New Dedicated 20A Circuit Wiring Questions
Hello All-
Sorry for the length but I spent allot of time trying to make this as clear as possible and straight forward with all info I felt relevant.
I had a low grade buzz/hum in my current system, had to upgrade home power service to 200A and ran a dedicated line to the stereo while at it. The house also has a home surge protector on incoming power now.
Overall Thoughts on Wiring (with time to make changes if necessary)
I have 12/2 solid Romex with Hubbell PVC 1-gang box and Hubbell extra HD hospital, isolated ground #IG8300R outlet. To this red/orange outlet, the ZeroSurg with a duplex outlet is plugged in (using the ZeroSurg equipped power line).
Into 1 of the outlets of the ZeroSurg is plugged a new AntiCables level 3 power cord. This power cord then feeds into a Lowell Mfg 12” 15A (w/breaker) 7 outlet power strip. The power strip then supplies the stereo needs. Of Note here are a number of Anticable L3 power cord reviews that documented owners who experienced a decrease in noise (out the speakers) with use. Yes, that influenced me, wouldn’t that be a nice benefit.
The pathway noted in above paragraph was recommended to me by Paul (owner) from AntiCables. Paul also recommended plugging all my stereo components into the power strip that now serves the 20A dedicated line.
Curious about any recommendations to better this with additional info supplied below. Due to reading on this forum and others I have questions concerning noise from ground loop and/or RFI, EM which I want to keep in check.
Some facts about my vintage system to keep in mind:
1) I’m thinking the cleanest AC will be that which has passed through the ZeroSurge, then through the Anticable power line and offered in the power strip to the stereo?
2) Not to forget, there is one extra outlet left open on the Hubble duplex 20A outlet of the dedicated line after the Zerosurg was plugged into it. There is also 1 outlet available on the duplex outlet of the Zerosurg after the other was taken by the Anticable L3 power cord supplying the power strip. Of course the available extra Zerosurge outlet is Zerosurg protected where-as the extra Hubble outlet is only protected by the Home surge protector.
3) My Yamaha C-85 Control Amplifier (Pre) has 6 AC outlets available on its rear panel, 5 switched and 1 unswitched. My Yamaha M-65 Class A Power Amplifier has 1 available unswitched AC outlet.
Things I’ve read of concern, and should I alter Paul’s wiring recommendation?
A) I have the SOTA Total Eclipse Package on my VPI Prime Turntable. The prime power is now delivered through the “Condor PSU” - Wall Wart; 24VDC 500mA and the “Road Runner Tachometer (RR)” - Wall Wart; 9VDC 300mA.
B) I also have a Cambridge Audio DacMagic Plus, also a Wall Wart; 12VDC 200mA. Digital; my Pioneer Multi-Play CD, PD-M700.
Concern is 3 Wall Warts and a digital CD player. Simply put, I’ve read that these components by some audiophiles are dealt with independently of the analog direct 20A line. Seems the consensus is “wall warts” and “digital” are additional unwanted noise to the line (question here is a DAC digital?). Conundrum, 2 of those wall warts are my Prime! I have to have my turntable on the dedicated line don’t I? I don’t want to run 2,3,4-6 dedicated 20A lines, my system is far from that deserving.
So, to be complete; I have a Audiocontrol Octave Equalizer & Spectrum Analyzer which probably could be plugged into the power strip, Pre amp, or Power amp. Any preference that any of my components be plugged into the PreAmp/Amp components vs the power strip? I also have a VCR and Blu-Ray which I have plugged into a separate circuit on the wall, I have 4 more outlets of that non dedicated house circuit open.
In summary, if using Paul’s recommendation (all stereo components plug into Power strip). I would have 3 wall warts (including the 1- Dac and 2- TT), a digital CD player, Power Amp, Pre Amp (or plug Pre into available Amp outlet?), and EQ all on the dedicated line. Should “wall warts” or certain ones go to the wall outlets? Are there any benefits to plug a component into extra outlets on rear of Pre-amp vs into the power strip?
