So done with audiophile fuses


The journey started with a medium priced ($50) fuse in my power supply.  A failed rectifier tube blew that one out.  Not a fuse problem.  Next up was a blue fuse in my pre amp.  It blew and was not caused by a pre amp problem.  Apparently they sometimes are more sensitive and it was replaced by an orange fuse two values higher.  Things were going along fine.  I replaced the pre amp with a newer version of the pre amp and it has the same fuse value.  Five months latter (today) I turn on the pre amp and nothing.  it's a five month old pre amp so I suspected that it was the fuse.  Sure enough, I replaced it with a ceramic Littelfuse of the lower correct value it works fine.  No more wasting my money on unstable fuses for me.     
goose
jimob,

The first failure was with a fuse in a pre amp that I bought at the stated value.  After that on failed I installed a fuse that was two values higher in the same pre amp.  It worked fine until I sold it (about 6 months).  I removed the fuse before I sold it and installed it in my new pre amp that had the same value.  It worked for about 4 months and failed.  So my test was with two different pre amps from the same manufacture.  I never had an issue with the stock fuse for years in the original pre amp.  
I would never be comfortable using a fuse larger than what the manufacturer recommends.
Don't have a dog in this hunt but need to correct something.

How can a fuse ever be better than the wire into the holder and and the wire out? It's a physical impossibility and it's all in the mind y'know.
The fuse doesn't have to be better than the wires leading to it. It just has to be better than the fuse it replaces.

J.Chip
2016 I purchase 3 pairs of class Ds to figure out what I like.

2 were Wyred4sound SX1000. ICE modules. I was using them and ONE blew a fuse. Two three time this happened. I'm really not liking the sound. Something is wrong...

I took the top off and there is a fuse inside on the board, along with the the inline VAC fuse. I remove the fuse it has crap all over it. I get new fuses, put a dab of silicone on the tube and contact enhancer on the tips. I clean the heck out of the holder and check the solder joints. They used NON LEAD solder. OK I remove it real quick, resolder the holder and BYPASSED the inline fuse with a piece of copper. I added a 5 amp breaker or 3 what ever it was.

I was just amazed how that amp that was harsh, and just lacked what I was looking for in an amp. 30 minutes of listening to small planars and you were worn out.. IT CHANGED.. Not a little either. Like someone took the HEAVY blanket off the speaker.

I had to turn the volume up to hear clear mids and the highs just fell off. There was a harsh 10k bump from the SS and the order of harmonics..

THEY just Sucked.  They don't now. :-)

There was something about that fuse inside. Review after review.. The ICE (R) revision fixed that issue.. LOL So did I... The R was just all the rage and still is... I don't know... I like mine. I paid 500.00 because they were SO BAD... LOL

They actually sound as good as the Nords I own.. Just a little tone control tweak. 15.00 dollars worth of parts.. They will hit 1000+ watts too.. Pretty serious modules for their age..

Did the fuse make the difference? I know it stopped the fuse from blowing and made ONE amp sound better.. Guess what? 2 weeks later I did the right side... A dirty fuse and holder and an upgrade to a circuit breaker... 15.00 well spent again. They like good PC too. NOW....

Regards
I just replaced all the breakers in my AC panel with solid 2 AWG copper - so far so good 🤷‍♀️