Room Acoustics, minimal treatment and measurements


Afternoon all.  Thought this might be helpful to some with wondering if room treatments can help with your 2-channel, and how to help visualize and measure what you may not fully grasp hearing wise.  I am just using a Mac Laptop and cheapo microphone, and REW, and 6 insulation panels.

This is my Step Fathers system, and pretty much empty LARGE  basement listening space.  There is a LOT of echo-reverb-ringing that (to my ears) over excites mid to upper frequencies, like being in a busy store/restaurant. With music, this can in ways help make a recording sound like it's in a larger studio/hall/space, but it also mashes a lot together and can over-color the music.  This results in lost focus and change in ACTUAL recorded acoustics: so an intimately microphoned musician will sound like an empty room, where an empty room sounds like an empty gymnasium.  This, also over-washes a bit of the mid-range and higher bass-losing it's tone and timbre.    Major thanks to @erik_squires who has been gracious to help with this process with dead-on advice.

FULL BASEMENT MEASUREMENTS:
34'long x 22'wide x 10'high

LISTENING AREA MEASUREMENTS:

15'long x 22'wide x10'high

Empty room, no treatments and RT60 plot.  Listening seat is *in the middle of the whole basement space, under an 18" boxed beam.*

 

"Treated" room, with RT60 plot.  Notice the overall mid-upper frequency taming from 700ms of "ring/decay", to 500ms.  Even with this, if you snap your fingers, you still hear a flutter echo.  This is from the whole other half of the basement room behind me, mostly.


Crude room response measurement:



Sketch and measurements of where things are in the listening room:


I hope this is helpful and gives you some things to try out that don't cause major disruptions to your system, until you really determine if and where your issues are and then you can buy and mount things.  My next step is to see where ON the walls I can place absorbing panels, and how many might be needed for a nominal improvement.  My thinking is the bigger issues are the ceiling, front wall, and then 'filling' the space behind the seat just to eat up ambient stray ringing.
 

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@erik_squires   So everything is hooked up right, and phased proper (9v batter into the BASS speaker terminals-both moving at the same time......just very very little at 'nominal' volume). 

I'll try running one speaker at a time, and I'm trying to find the original straps to hook up as well.  I'm trying not to monkey too much-not my system kind of thing.  

I did do some measurements just to isolate the Tweeter from the Bass to see each for reference.  Red=Bass, Green=tweeter/Mids, Orange=full range.  You can see where the dual 7" cut off around 100hz.....and then the response just poops out. 
Without actually cracking things open to ensure something like polyfill isn't over stuffed or something, I am just a bit alarmed at a "18hz-32khz +/- 2db" speaker would in-room measure like that.  Now that I think of it I could measure at a nominal 2-3' and try to exclude the room as much as possible (more anecdotal since it's impossible to not have some room impact).
 

I found the Stereophile measurements for the predecessor. If the two units are similar, then your measurements are actually quite normal for the line. The review also goes into some details about the unique crossover choices, which your measurements kind of confirm. There’s a lot here that goes against the grain for most loudspeakers, including the unusually high -3 dB point given the size of the woofers. I suggest moving them back towards the wall, and consider re-testing after plugging the ports. You may find the slower rolloff preferable. Worth listening to it. So, all my advice about sound absorption was correct, you could even do a little more, but if it were me, I’d want more bass than you have so far.

 

@erik_squires That's interesting I didn't find that when I poked around Stereophile, but I may not have been searching right and gone back far enough to look into the prior model versions.  This bass fall off has to be room size and placement-most everything else like you are seeing and noting falls fairly in line with the measurements (mine and older that you found). That graph from the previous version shows what I would have expected (and it's not that far off of what the baby Studio HDs do in my own tiny home). 

I am completely in line with you, I'd ABSOLUTELY want to somehow reinforce some better low end presence, or just invest in two sub-woofers and very carefully integrate them to not lose the really great detail and sound stage.  I am not certain he would go for it: I'd guess he's committed to the room formula, and doesn't feel like he's missing anything.  However, I got him to agree to do the room treatment  to absorb the ringing and reverb, and that will improve all the things he does like, which makes me happy.  Like you already know, it will also bring out/unveil some of the mid upper bass and warm things a bit which I am sure he won't mind and maybe like?

I was going to look into directly connecting to my laptop and running some mild experimental parametric EQ just to hear how the speakers would react to some mild tweaking.  I'm not a fan of it, but it's a cheap and easy and fast way to hear a span of possibilities.  It's just so sad and disappointing when I -know- something has incredible drum punches or room resonating cello pulls that feel like the cellist is leaning against you.....and here I sit.....like....."bro...do you even woofer bro?!"

Thanks again Erik!! 
~alan

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Normally, I say to leave a speaker be and not to try to hack it very much.  Either love it as is or get something else.  In this case though I feel you have a number of approaches which could be really worthwhile for you and your dad.

Compared to a traditional multi-way speaker, the Legacy focus seems to be "missing" the crossover between the 7" and woofers.  While we can argue about the end result, two things are happening:  The lack of a crossover = 2 Ohm minimum load, and there's some interference between the woofer and mid-woofs(7"). 

Based on that, I think in the future there are a number of ways to deal with it which improve the bass performance significantly:

I.  Passive bi-amping. The reason this is an excellent idea here is that the lack of a crossover means you have a very low minimum impedance in the bass range. Less capable amps can handle just the bass or the mid-treble section but not both. Separate the two sections and each has ~ 4 Ohms minimum.

II. Active bi-amping. Put a miniDSP in front of your two amplifiers. This will give you excellent EQ capabilities, and you’ll be able to add the "missing" filters. Again, you end up with 2 x 4 Ohm sections instead of one 2 Ohm section.

III. Low impedance capable amp, like a stiff Krell or Sanders or Coda. Something that will handle the 2 Ohm or lower load in the bass section.