Technics SP10 MK3 Restoration


Just got my SP10 MK3 base (motor unit & controller) back from JP at FidelisAnalog.com
JP is one of the most knowledgeable on the SP10 MK3 and is the one who designed and manufactures the MN6042 Speed Control chip that keeps these and other Technics turntable models still operating.

My SP10 MK3 came with the stock Technics SH-10B5 faux obsidian base.
It has very low hours of use , no signs of wear at all on the bearing and not a single blemish, other than some specs of dust and a couple spots on the copper part of the platter that need cleaning.
but I would like to have a 2 arm, constrained layer plinth built and have the motor unit mounted 'naked'. I am presently searching somewhat 'affordable' plinth builders and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

The work that JP did to both the motor unit and the controller:

1.       Pre-refurbishment measurement to baseline the performance of the unit and to see if there are any underlying issues.
2. Cleaning of all PCBs to remove the factory conformal coating. At~40 years this coating tends to become hygroscopic which can cause stability issues.
3. Physical inspection of all solder joints under an inspection microscope. Many of the joints will exhibit annular deformities which can lead to joint fractures down the road. These must be cleared of the factory solder and re-soldered. There will also be poor joints that need the same treatment. You can’t just reflow as the solder alloys aren’t the same which can also cause joint failure down the road.
4. Electrolytic cap replacement and rectifier diode replacement.
5. Disassembly and cleaning of the motor. Bearing inspection and service work. Proper Anderol 465 oil is used for reassembly. Motor is then checked for any areas of bearing drag.
6. The brake solenoids typically needs cleaned, and band tension is adjusted.
7. Stop/start and speed selection switches in the motor chassis are measured for contact resistance. Too high of resistance is indicative of a switch failure in the future. In the control unit I typically replace all the tactile switches, and the start/stop switch if needed.
8. Relocation of the brake regulator transistor to the heatsink to prevent overheating of the board (factory design flaw).
9. MN6042 replacement installation.
10. PSU ripple check at all critical stages (10).
11.   Course calibration is performed and post-refurb baseline measurements for FG spectrum, motor drive phases, etc. are taken.

12.   After 48-hour run-in final calibrations and verification measurements are performed.

The basic service returns the unit to factory or better specifications (assuming no permanent bearing damage has occurred).   This service is quite exhaustive and very different from the typical work I see of just swapping some caps out, checking some voltages, and adjusting phase tracking.

The advanced service adds on top of the basic service:

1.       Replace all polyester capacitors.
2. Replace drive circuit metal oxide resistors.
3. Replace all voltage regulator ICs and update circuits.
4. Replacement of certain diodes.

Rick


128x128Ag insider logo xs@2xrich121

Showing 16 responses by chakster

I would like to have a 2 arm, constrained layer plinth built and have the motor unit mounted ’naked’. I am presently searching somewhat ’affordable’ plinth builders and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

What is affordable?
In my opinion the most beautiful plinth for SP10 series is OMA Graphite plinth, but it was about $2k. Check this old thread.

This is very nice OMA plinth (2 arms) for a Technics with removed square chassis.

I’m pretty sure OMA double layer plinth is very expensive, but single layer graphite plinth is super stylish, look at this one and imagine SP10mk3.

Probably you can’t make a graphite or panzerholz plinth cheap, but you can make a plywood plinth very cheap (and veneer it over if you like).

This is my ex SP-10mkII in a custom made Teak Wood Plinth

I think that OMA only sells the ridiculously expensive caste iron plinth ~$10K and even if that was ’affordable’ I don’t think I would want it.


Not only, the Graphite plinth was their previous model, it was about $2k when I asked. You can always ask them using this link. But anyway, it’s inspiration at least (for design). They are expensive, but this one for example is not simple design, it’s two layers of Pennsylvanian Graphite .

What are you using now for a turntable?

I sold my Technics turntable about 3 years ago, but on the image you see a $500-700 teak wood plinth. Last year I put together a system for a friend, custom made Baltic birch plywood plinth was made locally for under $200 for his Technics.

What am I using now? I have much better turntables for my needs (I designed custom made racks for each of them), I happy that a question about plinth does not exist for me anymore (my Luxman PD-444 comes in super heavy aluminum stock plinth on suspended feet, each aluminum armboard is adjustable for a given PS distance and can be used for almost any tonearm on the market).


