To Buy or to DIY, here is my question

Have you built speakers before?

I've done a lot of DIY, especially with wood, and including speakers and crossovers, and I'll tell you right now that it will always take more time than you think and be more expensive than you think. Especially if you need to buy the tools to do it, such as saws, saw guides, router, router bits, drill, drill bits, hole saws, sanders, soldering iron, veneer tools and clamps. Clamps alone could run a couple hundred dollars. You'll also need supplies, like sandpaper, stain, brushes, solvent, veneer, polyurethane, glue, etc. A good stain like General Finishes will run $35-50. And you'll need batting, internal wire, terminal cups, grill cloth, feet, and crossover parts (which can be hundreds of dollars), etc. Even wood is very expensive right now.

It will also be more time-consuming. If you're inexperienced you will make mistakes. And if you are experienced you may tend to want to push your skills to the point of making mistakes. Mistakes cost money.

Unless you're highly skilled, I would say stay away from DIY unless you achieve personal satisfaction from the idea of creating things. If it's just about saving money, you likely won't.

I’ve decided to do the Troels Gravesen’s design Atell 3. A DIY version of Kaiser’s classic speaker.

I like to break each individual part down for a build and then mock up each part to insure it to my satisfaction before starting on the production version,

For instance I made custom trim rings to mechanically fasten the drivers to the front baffle. I manufactured the metal trim ring and recessed it into the material I have chosen to build front baffle with. I can use machine screws now to fasten the drivers instead of using a dry wall diameter wood screw and screwing it into MDF with a front baffle that resonates.

I did the same with the dual rear firing port. I created trim rings that go on outside port flare to give it a high quality look.

For the joints I took the degree pitch of the cabinet and made a mini mock up of edge with locking 45 miters.

I made a mock up of the custom footers as well.

The crossovers are going to be external so I designed a crossover box that mimics the speaker. I can take the crossover and set it on top of that speaker and the edges and angles all match up. Not that I will set it there but to illustrate that the crossover wasn't an after thought and speaker design was integrated into the crossover to be a matching set. 

I’ll use clear scratch-free Lexan for crossover top so crossovers can be displayed as I will get them to rival the Kaisers external crossovers.

So my suggestion is to work out all these details and lock in your measurements and zero out your tooling so your start positions are set for your production run.

Just my .02 cents

That is a pretty cool choice, I was gonna build that one and then decided against it as I had a hard time with the non-90-degree cuts as I did struggle with that on the gluing side on my center channels, I had to do a redo and went square.

My advice in the gluing is to make sure you have 2 extras helping when it comes time and do 3-4 dry runs with them before doing it. If you do a nice job on the cabinets, consider going to a cabinet maker to laminate and finish.

Good luck

You've got the budget to do the Linkwitz LX521 kit.  Not counting amplification, your cost will be around $3500.   Your choice of amplification will have a lot to do with the final project cost.  This will be your "forever" loudspeaker.  Trust me.  Easily stands up against any $50k+ commercial product.  Just friggin' amazing.

They look like audio frequency transmission towers...  So your best bet is to take them to an auto body paint shop.   Here are some images of a the CBT36 kit (I was not impressed with the sonics) a friend built.  They look incredible.

image 1
Image 2

Image 3

mod_asored,

The locking miter takes a little bit of math to get your joints right.  Then add a tapered cabinet and you've added a degree of complexity to it. 

Another benefit to this joint is it holds whatever adhesive you use well as opposed to a traditional mitered corner. 

I'n not veneering but instead opting for a high grade piano white paint finish. The front baffle will be most likely an Italian graphite colored leather with chrome plated brass trim rings for the drivers.

That Audio Technology woofer 10C77 is the main reason for this speaker build. It is an amazing performing bass driver.