Replace Dynaudio woofers?

Wow. I want to thank everyone so very much for all the amazing contributions. I was feeling pretty deflated, but now the mission is back on.

@perkadin  and @audioman58   Part of the reason I tried to remove the woofer so quickly was because there was an inkling (hope) it might be the crossover. I'll give the woofers another go (thank you @elliottbnewcombjr for the putty knife recommendation) and connect it to another speaker. 

Confession time: but it's probably the woofers: they blew during a party. I was young and stupid and let my friends keep turning up the volume (/cry). 

@timlub @jetter Thank you for the parts and service recommendations. I'll probably start looking into these immediately. And these "knock offs" are as good as OEM? Usually knock-offs of things aren't up to snuff, but I can imagine the it's different in the passionate world of hi-fi. 

Again, thank you everyone for your knowledge. I bought the Contours from Audiogon back in the day, and I'm happy to find it's still a great community after a 15 years absence. 

There is no chance you can build anything for $100  . I am speaking quality 

I have been dojng this for over 20 years , my standards are much higher 

having been into Audio for 40+ years, for example these white $2 resistors I use $30 each X4. Path audio ,much better detail ,clearer more open , if on a budget put in 12 watt mills resistors $12 each ,the inductors are Jantzen and good 

the white Mundorf are their lower mid grade Evo capacitors, Mundorfs Best quality are Black their Supreme line . Foil capacitors are better then sprayed conductors.

myself use the much more expensive Jantzen AlumenZ  capacitors ,

and Duelund tinned Copperfoil Bypass caps for the tweeters to complement the Jantzen ,I spent without the Upgraded Cardas wire $1300 just in parts .

that being said you can build a external Xover and use the Best Duelund capacitors 

depending on sizes 3x the monies, why don’t $50k speakers use top quality parts 

is all about saving $$ . I am just pointing out these from a 20 year+ point of expertise .  Just go to Humble homemade hifi capacitor test, the white Evo caps are respectable , and used by a lot of companies but rated roughly a 9

pThe best Duelund a 15,   Just get rid of the 4 -$2 resistors and put in all Path Audio resistors , and a .01 uf Duelund tinned Copper foil cap for the tweeter capacitor you will hear a solid increase in resolution and refinement for under $300.

I am just suggesting it’s your speaker I have been there done many combinations and still do for others ,all depending on budgets.

@xidnpnlss. I have seen the Dynavox drivers, they look fine. I have used the 6 1/2 inch original version of the HiVi. Totem used this driver in the original Forest, needed a bit of work, but turned out very well. I have seen a comparison of underhung woofers years ago, it compared a Morel, the HiVi and the Dyn. All 3 were 6 inch with 3 inch coils. The HiVi was the most preferred. If I can find it, I'll  post. The Dynavox look very good for such a low price, I know parts express has them, not sure about anywhere else. I hope this info helps you out, Tim

@timlub Are these the ones you're referring to? https://www.parts-express.com/HiVi-D6.8B-6-Poly-Bass-Midrange-Shielded-297-444?quantity=1

They look the part. My concern (and please correct me if I'm wrong) is that Dynaudio designed the woofers to work specifically with the tweeter. Wouldn't one run the chance of throwing off the speaker's sound with a driver that is not OEM?

But that may not be a concern after all...

So after trying and failing to remove the woofer with a plaster knife, I approached it from the rear, thinking I could push the woofer out from behind. The wire connector came off more easily, but it had definitely been glued. As I was removing the foam, this appeared:

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ezr21z0dvga8k6814sbi0/2023-09-02-11.33.22.jpg?rlkey=4flggloj4xpbb00hz9gdkp2ml&dl=0

(I'm not sure the picture is showing up, so I'll described it as a corner of the foam covering the crossover as burnt)

Lo and behold the component looks fried

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/oxd0kdj9hqopde1jq56br/2023-09-02-11.44.51.jpg?rlkey=nxh9irj6nb17p2m4d9re3uuqv&dl=0

So maybe I can assume the problem is actually the crossover? It doesn't look good, either way. Do I replace only the component or the entire crossover?

I still need to figure out how to remove the drivers to be sure; plus I obviously need to get the crossover out through the woofer hole. And I want to change the Ferrofluid while I'm at it. I tried pushing it out from behind but it still won't budge: considering the speaker connector was glued, I can only assume it's glued (maybe they didn't glue it on the mkII...I'll contact Dynaudio). Any advice on removing a glued driver? I am honestly stuck ;)

Thank you all again for your help in this journey. For reasons I won't get into, it's been a therapeutic process giving these some TLC after all this time. 

Wow it looks like a short occurred on the crossover, is the other one like that as well? Best case scenario would be the crossovers sacrificed themselves and protected the drivers. Definitely get both crossovers out and give them a good inspection. You might be able to buy replacement crossovers from Dynaudio or even rebuild them better then new using modern parts with the same specs assuming you know how to solder. If that’s the case and it turns out the drivers are still good, this could be a rather inexpensive repair/potential upgrade.  PS. Mine are also Cherry. Love them, there’s something about the older Contour series.  Solid bass, and strong midrange.  They lack the detail of the modern Dyn models, but are almost agnostic to bad recordings.