To Buy or to DIY, here is my question

I asked this very question in a thread DIY speakers.

If the design and xover are proven then that leaves building the cabinets to the CAD or drawing specs. 

Not all DIY have someone that makes them and ships them as flat panels for end user to assemble. 

I'm a US manufacturer with high end CNC routers that can knock out cabinets relatively easy. Building tings is what I like to do and was reaching out to members who were also interested in a certain DIY model and we could get a few members as it would reduce CAD, programming and set up time by distributing that cost amongst 3-5 pairs rather than just one. 

carlsbad,

There are some in this hobby that believe if you spend more it must be better. 

I've been using power tools since I was very young so I have a great appreciation for having the skill set to build your own speakers. 

With what I do for a living,  using power tools is not even an option. It's a different skill set but nonetheless equally satisfying to use a 40 hp router and create parts with such a tight tolerance is very rewarding to experience. 

I'm building speakers cabinets with Panzerholz and making my own footers on CNC lathe. I've never seen a commercial speaker mention or show locking 45 miter joints but building an entire cabinet with this complex joint is a learning curve for sure.

Panzerholz is so dense I tap a thread into the wood to take a machine screw like you would tap metal, I do this for all the drivers instead of screwing a wood screw into MDF as commercial speakers offer. 

All my bits are carbine not carbine tip as this wood will tear them up if not. 

fatdaddy2,

Exactly. Hiring US workers with US taxes, US healthcare, US utilities etc. these ever increasing costs need to be recouped in every widget a company produces. 

As a manufacturer if you don't know your true cost of doing business you better brace yourself for impact. 

ditusa,

Thanks for that link. Now there is one on the list. 

To build a speaker cabinet without it doesn't make sense. 

1. Stronger joint for structure integrity.

2. More bonding surface than traditional 45 miter.

3. Provides an air tight seal.

When I purchased my first locking miter bit I purchased it at Woodcraft. I figured I would ask the staff there as the majority that work there are seasoned woodworkers who have a shop. 

None of them had experience with it nor could advise. 

Personally, I would not build a cabinet without this joint. 

mod_asored,

The locking miter takes a little bit of math to get your joints right.  Then add a tapered cabinet and you've added a degree of complexity to it. 

Another benefit to this joint is it holds whatever adhesive you use well as opposed to a traditional mitered corner. 

I'n not veneering but instead opting for a high grade piano white paint finish. The front baffle will be most likely an Italian graphite colored leather with chrome plated brass trim rings for the drivers.

That Audio Technology woofer 10C77 is the main reason for this speaker build. It is an amazing performing bass driver. 

I’ve decided to do the Troels Gravesen’s design Atell 3. A DIY version of Kaiser’s classic speaker.

I like to break each individual part down for a build and then mock up each part to insure it to my satisfaction before starting on the production version,

For instance I made custom trim rings to mechanically fasten the drivers to the front baffle. I manufactured the metal trim ring and recessed it into the material I have chosen to build front baffle with. I can use machine screws now to fasten the drivers instead of using a dry wall diameter wood screw and screwing it into MDF with a front baffle that resonates.

I did the same with the dual rear firing port. I created trim rings that go on outside port flare to give it a high quality look.

For the joints I took the degree pitch of the cabinet and made a mini mock up of edge with locking 45 miters.

I made a mock up of the custom footers as well.

The crossovers are going to be external so I designed a crossover box that mimics the speaker. I can take the crossover and set it on top of that speaker and the edges and angles all match up. Not that I will set it there but to illustrate that the crossover wasn't an after thought and speaker design was integrated into the crossover to be a matching set. 

I’ll use clear scratch-free Lexan for crossover top so crossovers can be displayed as I will get them to rival the Kaisers external crossovers.

So my suggestion is to work out all these details and lock in your measurements and zero out your tooling so your start positions are set for your production run.

Just my .02 cents

I gravitate towards open baffle speakers sonically but they tend to look butt ugly aesthetically. 

Have you heard the  Linkwitz LX521  personally/

Perki,

Great advice. What effects a build is stress and rushing it, Sometimes you need to step. back until all the pieces if the puzzle fall into place, 

I'm in production and time is money but sometimes you have to abandon that thought to get the end result you are wanting.