Class-A Amplification and 15 Amp Outlet
Pardon my electrical theory ignorance, but I have always been intrigued by the beauty of Class - A sound, as such, I am actively exploring a purchase. My question is based upon the power draw (even at idle) and the ability of a 15 Amp wall outlet to provide such without tripping. I have looked at the "big boys" from Pass XA160’s, Gryphons Essence Stereo & Antileon EVO to name a few. I do not have the option of installing a dedicated circuit in my unit. So, would I be ok if the electronics (including a DAC/preamp) were on the same circuit?
Thanks!!
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- 27 posts total
+1 @steakster |
Hi Jeffrey Welcome to the wonderful world of Class A. You're gonna love it. I have Krell KRS200s, possibly the most power hungry domestic amps ever built. They draw more than 1kW per side from the wall. I live in UK where the standard wiring is 13amp. My Krells have been fine in two different houses on this. They were also fine on the wimpy French electric system that was designed for the 120 volts they had in the old days before they upgraded. So I concur with most of the advice here. Just plug em in. There are of course some who say a bigger power supply or power cord improves the sound. Don't listen to them. Amplifiers aren't like dogs. They don't eat more food just because you give it to them. An adequate power supply is all you need. |
Well first off I would see what the manufacturer recommends. Secondly you have to remember that anything that makes heat draws big Amps. That is the reason class a amps use more they make heat. As far as sound quality goes you don't want the circuit to ever be the limiting factor I understand that you are limited in your electrical in your house and a good thing you are thinking about it before you spend your money. Don't think the output watt rating of the amplifier has anything to do with it as an example my mark Levinson monoblocks are rated at 150 watts a side and they recommend a minimum of one dedicated 20 amp circuit for each monoblock. Yet there are many HT receivers that have seven channels like seven by one hundred that don't draw near as much as my one channel by 150. By there very nature tube amps don't draw as many amps as a solid state class a operation amp even a class a operation tube amp. A big part of the load on your electrical will be which amp you choose and you are on the absolute right track thinking about what you are doing before spending any Money. Remember that solid state amps are a amp source to control the speaker and tubes are a voltage source that is the main difference. A class a amp only amplifies one half of the wave form the other half is turned into heat so at idle is is running at full power on one side continuously. That is where the hear comes from. And that heat is a draw on the electrical circuit. The size of the cooling fins on the amp will be a good indication of the power the amplifier draws. The bigger the cooling fins the more power draw.
Regards Tom |
- 27 posts total