A not sarcastic question for the power conditioner/upgraded power cord folks

holy crap @chuck that must be one the longest posts I have ever seen- good stuff! 

I am not arguing with what’s in that post, but I think it’s a cut and paste from something I remember seeing somewhere else recently. The Absolute Sound, maybe?

And as far as what it says, I won’t argue with anything become I am a pure ignorant novice on this stuff, but I cannot help but feel that a dedicated run of 12-2 (although 10-2 may be better) has got to be superior to running your audio off the same circuit all sorts of other household stuff is on.

Yes, you are correct, I am giving him the credit for someone else’s work. it is from Absolute Sound. Sources should always be made clear if posts are not original.

I have 10 gauge on a dedicated line but it has been so long ago I can’t recall a huge difference putting it in, but for sure it is one of the first things an audiophile should do. If one had a long run from their panel to the hifi they would have to be pretty "dedicated" to use 6 gauge, then drop it down to 10 gauge in order to fit it in the receptacle, but many audiophiles have spent more money on things that probably have less benefit on the sound quality.

In line with this thread though, I am confused why you need 3m power cords though- most people have the components close to the outlet or power conditioner and have longer interconnects to the amps, or longer speaker cables.

Which doesn’t preclude me from moving my dedicated circuit outlets up a couple of feet, and I suppose I probably will,

I wouldn’t, but it is your house (I hope?) After re-reading this thread if that is easiest then yes do it. I think alot of us who use power conditioners have it within 1-2m of the components, and then if you need a longer power cord to go from the wall to the conditioner you buy just one longer power cord. 

with a 2 meter run my amp is all that I can get straight into the wall. So right now, I am forced to use my glorified strip to plug the pre and cdp into. Problem 2 is that I cannot upgrade the pc to the glorified strip, because although it appears to be a very nice braided pc, it is hardwired in.

....but I found that I couldn’t reach the wall from my CDP or my pre with only two meters.

Sounds like you are fixed into your components needing to be in a rack? A tall one? Do they need to be? I don’t have a rack- I have platforms- so I don’t have that issue.

but I was curious as to the opinions about the limitations of a power conditioners power cord.

From my experience going direct to the Furutech GTX with the Coda amp instead of going through the Puritan PSM 156 had no difference, so I left the amp plugged into the Puritan. I haven’t tried with this Coincident Frankenstein amp yet though.

And replacing the 20 amp Puritan Ultimate power cord that feeds the PSM156 from the wall to a Shunyata SigmaV2 improved the sound quite a bit. It is the most important power cord, and should be your best, so IMO there is no "limitation for a power conditioners power cord" unless you are using an inferior one, or maybe one that is not up to the level of the others.

If you still have some OEM power cords you will probably notice the biggest difference once you have replaced the last OEM power cord in your system- once the "weakest link in the chain" or "the bottleneck" is swapped out to one that built properly is when the improvements of all of them become most noticeable. Not just about gauge, but EMI shielding, and your own components from contaminating the others with noise.

I think that is why some people replace just one OEM power cord with a $300 one and don’t hear that much of a difference, it is not only because their components are lower level, but they are still hearing the degradation of all of the other OEM power cords and interconnects in their system.

@ghdprentice 

That is in line with the above article, and I believe that is @audphile1's philosophy as well. Are your 2 lines on the same phase? 

I really like that article- after most points he says "Again, use your ears to decide." 

I never thought of twisting the romex, I believe it is already, but a few more twists sure wouldn't hurt. 

And going to have to find some silver paste!

Is he referring to the neutral/ground bar?

All the busbars- neutral, hot and ground. The breakers will snap into the busbar, you want paste between the two, so you just need to paste the breaker contacts.

Likewise if one wants paste in their receptacle you don’t need to squeeze paste under the screws into the clamps, just paste the wire and there will be paste between wire and clamp. If you are going to this extent take some emery cloth and clean the oxidation off the copper wire ends first. 

I know they pasted the aluminum cable that enters the new 200 amp panel I had installed a few years ago, but that would be antioxidant paste one needs to do when connecting aluminum to copper. Here BC Hydro does not use copper cable from the street/pole to new houses anymore, they use aluminum.

I am not sure where to put the junction box? I guess you would have to cut the dry wall out and mount the box to a stud close to the outlet, kind of like in new construction and then patch some new dry wall in?

Yeah, but as long as you have accessible cover on it, and not buried behind drywall. Think of it like a sub-panel mounted inside the stud cavity. Yeah, could be fugly. I think 10 gauge is more than sufficient.

Which will put me back up in the attic again, which is my lest favorite plaace in this house, 

I hear ya; wear a dust mask. 

@chuck I see the article was produced back in 2016 and updated since. Quite the sound room they have at MSB- I am sure every one of those suggestions were employed in the construction of this room. I've often wondered how does one know when to stop with the absorption and diffusion treatments? 

Yeah who knows; hospitals are great places to pick up strange stuff. And It's amazing all the hazardous materials our older buildings were made from, like lead and asbestos, not to mention what else may be up in attics: Mold, other spores, feces from rodents and birds, and some have disturbed some old bat dung and got some really nasty complications. Better safe than sorry as they say! I need to get a better respirator on that note, those dust masks only block about 95%. 

Pretty sure this guy knows what he is talking about: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOKjgiZ7kbQ

my system is down for maintenance.

What?! That is considered an essential service. You need to legislate a back to work order.