Are there any issues with connecting speaker wire in this manner?

I've yet to see anyone run the numbers on skin effect on speaker cables and show a significant difference in audio frequencies.

waytoomuchstuff:  thank you for responding to ktarver's post.  I had wanted to but just couldn't get motivated.  As to your 1st response, I've been using speaker cable that is 7 solid core 18awg silver plated copper wires per leg without termination for years.  The Red Dragon S-500's are the first amps I've used without the center pin drilled for bare wire.  The wire is big enough that it fits nicely as if they were banana plugs.  It's not a tight fit, just snug, but that's what I've been doing ever since I received the Red Dragon amps.  I never move speaker cables unless I am forced to move the speakers.  I was one of those fools that spent big bucks (back then) to get the huge Monster Cables banana plugs and, soundwise, they sucked!  That's when I discovered less can be more in audio.  Thanks!

So I see that I have at least got some of you to start thinking and respond.   So for you naysayers, I understand why you don’t understand skin effects of conductors but it’s a matter of physics and electron flow on the outside surfaces of the conductor.  As frequencies increase, current flow increases on the outside (skin) of a conductor.  Much better to have multiple conductors (i.e. stranded wire) to increase the overall surface area as the inner areas of the conductor carries very little of the current flow.  Im an EE that has had to deal with this my entire career.  From a purely practical perspective, a large enough single conductor (solid wire) has enough surface area to not restrict flow much.  It’s all a matter of resistance to how much current is being conducted.  

@Icherepkai, I applaud your experimental efforts. I use solid core for just about everything simply because I find it superior to stranded. I have Harmonic Technology Pro 9 speaker cables which use different sized solid cores and these are my reference.

Your suggestion to wrap and twist 14AWG is fine at amp side but a little more difficult at the speaker end. Let me suggest finding a rod the same size as the binding post diameter (I select-from my set of drill bits) tightly twisting the 2 wires about 50mm from the end using 2 pairs of pliers to do this then splaying them apart and forming them tightly around the bit and twisting again with pliers which now resembles a lug but without any soldering or additional random pieces of metal. I place a copper washer over the post and tighten against that to prevent deforming the ’lug’ For Cu. washers I visit auto suppliers for a close fitting annealed soft Cu. washer. These are used on diesel injectors and are pure Cu. The Cu. washers from hardware stores are mass produced by stamping and are manufactured from dubious quality metal and partially hardened during the stamping process. Once firmly tightened the excess wire on the final twist can be neatly trimmed leaving about 10mm to maintain integrity. Hope I’ve explained that clearly. Some advocate soldering the lug so formed but I strongly disagree because you are essentially creating a failed solder joint whilst introducing unnecessary and unwelcome extra metals into the connection.

Pliers: I superglue pieces of leather in the jaws to protect the wire when twisting.

On my speakers and amps I take it further by bringing the wires from the XO or amp modules outside the box or chassis to a pure Cu. lug and place the speaker wire in an identical lug, mating them back to back and tightening securely. This IMO is the closest second best to an inconvenient direct connection. Sure, this will void any guarantee but my speakers and amps are DIY

One more point, you mentioned running 7 solid core wires together. If they are not individually insulated then you are back to a stranded cable.

Regards listening blind or sighted I approach this another way which IMO provides a better grasp of any difference. Simply listen for at least a week before swapping, so allowing you to relax with the music and determine which entertains the most whilst fatiguing the least.

Very keen to hear results of the unusual metals as speaker cables. A higher DCR (lower IACS) is not an issue.

lemonhaze:  You've given some very good and specific instructions which are so hard to come by.  And wrapping the end of pliers in leather, that's one of those life hacks that should have been common sense.  At the speaker end though, I'm good.  I've run the wire directly from the crossover THROUGH the binding posts.  Their only purpose is to hold the speaker cable directly onto the wire coming from the crossover.  I am considering building a short power cord using the niobium wire first as it would require a lot less wire and I really don't know how it will sound as speaker cable, of which I'll need about 24 meters so.... Maybe a meter long power cord would be the wiser first project.  And I'm finding that the molybdenum slugs I had cut recently are finally burning in completely (assumption here) as they are really sounding fine so might try to incorporate a run of that in the mix as well.  Thank you very much for sharing.  Lot's of good info here