So done with audiophile fuses


The journey started with a medium priced ($50) fuse in my power supply.  A failed rectifier tube blew that one out.  Not a fuse problem.  Next up was a blue fuse in my pre amp.  It blew and was not caused by a pre amp problem.  Apparently they sometimes are more sensitive and it was replaced by an orange fuse two values higher.  Things were going along fine.  I replaced the pre amp with a newer version of the pre amp and it has the same fuse value.  Five months latter (today) I turn on the pre amp and nothing.  it's a five month old pre amp so I suspected that it was the fuse.  Sure enough, I replaced it with a ceramic Littelfuse of the lower correct value it works fine.  No more wasting my money on unstable fuses for me.     
goose

Showing 5 responses by oldhvymec

They work, they just cost to much.

"Do you walk away, from a fool and his money?" The Beatles

Well do you?

The trick is to keep the silly things working and still have fire protection AT the equipment.

Remove the fuse and put a solid piece of silver or copper wire in its place.

Put the gear with the new, improved, upgraded goodie in metal wash basin just larger than the piece of the gear.

NOW if it catches on fire you can just add a little wood and you got yourself a fire pit in the front room..

1. The fuse is to protect the manufacture from being sued if their equipment fails UN SAFE, not SAFE. FIRE!
There is a potential for a fire.. I NEVER downplay a FIRE.

Saying that, I will still have fun if there just happens to be one, a FIRE that is.. :-)

2. The fuse from the manufacture side is a doubled edged sword.
It protect his equipment from over amperage, BUT it is also a point of intermittent failure.

How would you like to be fumbling with a fuse AND it was your O2 supply?

People will spend 20K on an amp and then cheap out on HOW they power the silly thing. WHY? Think beyond the cost of the fuse and to a solution that actually WORKS...

I ask WHY all the fuss over a STUPID fuse when all you have to do is think of it "as if" it were your O2 supply.

Replace the "Point of Intemittent Failure" with a breaker that won’t make SPARKS and you have a lot better solution..

OR modify an existing fuse with a dab of silicone on the outside for a little vibration control and a dab of contact enhancer on the contact points..

More than one way NOT to spend a LOT money and get a better result.

Regards

jasonbourne52
481 posts
05-09-2021 4:33am
Contact enhancer! Will that be mustard or mayonaisse on that fuse?


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I'll offer this to YOU.

IF you don't use the fuses because you have, AND have an opinion, WHY they didn't work for you, speak up.

If you want to mock AND offer nothing... MOVE ON...

I suppose any ol' cable will work fine too..

When you're ready to learn let me know, I'll be more than happy to share and see if we can get you up to speed. 

I just ask that you be somewhat sober when you post.

BTW which end does the mustard go on? The IN or OUT of the fuse?

I suppose that makes no difference either..

AND mayonnaise doesn't work on the OUT end of the fuse only on the IN side of the fuse. EVERYONE on AudioGoN  knows that.. :-)

Keep up fella..
2016 I purchase 3 pairs of class Ds to figure out what I like.

2 were Wyred4sound SX1000. ICE modules. I was using them and ONE blew a fuse. Two three time this happened. I'm really not liking the sound. Something is wrong...

I took the top off and there is a fuse inside on the board, along with the the inline VAC fuse. I remove the fuse it has crap all over it. I get new fuses, put a dab of silicone on the tube and contact enhancer on the tips. I clean the heck out of the holder and check the solder joints. They used NON LEAD solder. OK I remove it real quick, resolder the holder and BYPASSED the inline fuse with a piece of copper. I added a 5 amp breaker or 3 what ever it was.

I was just amazed how that amp that was harsh, and just lacked what I was looking for in an amp. 30 minutes of listening to small planars and you were worn out.. IT CHANGED.. Not a little either. Like someone took the HEAVY blanket off the speaker.

I had to turn the volume up to hear clear mids and the highs just fell off. There was a harsh 10k bump from the SS and the order of harmonics..

THEY just Sucked.  They don't now. :-)

There was something about that fuse inside. Review after review.. The ICE (R) revision fixed that issue.. LOL So did I... The R was just all the rage and still is... I don't know... I like mine. I paid 500.00 because they were SO BAD... LOL

They actually sound as good as the Nords I own.. Just a little tone control tweak. 15.00 dollars worth of parts.. They will hit 1000+ watts too.. Pretty serious modules for their age..

Did the fuse make the difference? I know it stopped the fuse from blowing and made ONE amp sound better.. Guess what? 2 weeks later I did the right side... A dirty fuse and holder and an upgrade to a circuit breaker... 15.00 well spent again. They like good PC too. NOW....

Regards
Using a different, higher value fuse to get better performance from an amplifier is stupid. You might burn your house down...from what we have learned through electrical engineering.

Is that understandable to you? It’s not that hard to figure out if you’re actually paying attention.

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SO IF a fuse or a peanut, or a dried TURD, gave an amp better performance, that is NOT OK?

WHY?

Why on earth is it not OK to make an amp sound better with a DRIED TURD?

Add anything in the world in the stupid fuse slot it makes no difference to ME.. I just want to know if it works better.

What does "WORK BETTER" actually mean to me?

It sounds better. NOT I think it sounds better, it sounds better.

Can an improved PC and protection circuit be improved from factory?
HECK yes it can.. What do you think the cream of the CROP design power amps?

Do you see Pass, Curl, Cary, Mcintosh, or any of THOSE folks coming out of NASA, or NEC, or the FDA, or Brain or Heart surgeon Professorships? WTF.

Do you really think stereo STUFF is all that complicated? I’m just an ol mechanic.. This $hit is pretty simple to figure out AND make sound better. Much less build it. I can honestly say an ol flathead ford is more complicated in terms of engineering than any amp that was EVER made...

NOW think about a new dielectric power plant (BART). The injector system has 100 times the sophistication of the most talked about stereo SYSTEM on the planet. The whole dog gone stereo. From the wall plug until it hits your ears and comes out the other side (FOR SOME).

Some folks are funny.. I crack myself up all the time.

BUT when I really want a chuckle, I wait for the Eeyore crowd to grow a pair and start jaw jackin’.

Like I’ve said, sure wish I could have worked with some of you folks, sure would have been a hoot.. Would have learned to pay attention if nothing else. I’d blow something up to get a fools attention.. What ever it took to get the DUMMIES attention..

M80s in the Port-A-Lue is a GREAT teaching aid for a heard headed TALKER, NOT WORKER.

Try it, if you don’t like it SEND IT BACK and get every mumpin' dime back and you have braggin' rights to say they are JUNK.

The rest of the Eeyore crowd, who cares what they say?

They have NEVER used an aftermarket fuse.

I know, ask a shoe salesman if he thinks your HEART sound correct. Here give it a listen..

I LISTEN to those who have used them.. NOT TALKED about them..

THEN a buddy GAVE me a 8-10 of blues, blacks and orange SRs

I used ACME golds, SR were an improvement..
So was the 6.00 ACME.. A breaker whipped them both.. in power amps..

Regards
Like I should have said said, "To each his own TURD"

All turds are not created equal. Crappy outlook!

No bare footin' in the amp area!

Wash hands thoroughly after TURD swap.. :-)

Regards