Auris tonearm upgrade for Sota Moonbeam?

I didn't realize that there was no standard configuration for the pins on cartridges, that's funny after all these years, to learn this.

The headshell wires from Sota have a small tip of bare wire which has been soldered to the clip, and the rest of the wire is insulated, so the tiny bit of fine wire really wants to break off from the solder since it is trapped there with no flexibility.  I see how some glue could help the situation.

Respectfully disagree, the reason for having four wires, rather than a single connector, is that there is no standard for the distance between the pins on a cartridge, and even more confounding, there is quite a variation in the diameter of the pins on various cartridges, which means that one needs to have a way to adjust the size of the hole in the connector. Some pins are even offset, in almost a diamond pattern, such as Shure and ADC, while others are in a square pattern. 

If I may make a suggestion, when you have the headshell wires disconnected, put a bit of Elmer’s white glue on a toothpick and put a generous drop of it right at the point where the connector is attached to each wire, and let it thoroughly dry. You will minimize the likelihood of breaking off the wires when reattaching them, or changing cartridges. Be sure not to use any adhesives that are reactive with metal or plastics.

Now some may argue that this will change the dialelectric properties of the insulator, but the benefits would, IMHO, outweigh any such concerns. Good luck.

@safulop1 ​Why do we have to connect individual wires to the four pins when a plug would make more sense?

I would suspect b/c of weight. ​​​​​​

The thing that puzzles me about the standard way to connect a cartridge, is that the cartridges themselves have four pins arrayed in a block.  This seems perfect to be mated to... I don't know... a plug?  Why do we have to connect individual wires to the four pins when a plug would make more sense?

I have owned 6 OL arms including my current Enterprise and Conqueror on an OL table.  I started with OL many years ago with an original Silver.  I have mounted many cartridges on each of the arms without any issue of a broken wire.  Yes they are delicate but that does not mean the have a flaw from their construction.

Yes I saw that; I would consider the screw holes to be an appropriate indicator of the upgrade, so probably wouldn't cover them up.

Can you tell me how the cartridge gets connected to the Origin arm?  The Rega/Sota arm has the tiny brass clips soldered on the ends of the wiring, and I was reading the Origin website material about the importance of connections and not using brass etc.  Also those solder joints are extremely hard on the wires and they tend to break every time a cartridge is removed and replaced.

I have an OL Silver 3a on my Basis, the only rub is the OL arms mount with a central pillar and bolt, exactly like the older Rega arms. If your arm has the modern 3 screw base, OL makes a very inexpensive vanity plate that will cover those screw holes.

Yeah I'm thinking about an Origin Silver now, thanks for the ideas.  They say they are drop-in replacements for all Rega arms.

222mm+/-2mm is a pretty popular P2S distance for nominal 9-inch tonearms, so there are probably many that would fit with a little finagling.

The Origin Live tonearms have the same mounting distance as Rega.

Oops, never mind.  I just found the specs for my Moonbeam have 222 mm from spindle to armhole mount, while the Auris is 211 mm according to this.

https://positive-feedback.com/reviews/hardware-reviews/auris-audio-bayadere-3-turntable/