If you run out of power with the Pass try a bigger amp. But make it much bigger. The Pass is not a 25 watt amp. That's it's rating running class A into 8 ohms. It goes into AB above 25 watts and puts out about 70 watts if I recall correctly. So if you go bigger go at least twice 70 watts, preferably more or you aren't really upping the amp dynamic range.
Can it get better?
Seeking the advice of folks who have experienced significant gains when moving from an integrated amp to separate pre and power. I realize there are several threads on the topic but specifically, I’d be concerned about a lateral move in terms of sound quality while dishing out close to 2x what I purchased my integrated for. For example, my system consists of a Pass Labs Int-25 driving Harbeth Shl5+ 40th anniversaries. It’s a combination that gives coherent and smooth sound yet is quite resolving.
Why change? For one, I would like to experiment with different power for the Harbeths and am intrigued by some of the class d options out there. The Pass was about 5k and some of the pre and power combinations I’m considering would push the cost north of 10k. There are a number of well designed preamps out there in the 5k range that I could see serving me for many years. Assuming good synergy with the power amp, is there good reason to believe that separates would sound significantly better than the little Pass which has system synergy built in? In what way? Or would I have to venture into a higher tier in terms of cost?
thanks for the advice
Brian
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- 31 posts total
I agree with a person who says it’s not about integrated versus separate component. If you want tone and texture, I would look at some of the more powerful tube offerings That are available these days. Cayin Makes some very beautiful amps, integrated amps, That will bring out the best in the Harbeths. I am using A triode labs EL 84 which puts out about 15 watch per channel. I’m using this was her best 30.2 XDs. Sometimes a little bit Lacking In power, but they still sound much better than they do with my Bryston 14 B3. I’m using the prime Aluna Evo 400 amp preamp. If you haven’t played with tubes yet, you’re in for a treat. |
I agree with a person who says it’s not about integrated versus separate component. If you want tone and texture, I would look at some of the more powerful tube offerings That are available these days. Cayin Makes some very beautiful amps, integrated amps, That will bring out the best in the Harbeths. I am using A triode labs EL 84 which puts out about 15 watch per channel. I’m using this was her best 30.2 XDs. Sometimes a little bit Lacking In power, but they still sound much better than they do with my Bryston 14 B3. I’m using the prime Aluna Evo 400 amp preamp. If you haven’t played with tubes yet, you’re in for a treat. |
@dynamiclinearity actually, that’s not correct regarding the wattage of the INT 25. It is basically the XA25 with gain. The reason it has no pre outs is, it was intended to be single ended only and as simple as possible. This comes from the guys at Pass directly. Regarding the wattage output. Pass rates their amps at .01 THD which is where the 25w comes from. The Int25 puts out nearly 70 watts of Class A power at 1% THD. Which is the typical stat. All the measurements are in Stereophile. It’s quite the little beast and not like anything Pass has created before. Regarding the comment about the Hegel H590, wow that thing is a monster. Fantastic integrated. I just finished a shoot out between the Gryphon Diablo 120 and the H590, both are still in the house. I ultimately chose the Gryphon after much back to back listening with my wife. Both are EXCELLENT. But the Gryphon has a couple of character differences and it is the one I am going to keep. I could easily live with either one. There truly are some great integrateds out there that really give the separates game a run for the money. |
- 31 posts total