Start unplugging components and plug back in one at a time. Coax for cable, hdmi cables, and Ethernet and like mentioned power cords next to speaker cables all can send signal to a power amp to amplify it. It can be irritating until you can identify the source.
Hum in speakers, and suggestions for stopping it
Hi, everyone.
Any success stories in scenarios similar to mine, described below? Grounding boxes? Outlet upgrades? Gadgets like the Morely Hum Exterminator (née Ebtech Hum X)? I’m looking for a non-invasive solution (e.g., not getting a dedicated line into the room).
The situation: I had each of my PS Audio M700 amplifiers plugged in to a Stellar PowerPlant 3. The system sounded great, but I knew I'd likely get better sound with the M700s in the wall outlet. I made the switch and there was a huge improvement -- so I want to keep this configuration.
However, there's now a hum in the speakers. Given that there was no hum with the M700s in the PowerPlant 3, I think it's safe to assume the problem is the wall outlet. I can't hear the hum 99.5 percent of the time when music's playing, but ... well, you know.
"My" electrician came out yesterday and said doing a dedicated line to the outlet would entail demolition and/or other options that aren't feasible right now.
Thanks much!
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Start unplugging components and plug back in one at a time. Coax for cable, hdmi cables, and Ethernet and like mentioned power cords next to speaker cables all can send signal to a power amp to amplify it. It can be irritating until you can identify the source. “
SOMETIMES it’s this easy. But definitely start there. Ground loops are common. Sometimes it’s a grounding issue with the house breaker panel. We lost the connection to ours a couple decades ago (in 1972 they used a braided steel connection between ground/neutral on the breaker panel and a copper water pipe) which of course, due to electrolytic corrosion failed and I just last month watched our electrician at our new house in TN connect a braided wire to a copper-plated steel rod with a CLAMP. A STEEL clamp. Iron rust doesn’t conduct electricity - although copper oxides DO. When I put in my ham radio tower I used thermite gadgets (Erico Cadweld GT1161V One Shot Ceramic disposable body https://a.co/d/jceML9A ) to weld the solid copper wire to the grounding rods and will do this with our new house in Tennessee shortly - right after final inspection - the steel clamps are industry standard (CODE) and are crap (can I say this here?). Something like THIS is a good investment for starters to make sure your wiring’s right (like HOT black wire to little prong): Klein Tools RT210 Outlet Tester, Receptacle Tester for GFCI / Standard North American AC Electrical Outlets, Detects Common Wiring Problems https://a.co/d/3NI34IS
Good luck, keep us posted.
BTW, anyone looking for the Cadweld gadgets, they’re available elsewhere much cheaper. When I bought ‘em they were about ten bucks (yeah, in THIS century, about 12 years ago).
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If the amp is 5 years or older... a lot of the times is a capacitor or tube ageing. If you have restacked your components, the power from one may interfere with the other component if they aren't shielded from one another. Move any electrical devices away from the amp one by one to see if one of those resolves the problem. Some older amps who had wooden cases had a metal cover below to shield the electronics from florescent lights which caused buzzing in the speakers If none of that helps, locate a dumpster near your house. oh... make sure the positive speaker wire wasn't accidently connected to the negative. |
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