How important is the efficiency of a speaker to you?

@daveyf  : Trouble ( if any ) with the whole subject  that is confirmed through the thread posts is that each one of us have our each kind of target for home MUSIC reproduction and even several of us just do not have targets about.

In my opinion and before to look for efficiency/amps and the like is to be very specific the kind of MUSIC/sound each one of us want it I think that this is the main and critical factor to decide the: MUSIC reproduction sources, transducers, electronics, room treatment, cables and the like even our seat position and the kind of chair to listen sessions.

R.

@atmasphere wrote:

I look at it this way- if you can’t drive it well with 100 Watts (in most rooms), its a problem.

+1

... and 1000 Watt amps that sound like music don’t seem to exist although class D is getting close with amps that can make 600 Watts or so.

Whether or not there’s a generality to your claim above, I can’t say, but I was surprised to learn that a 600W class A/B power amp from MC² Audio was perhaps even more "musical" sounding than a 30W class A ditto from Belles (which was a great amp) - that is, driving a 111dB horn/compression driver combo connected directly to their terminals (i.e.: actively, sans passive crossovers). Nothing sterile, tonally lean, mechanical or bright sounding about the Brit, I can tell you that, or whatever you’re implying about high power amps sonics. To boot its inherent noise level (in fully differential balanced mode) is slightly lower than the Belles (unbalanced), even with a 32dB vs. 26dB gain. I feared it would have been the other way ’round.

Btw. it’s 8 ohm EV DH1A drivers (that can also be had in 16 ohm versions), but without the intervention of passive crossovers, added to +110dB sensitivity and the amp being limited to run the load from ~600Hz on up, it’s a piece-of-cake job for an amp if ever there was one. Show me an amp running a 16 ohm load, full-range and looking into a passive crossover that will be running in cruise mode the same way. Not going to happen.

It’s not that I need that much power in my setup (also falling in line with the first quoted part of yours above), but I wanted to use the same amps in my 3-way active system from top to bottom, and ended up "replicating" the one used on the subs to begin with - one that turned out to be great sounding full-range as well (which I expected, given their reputation). As they say: if it sounds great, it sounds great.

@invalid wrote:

The amount of solid state amps that sound good with high sensitivity speakers is also limited, that’s why a lot of people choose set amps with these types of speakers.

Another generality, indeed this one is a myth that has gone on forever. From my experience it holds little to no bearing (I can imagine it would have been an issue back in the very early days when SS amps likely sounded like crap, or certainly worse than today), but you’re certainly allowed to take fuller advantage of a low wattage SET design when driving very high efficiency speakers, and such a combo can indeed sound fantastic. The inherent noise level of such amps sees some filtration through passive crossovers. Actively, another matter, and it’s also why I prefer SS amps in that constellation.

@phusis  It is not a myth, it has to do with the low output impedance of solid state amps.

@invalid --

That's not to say it can't be great match sonically. 

@phusis  It is not a myth, it has to do with the low output impedance of solid state amps.

Flea watt SET tubes produce a lousy loose wet noodle bass, sounds like a sloppy fart. It's not a myth. But, guys who listen to Diana Krall @60db may not know any better. When the bar is set so low, loose fart SETs might indeed sound spectacular for such guys.