Porter’s plinth is the ugliest box ever (imo), even if technically it’s great (here is the article), I believe they are NOT available commercially and they are very expensive too. Artisan fidelity plinth for Technics is also “just a box” (even if the wood is nice). The ugliest thing on all those plinths is the armboard, I must say I don’t like the armboard on cast iron plinth too. And this is the worst plinth I ever seen in my life.

When it’s expensive it must be beautiful at least! OMA Graphite plinth are beautiful and designed by professional designer with a good taste! The armboards are beautiful (round shape), especially the version with technics drive mounted without square chassis, in my opinion the armboards must be made from the same material as the rest on the plinth and everything must look like one piece. What is the ugliest on the stock Obsidian Technics plinths is the armboard frame and cherry wood in this frame. All the plinths that just imitate the original obsidian design are terrible in my opinion. What is the reason to hide Technics drive lower in the plinth if it can be just on top of the plinth just like this (sp20) or like this (sp10mk2).

All commercially available plinths are extremely expensive from $2k up to $10k (just for the plinth alone).

A custom made plywood plinth should not cost more than $300 in my opinion, veneer with exotic wood is optional, some top quality lacquer is also optional. It can be automotive paint also. Basically a plinth is just a plinth, I would never pay more than $700 for whatever plinth.

This is not Technics, but the plinth design is super stylish (look here) in my opinion and it’s Graphite.

When Technics square chassis is removed this shape of the plinth with round armboards is nice in my opinion.

No its not. the Artisan Fidelity plinth is a sophisticated constrained layer plinth using panzerholz and other materials and includes a drain block for the main bearing.

As always you have nothing to add @dover, and you always arguing about something that everyone know without your remarks. Links posted in all my replies in this thread.

When I said "just the box" I mean the design (the way it look), construction layers pictured in the article I posted earlier in this thread and everyone can see different layers.

No doubt the $10k plinth should work effectively, but it must look good too for this price at least. That was the argument and I explained why.

If you like boxes like this then I doubt you have a good taste. This is another bad example with those ugly baths around the tonearms and the drive pushed down into the plinth. OMA solution is so much better with the armboards on the corners. Their Garrard plinth is so much better (in terms of design) because they do not try to push the Garrard down into the plinth and do not make those bath around the tonearm, you know what I mean? OMA did the same with Garrard plinth and Technics plinth. The argument for a perfect look is to leave the Technics drive on top of the plinth (not trying to push it down) with the arm fixed on the same level (on top of the plinth).They did it, but ONLY after the metal chassis around the platter was completely removed, this is perfect. And OMA designed similar plinth for Technics.

I am not gonna discuss the "sound of the plinth" or the "sound of the drive" with anyone on this forum, this is the most boring discussion. I am happy to discuss design, because some of the most expensive high-end products on the market is almost always the ugliest in terms of design.

its a weetbix sandwich that uses magnetic steel plates, wrapped in thin alumium foil.


The "aluminum plinth" on Luxman PD-444 is not thin and not foil (!), the thickness of aluminum all over the cabinet around the sandwich is nearly 5mm, to see it you have to remove the sideboards, but nearly the same thickness of aluminum used for LUX amps and you can look at this "aluminum foil" (as you call it). The aluminum plinth is not supposed to be a whole piece of aluminum to weight a ton that impossible to ship. However, the Luxman chassis is metal and "armboards" are metal, and slide for armboard is metal, anyway this is not the subject of this post! The OP asked what I use and this is the only reason I mentioned Luxman, because I SOLD TECHNICS more than 3 years ago! You don’t own Luxman turntable and you don’t like Technics or any direct drive, so why you are in this thread ?


No - the plinth in the picture is a slate plinth, not graphite.

Did you ever check the links I posted to OMA site where you can read SLATE PLINTH!? So what you’re arguing about? Everyone can read it’s a slate plinth. BUT "Graphite" (look on this plinth) in my terminology is the color, same as OMA Graphite Mat and Graphite headshell. (it’s not just grey as you can see).

From my conversation with Jonathan (OMA) gerarding "graphite plinth":

"Double layer slate plinths are $3500, custom designed for whatever arm(s) you want to use. Single layer are $2750. Two arm plinths add $750 to either version."

The plinth construction and materials used can materially affect the overall sound of a turntable motor.


If you like ugly looking overprised plinths you can discuss their "perfect sound" with your audiophile friends.

I would rather go to buy more records to spin on my pair of Luxman PD-444 without thinking I have to change the plinth.

Regarding a plinth for SP-10 series I believe a custom made $300 baltic birch plywood plinth is enought. I want to admit that stock plinth for Denon DP-80 or Victor TT-101 are more than enought too, they goes for $300 and can be restored (waxed or veneered) by any pro carpenter.

