Higher-End Class A/B vs. Class A Integrateds


I’ve been thinking about downsizing from separates to an integrated amp. I’ve noticed that some companies have both class A and class A/B amps that are both pretty expensive such as Luxman for example. Hegel seems to be well received and they’re not true class A as far as I know.

I was kind of under the impression that class A was better than class A/B due to lower distortion yet again, there are some well reviewed class A/B amps that are as pricey as some class A amps.

To be clear, it’s really not the price I’m concerned about. It’s the fact that some integrated amps $5000 and up are still only Class AB.

How do these higher priced class AB amps sound in comparison to true class A amps?

nicktheknife

My Outlaw RR2160MKll class A/B is 110 watts per channel, Yeah it's Heavy, thats what I like about it, well one of the many reasons. Does not get Hot, get's warm after cranking it listening to Led Zeppelin for a few hours on my Turntable.

In the last 3 years I have gone through too many class A and A/B amps (integrated and separates) to mention. I just bought a Luxman L-509Z. I use an Aurender A20 as my digital source. Speakers are Harbeth SHL5s 30th anniversary. Even the phonostage is outstanding, IMHO. You will need a cartridge to match the specs of the 509Z. My Ortofon Cadenza Blue works very well.

I am no longer searching for an amplifier.

Update:

I ended up buying a demo unit Kinki Studio EX-M1+ from a small dealer in Michigan.

I’m beginning to feel I made a mistake. I know it’s Chinese but that’s not the reason for my feeling.

The unit was purported to have less than 20 hrs. on it and and I estimate that I may have put an additional 40 hrs. (?). The manual states 300 hrs. for burn-in. I’m not exactly sure how the sound is going to change but as it stands now, I have to say it sounds a bit underwhelming and disappointing.

This version does not have a gain switch. According to the manual the volume adjusted by steps up to 100. To get any decent volume for my relatively small room of 13’L x 12’W x 8’H and sitting approx. 6’ from the speakers I have to put the volume at least 60. Usually even higher.

The Kinki integrated is rated at 215 W rms (8 ohms) 290 W rms (4 ohms) both channel driven. Damping factor of 2000.

My speakers are Sonus Faber Lumina III’s rated at 89db sensitivity and 4 ohm nominal impedance.

To experiment I swapped the Sonus Faber for an old pair of ACI Sapphire III’s that are rated at 90db and 6 ohm, nominal impedance: 4.7 ohms.

Other than sounding different, the ACI’s were basically behaving the same way with the Kinki.

Before, I was using a McCormack DNA- 0.5 power amp with either a Classe Audio CP-50 preamp or Rogue Audio Model 99 Magnum pre. I didn’t have to move the volume up as much to get much volume or excitement out of either of these speakers and the McCormack is rated at 125W rms.

Could it be that the Kinki needs the full burn-in time or is that it sounds so smooth and laid back compared to what I went from that I am not getting very excited while listening? It is dead silent compared to the other combos and I’m picking up some subtle details that I wasn’t aware of before, unless that’s just because I’m listening more intently/critically since the amp is new to me.?

I’d appreciate any words of advice. I know one poster here owned the Kinki, albeit an older version I think. I recall him speaking of a gain switch which as I mentioned before, this version does not have.

Thanks,

Nick

Nick, you’re not alone. I also fell victim to the hype and bought a Kinki EX-M1+ (used). Nothing special at all. I would say below average. I sold it at a considerable loss within 60 days.
 

Sorry for being the bearer of bad news. 

The Kinki integrated is rated at 215 W rms (8 ohms) 290 W rms (4 ohms) both channel driven. 

The answer is in the quoted specs, unfortunately this amp is fairly gutless. Look for an amp that doubles the wattage going from 8 to 4 ohms, or at least comes close.