Anyone know if JL Audio Fathom series v1 and v2 will pair?

I own 4 JL F-113 subs. Only one is the V2. The V2 has more output.
I am using mine as stereo pairs connecting the front R sub to the R rear and etc. for the left channel. I have found that using them all as Masters and EQ’ing each individually in there own position, is the best overall.

ozzy

@ozzy thanks. I have a v2 F110 that I’m going to try to integrate with the v1 I already have. I’ll try the master/slave just to see how it works but I’ll also try to eq them separately if that doesn’t work out. I’m curious what happened when and if you tried daisy-chaining the subs together. Thanks again. 

The A.R.O. automatically equalizes the rooms single highest peak in the bass response. I believe the D.A.R.O. equalizes multiple frequency bands within the bass response. The only manual adjustments are the Phase and Polarity prior and Level Setting and the E.L.F to taste after the Optimization.
Refer to the JL Audio CR-1 manual for more detailed manually adjustable settings using the suggested CR-1.

In a room previously crawl test mapped we located the F113 in the rooms second largest mode and ran the subs monaurally L/R summed.         
Using the Velodyne DD-18's Room Optimization we were able to see the graphic affect of the A.R.O. We then slaved the F113 from Velodyne's Auto EQ eight frequency bands and nine Manual adjustable parameters. 

While the 13" F series was stunningly every bit as potent as the 18" Velodyne it benefited a great deal in the crossover region by comparison.
The room and personal taste will dictate placement, daisy chaining, mono or stereo. 

As a result of my short time with the F113 I currently use two DD-12 Plus' daisy chained in summed monaural. I think your gonna love it.

When I tried daisy chaining master/slave as you say the subs together, the newer V2 version is louder than the V1. And, by that method what you are getting is the sum of all. Rather than the best individually.
But, try it both ways.


ozzy