plinth for tts8000

Dear  @anthonya :   the @petg60 is good advise.

The TB2000 plinth is really good and specific for that TT , is very well damped and handled 2 tonearms:

https://www.audioscope.net/sony-tts8000-sony-tb2000-p-2239.html?products_id=2239

https://audio-heritage.jp/SONY-ESPRIT/etc/tb-2000.html

Maybe @lewm could helps about, he made it for his DP-80 a slate plinth and could be a good option too.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.

I actually made, or had made for me, slate-based plinths for the DP80, the Lenco idler, and the SP10 Mk3.  Before that, I also made a slate plinth for an SP10 Mk2, now sold along with the Mk2.  These projects were done one by one, not all at the same time. I purchased slate slabs cut to my specifications from a quarry in PA.  (Details available upon request.) I then identified a water-jet company in York, PA, who did all the cutting for me and helped with programming their machine to make the precision cuts required to accommodate this or that turntable chassis.  After that, I drilled the holes for tt chassis mounting bolts and tonearm mounting, myself.  (Except for the Mk3 plinth, I did not create conventional removable tonearm mounts; the tonearms mount directly on the top surface of the slate slabs that act as plinth.  This was to save effort and also for structural reasons.) All this required a lot of driving back and forth to PA from my home in MD, and a lot of work in my garage.  I must have been obsessed back then; I don't think I have the energy or the enthusiasm to take on such projects these days.

Slate seems to work very well as a plinth, but in the case of the SP10 Mk3, I also added a massive wood base made of solid Cherrywood.  It is my subjective impression that the wood base made the SP10 sound even more neutral than it already did using slate alone.  The SP10 Mk3 plinth in total weighs close to 100 lbs. So I believe there is some real benefit to the CLD approach.  In the case of the OP, I would suggest you consider putting the aluminum layer in between the two layers of different woods.  That might provide a better CLD effect than stacking two kinds of wood with alu underneath.  But really, who knows?  Just my guess.  One thing I do believe: MDF is never the best choice for a TT plinth.

The Link will take you to a TTS 8000 Thread.
The TTS 8000 in question is one of two owned by the Lenco OP.
Similar to my own situation.
I have commissioned a rebuild of a Bearing with Modern Materials for one of my TTS's from a Engineer known for there workmanship with TT's . 
The OP is now having their TTS done in a similar manner from the same Engineer, they are nearly ready to receive their TTS with the New Materials in use.
I have too many TT's so asked for the OP's TTS to be Prioritised over my own one.

The A/B reports should be good to receive, as both the TTS's have Panzerholz Plinths,  and can use the same Rack/Support Set Up,
along with the same Tonearm > Cartridge.
The only obvious difference will be that one Plinth is of a very high standard of finish with the added veneer. 

There might be something stimulating in the Exotic Veneered Plinth to inspire the OP of this thread.

  

https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=33328.30

@lewm & @rauliruegas

I know both of you are very knowledgeable about TT’s in general. However After doing a lot of testing with various footer materials, there are materials like glass, Metals & Stone which raise red flags to me. IF you need to gain High freq. clarity those are among the best. I’ve never needed in, in my system and have fought brightness in my system. So I can’t imagine a plinth made out of either material (Though VPI sandwiched Alum in the Scoutmaster I had). I suppose either material can be damped and if so, fine. But a full on slate? Though it is a soft porous, does it need damping? I respect your experience do you believe it worked for you because your system needed the extra clarity? Just curious. Not meant as flames.

EDIT After re-reading the OP I notice he said the MDF Plinth was dark and dead. I understand that and maybe the hard metal or stone is in order. A tone wood may also be in order from my experience. I would still be interested in Lew & Raul"s answer to my question because my experience has been limited to my own system. 

Mass does nothing to isolate a turntable from environmental rumble. Not concrete floors or granite tops or heavy plinths. The only way to isolate a turntable from the environment is a stable suspension tuned to less than 3 Hz. Such a suspension isolates the turntable from everything above 3 Hz. Anyone can make a solid plinth look good. The trick is to make a suspended one look good. Avid does a good job as does Basis. The SME's are sort of industrial but very impressive in person. The Dohmann is an acquired taste. The Sota more or less classic. 
Lewm has done a lot of work with slate and drilling holes in slate is not easy. It chips very easily. One could make a suspended slate turntable.
You can suspend anything.
Put a seismometer app on your phone. Light up the app and place your phone on a table. Tap the table lightly with a finger and you will see the needle twitch. Right now I have my phone on the desk. I see every key stroke on the phone. The desk is on a concrete floor. I bang the floor with a foot and it registers on the phone. I just opened and closed the door to the office and that registered on the phone. The lightest tap of a finger registers on the phone. You think your rack is solid? Check it out with this phone app. You are in for a big surprise. Put the phone on your platter and start tapping around. Can you jump up and down in front of the turntable without it registering? What happens when your refrigerator compressor starts up or the washing machine.