I do understand that you might struggle to hear any difference with your knackered old 80’s MM’s that you think are state of the art.

I do understand that at your age you might not hear what I hear at all. This is far more important problem than a choice of cartridges. In fact one of my turntable with FR-66fx and FR64s tonearms are for LOMC only.

As a typical retired ex high-end dealer you can continue to brainwash your non existing customers in your dreams that to hear something good they must spend $10k for a plinth and another $10k for a LOMC cartridge. I’ve heard it before. And you are absolutely right that I refused to buy even $2000 plinth for my ex Technics, instead I bought two different PD-444 turntables with built-in plinth and I’m happy. My teak plinth was quite nice to hear everything I want to hear from my analog rig and genuine obsidian plinth wasn’t any better. Technics can be used without plinth on AT616.

You can continue to post your absurd about vintage MM cartridges, but I’ll tell you that when SP-10mkII was in my system my cartridge was this ZYX Premium 4D SB2 (it’s $5k modern LOMC) and Airy 3 with silver coil (another $3k LOMC). At the same time in MM arsenal these two beauties with EPA-100. Am I missed something?


As Salvador Dali said - "It is good taste, and good taste alone, that possesses the power to sterilize and is always the first handicap to any creative functioning" If you actually read my post above I make my own plinths using either ebonised bamboo or engineered stone - nothing like the Woodsong/Artisan Fidelity plinths.


Would be nice to see a picture of your plinth then @dover

I asked:


When SP-10mkII was in my system my cartridge was this ZYX Premium 4D SB2 (it’s $5k modern LOMC) and Airy 3 with silver coil (another $3k LOMC). At the same time in MM arsenal these two beauties with EPA-100. Am I missed something?


You said:

Yes, a decent turntable.

I want to remind you that this is a TECHNICS thread, the OP is happy with fully restore MK3, but you think we’re all missed a decent turntable, you know better as always.

You forgot to tell what is a decent turntable if the Technics SP10mkII or MKIII are not good enough ?
It’s all a matter of taste after all. Someone may like the old lead console made in Japan in the 70’s, but It’s just another very simple metal frame. Back in the 70’s/80’s this company made lead consoles for Sony, Technic, Denon and others. I think it’s nothing special and custom made plywood plinth could be better.

Regarding OMA, again, Most people look at this company as “something beautiful” regardless of price as very few people can afford OMA products. But their plinth priced just like any other premium plinth from well known manufacturers.

Reading a negative posts about OMA I must admit that I have personal experience dealing with them about 5 years ago and my experience is very positive! He’s a dealer or Schroder, Ortofon, Miyajima, Schick, SoundSmith ... I bought my Schick “12 inch tonearm and Ortofon SPU cartridge from OMA for my Technics SP10mk2. Jonathan personally replied to all my email and answered all my questions, it was very helpful. In fact his price eas cheaper than German price for Schick tonearm so it was a very good deal. It was excellent service, no rudeness at all (I have no idea what you talking about @rich121 ), I asked so many questions and got all the answers, Jonathan was very helpful, I even tried to buy his demo Miyajima carts few years later and we tried to negotiate about the price, everything was nice and smooth like it should be. Compared to many other well known dealers I tried to communicate by email at that time asking questions, Jonathan was the best! This my experience with OMA, I had to say that, let’s be truthful.

I can imagine that some people may not like what he think about Direct Drive turntables (his preference is clearly DD and this preference is not popelar in high-end community). Regarding his own products it’s easy to watch his videos where he claimed they are not a typical high end company. So do not expect them to sell you what you can find in a typical high-end store.

Their demo loft is beautiful and some of his speakers, stands, plinths, amps are beautiful and made with a great passion! He’s got a well educated designer or design team that other high-end companies can only dream about.


His stuff is art, it’s nice to have an independent company like OMA today. He’s doing a geat job explaining people on his youtube channel a lot of things about history of audio (horns, tube gear, turntables). He’s doing it not for audiophiles, but for younger people. His showroom in NYC is open and anyone can come, you don’t have to buy! This is great.

@chakster

Of course he was nice to you... you were handing over $$$ and he wanted more of your $$$!


No, he never tried to push anything, he did not even tried to sell me slightly more expensive cartridge (but he could). He was a honest dealer, this is what I like. And believe me I ask question BEFORE I buy anything, not after! Other well know dealers in USA simply ignored my questions if there are more than one question or more than one email.

