Does "ripping" quality improve if you.........


....eat BEANS with......Oh, NEVER MIND! :-)

Hey all,
On the REAL point! I've used tweak-items like the Bedini Clarifer, Nordost ECO anti-static spray, and with positive but slight lesser results the the Green Pen trick. And I've noticed an immediate improvement with ALL of these on doing an A/B comparison on CD's without, them with, the particular tweak.
Question is: Does using any of these, (or others), make a difference/improvement to the sound quality, when a CD is RIPPED to your hard-drive.
Anyone a/b'd this yet?
Your comments, from actual experience AND any theories, is appreciated.
Happy Listening!
myraj
Edesilva,
"Virtually everyone has had CDs that are unreadable or skip in even high end transports."
yes, I can believe this. However, I do not believe that this is an error during data read (which is what I wrote in my post. An error during data read implies that the transport recognized the CD/CD-R/CD-RW, etc & is able to read the recorded data). What you are pointing out is a disk recognition error. Indeed, it is true that certain consumer CD transports will not read certain CD-Rs & CD-RWs while a computer (CD-ROM) drive will routinely read such disks.
What I implied in my original post was: once the transport recognizes the disk & commences reading the recorded data, the errors during read are virtually zero for even el-cheapo transports.
Hope that this clarifies.
Actually, I was talking about CDs bought off the shelf. I've got several CDs that won't play in my DV50s, my Theta David, or my Sony. But, I was able to use EAC to create WAV files that play beautifully--actually, I was able to burn replacement CDs that play beautifully as well.

Again, I think transports are prone to read errors that can be overcome using CD extraction.

I notice differences on the CD's when I A/B after different treatments.

I was most surprised by the difference between CD's after I did a test in freezing discs. First I would place some blank CD-R's in my freezer for 48-72 hours (it was suggested that doing this would be the equivalent of about 80% of what cryo does). Then I would take the original CD and record to a blank unfrozen disc. Next I would record the original unfrozen disc to a formerly frozen CD-R. Lastly I would put the original CD in the freezer for 48-72 hours and after removing them I'd would record to a frozen disc.

After all that I could tell the difference in quality between all the CD-R's, frozen & unfrozen, even on a car CD player. Go figure. Now I always place new CD-R's and DVD-R's in the freezer for a few days before recording on them.
Edesilva,
"Actually, I was talking about CDs bought off the shelf. I've got several CDs that won't play in my DV50s, my Theta David, or my Sony."

Now, this is interesting! I've never had this happen to me w/ CD originals bought off the shelf! And, my CD players are very much older than your DV50 - my Harmon/Kardon CDP is 11 yrs old & my Wadia 861 is circa 1998. They both read every single original CD & CD-R that I've thrown at it. I have 1 CD-RW that the Wadia will not read but I expected that. I haven't tried this CD-RW in the H/K but I sort-of expect similar results as the Wadia.
You have *never* bought a bad CD? Wow. I think, in a collection of about 1600 or so, there are probably 3 with at least one back track. Still, that is only what, like 0.2%? Not too bad...