DeoxIT on cables/Jacks?


Have a bottle of deoxIT D5. Is it a goid idea to use it on the rca/speaker jacks of a 10 year old amp? Also thinking of doing every rca/speaker wire leads? Any audio improvement?
deanshias
If there is a change, it will be positive. So why not?
When you consider the infinitesimal electrical issues that ultimately have an affect sound quality. A clean electrical path seems like it would be something to do regardless.
Be prepared. When you do it, it will sound different. I bought the entire three part Deoxit kit, and when I was finished, I did not like the way my system sounded for several days. 
I do still believe in the practice of cleaning with these products, but it does have an initial sonic effect that I don't like.
@frogman - +1

Thank you very much for the tutorial. That’s pretty close to how I have been using deoxIT so confirmation is good. Detailed instruction like that is very helpful. 
Matt
there are two types of contact cleaner: contact cleaner or contact cleaner/lubricant.

no lubricant for non-moving parts

lubricant for circular moving parts like potentiometers.

Rockers: nothing if not noisy when in position, there is often foam, felt, dust barriers .... that cleaners might dissolve. avoid compressed air in the rockers for the same reason.

Avoid compressed air or chemicals behind glass and other faceplates that have dust barriers, OR, plan on replacing those dust barriers, not too hard.

Old type rca jacks, like my McIntosh mx110z Tube Tuner/Preamp, the jacks corrode, you easily get l/r balance issues. You clean them, I did (very fine steel wool and very fine emery cloth) better for a while, but they begin to corrode again. Audio Classics just replaced all my mx110z's rca jacks with new gold plated ones, oh happy day.

The old McIntosh rca jacks are very slightly smaller diameter, it is best to get connectors that are tight, or locking connectors.

I just bought two of these video cables; six nine's copper (99.9999)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/122028614401

peeled em apart, made myself 3 pairs of interconnects. Each pair it's own color locking connector, and just mark both ends of the right side (red permanent marker or tape, anything that won't fall off).

My method of marking cables: anything with information (stripe, factory printed info, my mark) is right or positive; no info is left or negative.

btw, when making your own long twisted cables, you don't need to keep flipping them over in the same twist direction: just twist and tape together every 9" or so; a few taped joints until tension develops, then twist the other way for a few feet, repeat: much easier.