Conversations and interactions that I was referring to were non-business... they were interactions between ’hobbyists’


Conversation with YOU personally or someone else ? If you don’t have personal experience with OMA you’d better not comment. Some hobbyists here on audiogon are very rude, but it’s a free speech, not their job, everyone can be in a bad mood and everyone has an opinion.

I’m sure there is nothing wrong with the reputation of OMA as a company, they got their customers and they got their unique product to offer on the market. Let’s be honest!


P.S. I remember companies like B&O, today rich people are buying them because of unique design for their interior. Unique design cost money. OMA is not B&O, so I believe it's a combination of sound and vintage oriented design. But I never heard their speakers in real life, I know people who tried them in NY showroom.  
This is a good chuckle.


@au_lait

Do you know who is the author?


Because if you ever read this Romy The Cat blog you can see the attitude of this Russian guy a bit better. For example, you can simply read his opinion on Denon 103 and I’m sure so many audiophiles will be offended :) There are more in his blog.

What I don’t really understand is why someone criticize other people Sound System in public after a personal visit, he even posted something about Jonathan’s wife and classical music, but not everyone is into classical music in 21st century! He posted a picture of the vintage horns from the actual Oswald Mil house in Pennsylvania, not the OMA hons from his NYC showroom!

As I said let’s be honest. Jonathan clearly explained in this video that he filled up his house with vintage tube electronics, horns, turntables and all that stuff for his own delights! He’s a collector of vintage analog gear first and then a founder of his own company. But I believe his real passion is vintage analog gear. He’s also a film maker.

He explained his background on OMA site, it’s an interesting story and many images of the manufacturing process of OMA equipment etc. Actually, far more interesting than reading a blog of that audiophile Romy The Cat who can’t even hire a web designer to make his posts readable and his blog navigation more user friendly, but Romy The Cat, who listen to classical music, criticize people who design beautiful things and running the biggest showroom open for public in NYC (everyone can visit).

The process requires re-locating the on/off switch and the speed selector switch to some other outboard location, so it is not for the amateur.
 

I remember Technics remote control with same on/off button for mkII version
Yes, those old Japanese Toho cast iron plinths are an eye candy, they also made their own tonearm btw.

So the cast iron has been used since the ’70s for Technics plinth, it was 59.5 lbs (27kg). The price for TM-10 for Technics was 230 000 YEN as stated in the catalog.

Just watched this with better view of OMA Cast Iron plinth, and to my surprise Jonathan (at 5:10) said that there is a CRYSTALLINE GRAPHITE in this grey iron formula.  
Cast iron contains a high percentage of carbon, that's why when you machine the dam stuff you get so dirty. He is just trying to make it sound like something super special. Makes me laugh. That part of Pennsylvania has quite a few pattern shops and small foundry's, or at least whats left of them. If he worked with a small mom and pop pattern shop, than the cost of that pattern would not have been that expensive, it's a few days worth of work at most. Getting the grey iron casting poured is usually quoted on a per pound basis if you supply the patterns. Very cheap. The machine work is very straight forward, nothing fancy. What blows my mind is the 10K price tag he puts on those bases.

@billwojo business as usual, cast iron is even cheaper in Russia this is why I pay attention to cast iron plinths, but way before OMA made their own I discovered vintage TOHO cast iron plinths online. I don't have technics Sp10mkII anymore. But Toho plinth for Victor TT-101 is interesting (not so big and not so heavy).  

Claims the SP10R is significantly better than the SP10mk3 - LOL - of course the scarcity and age of SP10mk3’s would have nothing to do with their opinion !


I must admit he did not mention MK3, he said SP10. Turbtable drive in his old slate plinth on the right in his video is MK2 (not mk3) and SP10R is definitely better than mk2 @dover  ?

You have to remember their market is lunatic billionaire New Yorkers who have never heard a decent stereo, but want something unique - in the looks department. Their mobile ring tone is probably bling bling



Yes and No. Steve Guttenberg interviewed one of his customer, it’s about new speakers (not turntables), but the guy is definitely not a lunatic and he owned so many different high-end speakers before he stopped on Jonathan’s (OMA) Fleetwood Deville high efficient speakers.

Other people explained better who are the people behind Fleetwood Sound Company (OMA) in this topic. Not everyone is so skeptical, especially people who actually heard those.


That Toho plinth for the Victor is interesting but I don't like stand alone arm pods.


me too, you will find one Toho arm pod in this system