A possible explanation would be, W20SE is not completely off the grid. Only its audio circuitry is being fueled by set of lifepo4 batteries. Hence the impact of a fuse and a PC is clearly audible through your fine system. Did you receive your PP Clock, what are your early impressions?
Streamers and their Fuses
I purchased the Aurender W20SE back in August and ran it on the stock 5 cent generic 2 amp 5mmx20mm slow burn fuse in it’s FURUTECH FI-03 Rhodium plated IEC Inlet. It sounds amazing in stock form the last 3 months… But 3 weeks ago I decided to upgrade the fuse in the W20SE to the Magic Audio Masterpiece M-1. The difference is not subtle. It feels like the potential of the streamer is unlocked, the detail, clarity and richness of tonal transparency is entirely transformed. My goal in HiFi is always holographic imaging of accurate instrument separation, this was improved as well. It is such a startling discovery I cannot listen to my Jay’s Audio MK3-CDT3 CD transport anymore, whereas before the fuse upgrade the CD transport was clearly the higher quality sound reproduction.
Anyone else experienced shocking results from upgrading their streamer’s fuse? I’d love to hear your feedback. All I can say is after burning this Audio Magic m-1 masterpiece in for a week it’s the only fuse I’ll put in my HiFi gear from now on. The purple fuse from Synergistic Research was my previous go to, but the audio magic m-1 is far superior in every possible way imho. 😉
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@lalitk the pang audio clock muddied the system terribly, sold it already and bought the Mutec ref10 se120. The Mutec should be a considerable upgrade, but like you said the pang had a worse clock than what was already in the W20SE and mk3. |
- 90 posts total