I’ll add - if you have dedicated circuits install good quality outlets and go direct sans conditioner. Especially if it’s a 30 year old glorified power strip. That’s how I run my system - direct no power conditioner.
A not sarcastic question for the power conditioner/upgraded power cord folks
And I realize that there are those that don’t believe in either
Assuming you use a power conditioner and after market power cords, do you feel that the power cord from the power conditioner to the wall might be a limiting or even a negating factor to the performance of the after market power cords that run from the power conditioner to the gear?
The reason I ask is that I was about to embark upon some more experimentation with different power cords and where I plugged them into when I discovered that the aftermarket cords I had purchased before and some recent arrivals are actually a meter shorter than the ones that came with the gear. This doesn’t matter for the amp due to its location, but when I did my last power cord upgrade I ran my CDP and pre into a conditioner so the length for those didn’t matter either, but as I was doing the musical chairs with power cords thing today, I also was intending to run the CDP and pre straight into the wall on separate dedicated circuits, but I found out that I am a tad short on those two.
Which doesn’t preclude me from moving my dedicated circuit outlets up a couple of feet, and I suppose I probably will, but I was curious as to the opinions about the limitations of a power conditioners power cord.
Showing 12 responses by audphile1
@immatthewj let me simplify this… Scenario 1 - everything is plugged into the conditioner. In this case the besr power cord should be on the conditioner. Second best power cord should be on the amplifier. Go up the chain from there. |
Cool about audience cords. I really like them especially for the amp. Don’t recall if I ever tried XLO…don’t think I did… If you’re handy you can probably upgrade the captive cord in that power strip but I’m not sure it’s worth the effort. You will need to make a cutout and install IEC connector. Not that big of a deal but still work and money dumped into a 30 year old power strip. Alternative would be this Pangea but I personally never tried it. For $250 or $299 with return policy may be worth a shot. You’ll need a 20A cord or an adapter from Amazon to try with your XLO or Forte. |
@immatthewj moving the outlets and going direct to wall would be my preference as well. I just installed a second Shunyata SR-Z1 outlet. Got the first one a week ago. Really nice and not very expensive. Consider these when you work on moving the circuits. Great connection and grip. Solid buy. |
@kennymacc fyi…your AQ Niagara uses transformers and as such it is an active power conditioner. It works on the same principle as a Puritan PSM156 which is a current limiting active power conditioner. May be the high current outlets in the Niagara 3000 bypass the circuit with transformers but the fact that you have transformers already means you are limiting current. |
Digital sources poop noise back into the AC line. A good power conditioner makes sense as it not only cleans up the AC going to your components but also cleans up and reduces the noise going back into the AC line. |
@kennymacc I wasn’t doubting your results. I’m happy you’re content with your power distribution components. I’d be interested in trying the AQ 3000 or similar level conditioner at some point to see if it makes a positive impact. May be some day. But for now I’m good with powering my system directly from outlets. |
@grislybutter never thought you were a troll but you just proved me wrong |