Dedicated isolated ground
I have read that a good method to wire ground wires was by using a “star” shaped ground bar but never found any online. So, I have a 4” length brass bar with 10 screws for securing ground wires and all my stereo components metal chassis ground wires run to it. Some components have thumb screws to attach your wires & others came with wire attached, all different sizes, strand or solid. I used what was given and also used sometimes size 14 copper. For no apparent reason I attached chassis grounds to the bar from both ends toward the middle, both ends equally ascending in size from small stranded to larger sizes toward the middle. Therefore, the center wire on the bar was the “main ground wire” & largest size (12) that will run directly to the Hubbell duplex outlet green grounding screw that also secures the 12/2 ground wire of the dedicated 20A line.
There are no other grounds run to that dedicated line except the “main ground line” from the brass bar. The 12/2 Romex is not encased by conduit, the Hubbell outlet is within a PVC single gang box. At the 200A service box the dedicated ground attaches closest to the incoming main house ground serving the house panel and other end at outlet as described.
If looking at my ground bar (from LT to RT) the components order (determined only by size & luck of the draw) resulted as follows: EQ CD Sota-Motor VPI-Main-Bearing MainGND-Line PreAmp+Amp Condor+RR DAC TruSweep. The MainGND-Line size 12 runs to Hubbell green GND screw.
Note: the PreAmp+Amp as well as the Condor+RR, both sets of grounds, were daisy chained in line, containing the 2 component chassis grounds as indicated(+) & secured to ground bar on 1 screw each as all others.
Any problems with this grounding scheme?
Thanks for any comments, suggestions-
Robes
@terry9 I am out of touch with the ideas behind a Isolation Tranx, the purpose of one seems to have evaded my memory, but in the past have acquired two. One Purchase was able to be used with my Power Amp's and the later Purchase being quite capable of using with the entire system. Due to changes being planned to the home, I never got these installed. I am now working towards having dedicated electrical feed for Audio run into my yet to be built Audio Room. A feed can also be one that has the Isolation Tranx incorporated. I can then work the best option out to be maintained as the audio system power feed and also do A/B demo's as a experience for visitors, especially those who bring their own audio items along. Can you remind me of the benefits expected to be attained from using the Iso' Tranx.
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@pindac Sure. Oversimplifying a bit, an isolation transformer works by routing the power from the wall through an inductor, and back to the wall (primary). The inductor then energizes a secondary coil which mirrors the phase and frequency and power of the primary. Thus a huge surge in the primary is routed back into the wall, and the inductor smooths that out while transmitting the transient signal (much attenuated) to the secondary. Everything gets smoothed out: surges, noise from switching power supplies, back EMF from motors, radio interference. When the electrical inspector came to certify my isolation transformers, he said that he had never seen cleaner power, and he used to work at a power generating station. Primary connection is best if it comes from its own line from the panel. Secondary should output to your room. Ground should be AT LEAST as big as the biggest wire - this is important because if an inductor is taken out of a circuit, it tends to punch the same current through whatever barrier changed things. This 'inductive kick' as it is sometimes called, can run to 1000 volts. It is important that if anything goes wrong, the path to ground can handle the maximum current that the transformer handles. So much for the technicalities. How does it sound? Smoother. Cleaner. Clearer. More resolving. A layer of nasty edge came off the sound. It was like replacing a good phono stage with a great one. If you are building a dedicated room, you might want to do as I did, and optimize the dimensions. There's lots of snake oil out there from the usual suspects, and even industry insiders from the old days, but the real work has been done at the University of Salford, School of Acoustics, by the great Cox. It's all neatly tabulated in a published paper. And it works - at least, it worked for me - but the builder wasn't too thrilled to be working to 3mm tolerances. |
@terry9 Dr Trevor Cox is Bookmarked. After recent exchanges in another Thread, it looks like I have a tip to take a step closer to being in front of a Great Phonostage. If has been suggested I am deficient in this experience, which I must agree is possibly correct. I have experienced a selection of what my forum ego will refer to as really really good ones.
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