 O'Clock position.
Nothing is being overdriven or underdriven in my opinion, and so far I've listened at quite low levels. My impressions of the sound in "Bypass All" mode are that I agree that the unit is dead quiet, it's just not 100% transparent. I hope that distinction is not lost on anyone. Along with the aforementioned minor reduction - I'm talking very slight, and totally correctable via a bit of EQ I'll add in later. In DEQ mode, it seemed the additional circuitry made itself known even moreso, but I don't want to say too much yet.
Please understand that the level of resolution I have is such that changes in cabling, tubes, etc. are instantly apparent, and this is no different. Still, it's night and day better than any other equalizer I've ever tried. It also easily, and I do mean easily, eclipses any preamp (Blue Circle, Cary, CAT, Joule, Jeff Rowland) I have installed in terms of transparency, detail, resolution, dynamics, etc. - unlike any preamp I have tried, it did a far, far, far better job of not adding or taking away anything to or from the sound.
I'm waiting on the ECM8000 microphone you recommended (Thank you!), and if the room EQ functionality can fix the issues I have had in there, which room treatments helped with, but did not solve, I'll be as big a proponent of the Behringer DEQ2496 as you are. Over the past four years, I have tried all manner of cabling, tubes, CD players, preamplifiers, power amplifiers, and speakers before coming to the conclusion that the room is the issue - and the most important link in the audio chain. So many of us have MAJOR room issues (I have one excellent room, and this lousy room), including a guy I know who is considered one of the biggest gurus in audio, that finding a component that can correct the problems is a far more important purchase than any room treatment, cable, preamp, or front end source.
Trelja...It took me months of fiddling around to learn how to set up and use the DEC2496. And I are a engineer!
The line level setting is one thing that I found very important, but which many users probably don't bother with. You can monitor the input (electrical) levels using the METER mode. It will, among other things, log the maximum level seen during the course of playing a CD. The procedure I used is as follows. It applies when the Behringer is between the preamp and the power amp, and is cited to illustrate the basic idea. (If you use the digital input this may not be necessary).
1..Mute, or turn off, the power amp. 2..Play a CD that includes some loud parts. (I actually used a test CD put out out by Denon that includes test signals at specific levels like -20dB). 3..Crank up the volume control until the level runs around -20 dB on the green LEDs. (Remember this is dB down from the 0 dB reference). If you use the Denon test CD this -20dB setting can be done exactly. 4..Back off the volume control a bit, and then turn up the power amp gain to what you think is loud.
In my system this setup procedure results in typical music signal running about -20 dB much of the time, and the peak for a whole CD being -6dB or less for both channels. I never see CLIP. However you do the setup, this should be the goal. The basic idea is to make the MSB (bit 16) of a CD correspond to the MSB (bit 24) of the Behringer. Hopefully this will happen automatically if you use the digital input.
Yes, a lot of subletys to the DEQ2496, Eldartford. Thanks for making my learning curve a lot shorter! It always pays to follow someone who has already conquered the learning curve.
Last night, I spent a good amount of time with the Behringer, first with the integrated, then my monoblocks. After listening, I must say you are right, the active EQ seems to add nothing more than the "Bypass All" functionality, which is a true accomplishment. No, it's not 100% of what is going into the unit, but it's sooo close, I can think of no high end audio preamp that even gets within the same area code as the Behringer.
With the Atmas, I was able to dial in a bit more upper bass, while cutting back on things a bit around the crossover of my loudspeakers and smoothing out the sound. Now I just need the microphone so I can run the curve of the room, and have the unit apply the appropriate compensation.
Seems like the Behringer is going to be staying, and it will hopefully cure my room anomalies. Right now, I can't think of too much available in today's high end market at $300 that will solve more problems than the Behringer. Problems that many an audiophile aren't aware of, ignore, deny, or go to a lot of trouble to apply room treatments that may create as many issues as they solve. If things continue to progress as they are, the Behringer DEQ2496 is certainly going to have my recommendation.
Tvad, just an FYI, but while using the DEQ2496, you should definitely try using it with it's stock power cord first. That eq was one of only 2 pieces of gear I've ever heard that didn't sound better with an aftermarket PC. Also, be aware of it's high output level with the back-panel switch set to +22 db. It may very well cause overload distortion in whatever you feed it into. Unfortunately, I found the lower-output setting to sound really inferior.
