Technics SP10 MK3 Restoration


Just got my SP10 MK3 base (motor unit & controller) back from JP at FidelisAnalog.com
JP is one of the most knowledgeable on the SP10 MK3 and is the one who designed and manufactures the MN6042 Speed Control chip that keeps these and other Technics turntable models still operating.

My SP10 MK3 came with the stock Technics SH-10B5 faux obsidian base.
It has very low hours of use , no signs of wear at all on the bearing and not a single blemish, other than some specs of dust and a couple spots on the copper part of the platter that need cleaning.
but I would like to have a 2 arm, constrained layer plinth built and have the motor unit mounted 'naked'. I am presently searching somewhat 'affordable' plinth builders and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

The work that JP did to both the motor unit and the controller:

1.       Pre-refurbishment measurement to baseline the performance of the unit and to see if there are any underlying issues.
2. Cleaning of all PCBs to remove the factory conformal coating. At~40 years this coating tends to become hygroscopic which can cause stability issues.
3. Physical inspection of all solder joints under an inspection microscope. Many of the joints will exhibit annular deformities which can lead to joint fractures down the road. These must be cleared of the factory solder and re-soldered. There will also be poor joints that need the same treatment. You can’t just reflow as the solder alloys aren’t the same which can also cause joint failure down the road.
4. Electrolytic cap replacement and rectifier diode replacement.
5. Disassembly and cleaning of the motor. Bearing inspection and service work. Proper Anderol 465 oil is used for reassembly. Motor is then checked for any areas of bearing drag.
6. The brake solenoids typically needs cleaned, and band tension is adjusted.
7. Stop/start and speed selection switches in the motor chassis are measured for contact resistance. Too high of resistance is indicative of a switch failure in the future. In the control unit I typically replace all the tactile switches, and the start/stop switch if needed.
8. Relocation of the brake regulator transistor to the heatsink to prevent overheating of the board (factory design flaw).
9. MN6042 replacement installation.
10. PSU ripple check at all critical stages (10).
11.   Course calibration is performed and post-refurb baseline measurements for FG spectrum, motor drive phases, etc. are taken.

12.   After 48-hour run-in final calibrations and verification measurements are performed.

The basic service returns the unit to factory or better specifications (assuming no permanent bearing damage has occurred).   This service is quite exhaustive and very different from the typical work I see of just swapping some caps out, checking some voltages, and adjusting phase tracking.

The advanced service adds on top of the basic service:

1.       Replace all polyester capacitors.
2. Replace drive circuit metal oxide resistors.
3. Replace all voltage regulator ICs and update circuits.
4. Replacement of certain diodes.

Rick


128x128Ag insider logo xs@2xrich121
@pindac  

Checkout warrenjones SP10 appreciation thread on stereonet.
There is some very interesting information on checking motor runout, platter runout, new platters - there are significant opportunities in checking tolerances and blueprinting the SP10 motor, bearing and platter as part of your build - big gains to be had.
"Just watched this with better view of OMA Cast Iron plinth, and to my surprise Jonathan (at 5:10) said that there is a CRYSTALLINE GRAPHITE in this grey iron formula."I think you need to do a quick read of the metallurgy of cast iron. Cast iron contains a high percentage of carbon, that's why when you machine the dam stuff you get so dirty. He is just trying to make it sound like something super special. Makes me laugh.That part of Pennsylvania has quite a few pattern shops and small foundry's, or at least whats left of them. If he worked with a small mom and pop pattern shop, than the cost of that pattern would not have been that expensive, it's a few days worth of work at most. Getting the grey iron casting poured is usually quoted on a per pound basis if you supply the patterns. Very cheap. The machine work is very straight forward, nothing fancy. What blows my mind is the 10K price tag he puts on those bases. If this was an industrial part it would be several hundred dollars per piece in small lot sizes. I wouldn't be surprised if I know the pattern shop and machine shop that he used. I used to service most of them.They would be shocked if they knew the end price of the finished product. It's such a simple piece to manufacture, very basic.

BillWojo



@dover has he started providing any meaningful measurements yet?  The machine work does look rather nice, but I had to admit that I stopped paying much attention when he made the claim that the MK3 was digital. 

@billwojo I know one of the suppliers that makes the plinths is in to SP-10's, so I'd be surprised if they didn't know. 

I made slate plinths for several of my turntables, or I should say I had them made on a one by one basis, using Pennsylvania slate and a York, PA, Waterjet shop to cut the slabs. The total cost was always less than $500 per. Here we’re talking about cast iron, but the cost to build  vs the retail price for audio products is known always to be wildly out of whack. You pay your money, or not.
Claims the SP10R is significantly better than the SP10mk3 - LOL - of course the scarcity and age of SP10mk3’s would have nothing to do with their opinion !


I must admit he did not mention MK3, he said SP10. Turbtable drive in his old slate plinth on the right in his video is MK2 (not mk3) and SP10R is definitely better than mk2 @dover  ?

You have to remember their market is lunatic billionaire New Yorkers who have never heard a decent stereo, but want something unique - in the looks department. Their mobile ring tone is probably bling bling



Yes and No. Steve Guttenberg interviewed one of his customer, it’s about new speakers (not turntables), but the guy is definitely not a lunatic and he owned so many different high-end speakers before he stopped on Jonathan’s (OMA) Fleetwood Deville high efficient speakers.

Other people explained better who are the people behind Fleetwood Sound Company (OMA) in this topic. Not everyone is so skeptical, especially people who actually heard those.