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Is this how a Subwoofer Crossover is supposed to work?

I bought two Starke SW12 subwoofers that I installed.  So far I'm not particularly happy with them.  They are way too loud even with the volume set almost to off.  More importantly, I'm having trouble integrating them into my system and I'm wondering if that is because their crossover setting is really functioning as I understand a crossover should. Attached please find measurements from Room Equalization Wizard with SPL graphs of the two subs (no speakers) taken at my listening position with the crossover set at 50 Hz, 90 Hz, and 130 Hz. Ignore the peaks and dips which I assume are due to room nodes.  All of those settings appear to actually have the same crossover point of 50 Hz. All that changes is the slope of the rolloff in sound levels. This isn't how I thought a properly designed crossover was supposed to work.  I thought the frequency the levels would start to roll off would change, i.e. flat to 50 hz then a sharp drop, flat to 90 hz then a sharp drop, etc. etc..  But Starke says this is how a subwoofer crossover is supposed to work.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8x4cr32pagwg48i/Two%20Subs%20Different%20Crossover%20Points%20No%20Speaker...
Any experts on here with an opinion about this?  Is it possible to buy an inexpensive active crossover that I could use in place of what is built into these subs?
pinwa
erik_squires
15,877 posts
 
Ahhh.  Of course, an XLR to RCA adapter generally does the same thing, but it also unbalances the line.
gp4jesus
36 posts
 
1. At the top your list must be to deploy a single solution to control system volume you’ve been presented w/one or more to date. 

2. Either
  a. replace your existing subs or
  b. find an external XO* w/some DSP to aid in room integration 
*DBX Drive Rack PA 3 - way or PX - 2 way

I realize I committed a sin suggesting DSP in this system. I’m sure others will have better ideas. 
The “admission $”, used, is insignificant compared to what you have spent so far. If my solution sets you back instead of move you forward, you’ll have little trouble selling it.  
BTW I use 3 DRPAs and 1 DRPX to tri-amp 3/5 channels & integrate 4/5 subs into my 5.5 HT. From adding the first DRPA to the DRPX, my system moved forward every time. While your doin’ 2Ch VS HT & on a different level to boot, I’m satisfied for the moment... But that is for another day. 
Happy New Year and tweaking
stevencason
80 posts
 
If you are using line level input try using speaker level input if it is available on your subs.
shalommorgan
28 posts
 
I’ve spent the last several weeks attempting to integrate 3 separate subwoofers into my listen room along with my Moab speakers. From what I understand, an external crossover unit like the JL Audio CR-1 is essential to getting accurate time alignment between subs and main speakers. This essentially is a two system where everything above 90hz, for example, goes to the main speakers, and everything below 90hz is handled exclusively by sub(s). I don’t have such a unit and simply used several practical techniques to blend subs as well I could with my Moabs. If I can add anything to this thread it’s that integrating multiple subs can be extremely beneficial. And yes adding subs with the Moab has dramatically improved my low frequency room response, bass depth, sharpness and overall system accuracy. All the best. 

Happy New Year to all.

desktopguy
337 posts
 
I could be wrong, but it looks like you are running 2 subs in parallel with 2 mains (ie, mains are full-signal; subs are supposedly filtered out above the crossover frequency).

If I'm correct, the single most assured/competent resolution would be a good electronic crossover. I use the Marchand XM66 with variable crossover frequency. Slopes on the high- and low-pass crossovers are 24 dB/octave and the crossover "hump" (overlap) can be precisely dialed in. This is a very transparent, analog means to take a single RCA/single-ended input (from preamp) and split it into 2 output RCA pairs, one going to the subs (L goes to one powered sub, R goes to the other powered); and the other going to the amplifier that drives the main speakers.

It totally works. 
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