An issue came up with ordering the microphone from a local dealer near me. They're giving me a refund, but I still don't have the microphone. So, while I'm still feeling the Behringer is the right move, I won't know for sure until I get the microphone, and can run a sweep of the room. To be honest, I've been putting my focus into the other system downstairs as of late.
I'm using two interconnects which each feature RCA connectors on one end, and XLR on the other. One pair is a 1.5 m Stealth, featuring silver ribbon, the other is MAS Grey, which are also silver. I also got REALLY lucky at the time, and found an Audiogon buddy here selling 3 pairs of Cardas XLR - RCA adapters, both the male and female, so that was nice.
I'm curious as to your reaction on the Behringer...
I have an extra 1M pair of MAS Black I'll sell you cheap. Email me if interested.
Just for the record, the best location I have found for the MAS Black is on the CD player. I prefer it to the Grey(silver) version. It just didn't sound right from pre to amp, but from audio out on CDp to pre the Black can put to shame many very expensive cables. It is a shame they don't make them anymore. Sherod
Sherod/Grant, what is the difference between MAS Black and Grey?
I picked up the Grey at the same time John sold me the 3 Cardas adapters (boy, was I at the right place at the right time for those adapters!?!). The MAS was more or less a throw-in, and a no brainer, as you never know when a cable with such a good reputation, having both RCA and XLR terminations, will come in handy. Truthfully, I haven't sat down to evaluate the MAS Grey on its own yet, to be able to know what it actually sounds like.
As much as I wanted to like the MAS Grey it just never sounded right to my ears. Even after being fully broken in, the sound was very clean and fast, but the tonal balance was always tilted up and the extreme highs just had a bit too much energy to them. To my ears, in my system, on my CD player, the MAS Black( formerly the MAS Musiclink) is just more balanced and natural sounding. But this is just IMHO and YMMV. There are better cables today since the MAS Black came out quite some time ago, but even today, in the right system, the little MAS Black will still put to shame many very expensive( and overpriced) interconnects.I still have a pair on my CD player in my bedroom system and always keep a couple pair spare for emergencies and comparisons.
By the way, I believe the MAS Black has silver/plated copper conductors.
Thank you for the clarification, Grant. Makes sense...
Sherod, your feelings are classic "silver versus copper" debate. There's not a lot that can be added to what you said, except my own experiences. For a time, I liked adding silver in, and at a certain point, a threshold was reached where it became too much. Yes, it did all of these things that looked great on paper, yet I could never sit down and fully relax while listening. One day, I switched out the silver loudspeaker cables for copper, and there was peace. I learned an important lesson. Depending on system and personal tastes, silver or copper will be better. I've really come to appreciate the liquidity and warmth of copper.
I tend to hear silver plated copper exhibiting a lot of the characteristics of silver. Sort of a poor man's silver cable, though I'm sure some cable company who markets this kind of product for mega bucks will jump on me for saying this.
Since you ask for" budget" ICs opinions, evidentally you are not ready to switch your new bought components, I would recommend replace your kimber 4tc& 8tc even thought they are good speaker cables but bright.I used budget Ics from : Harmonic tech, Audioquest,Kimber for my Krell 400xi. Kimber PBJ ICs as well 4ct and 8ct speaker cables are beautiful in high frequency for dark systems but can bleed your ears with bright system as your Bryston,Triangle and Sony. I would try Kimber Hero ( 160.00 1 meter). Warning: very dark at first but after brake-in period will smooth the low out) then move on to speaker cables . PS audio allows 30 days free trial for their PS Xstream statement. Best wish.
Since you ask for ICs opinions, evidentally you are not ready to switch your new bought components, I would recommend replace your kimber 4tc& 8tc even thought they are good speaker cables but bright.I used budget Ics from : Harmonic tech, Audioquest,Kimber for my Krell 400xi. Kimber PBJ ICs as well 4ct and 8ct speaker cables are beautiful in high frequency for dark systems but can bleed your ears with bright system as your Bryston,Triangle and Sony. I would try Kimber Hero ( 160.00 1 meter). Warning: very dark at first but after brake-in period will smooth the low out) then move on to speaker cables . PS audio allows 30 days free trial for their PS Xstream statement. Best wish.
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