Capacitors for HP filters in tube amps recommendations?

I pulled WIMA MKG-4 .47@ 250v in a VTL 300 Deluxe, replaced them with a really good VCap. LOL, two months later thinking it was a breakin thing, pulled them and put the USED WIMA caps back in.. Sounded wonderful again. Crazy I'm with you they are a great cap, my first Watt B5 is packed with WIMA, My new Mcintosh PACKED with WIMA. High quality, LOW prices in comparison... 5.00 USD, Vcaps 100.00 USD at the time..

Regards

Dear @oldhvymec : Wima comews not only in your electronics mentioned or in my Levinson monobloks but comes too in very expensive/cost no object high end electronics:

https://dartzeel.com/en/

https://s3-eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/dartzeel/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/30104100/nhb-108-model-2-upper-front-735x470.png

http://www.theaudiobeat.com/visits/ch_precision_upgrade_addition.htm

or in this 250K+ amplifier:

https://www.dandagostino.com/products/relentless-monoblock.php

http://cdn.dandagostino.com/images/products/relentless_monoblock_3.jpg


Passive high-end/boutique parts as caps are only the snake oil we " high end " audiophiles are looking for. All of them are full of " nice " colorations when Wima humble ones are true signatureless and harmless caps to truly honor MUSIC.

Differences between high-end audiophiles and real MUSIC's lovers are like the differences between Duelund and Wima caps where obviously Wima is for the music's lovers.

Over 40+ year in audio I just learned what I said in that last statement and I did it through first hand experiences.


R.

Well, everyone's "first hand experience" will be different. Wima makes excellent industrial caps. I used them in my Spectral DMC 10 rebuild as the final output coupling caps and they sounded good. But the Mundorf silver gold oils sounded much better in the DMC 10 by comparison. If there really was no difference (or the WIMA was superior) I doubt if Mundorf would continue to get the prices they charge over the Wima. As Nelson Pass states, audiophiles vote with their wallet.

I can't see ANY poly propylene cap out performing a teflon cap like the VH. This is quite commonly accepted and reinforced in reviews like the Humble Homemade  Cap tests. What a manufacturer uses in his product may be the result of a number of factors, sound quality being only one. Costs, size and availability may be others. For example, Bryston uses an electrolytic cap in the output of their BDA products, much to my chagrin. Speaking with their engineers, they "reassured" me that this cap was chosen from listening tests. My own tests with that cap removed proved they were sadly mistaken. The BDA sounded much better with that cap removed. BTW, Bryston only uses this cap to remove the very small DC offset, no other reason.

The Dahlquist DQ-LP1 crossover used a passive HP section.      It’s manual contains a chart (and formula) that you may find of interest.     https://sites.google.com/site/mpbarney/home/dahlquist-dq-lp1                When I was using my modded version, Michael Percy was my go-to guy, for Polypropylenes, Polystyrenes, etc, that he’d match to 1%, plus: a wide variety of other nice, parts/pieces/materials.      His service and expertise were consistently excellent.      Can’t swear that he’s still in business, since it’s been years, but- his site’s still up: https://www.percyaudio.com/Catalog.pdf         Personally; I never paralleled capacitors, unless they were identical, to avoid any possible time-constant disparities.

Personally; I never paralleled capacitors, unless they were identical, to avoid any possible time-constant disparities.

That's not a concern... capacitors in parallel will just sum in value (like resistors in series)... the source and load won't see any difference. In fact there are good reasons to parallel capacitors. It's easier to match the values for left and right channels (more combinations) plus statistically you'll get a tighter tolerance than specification (although you'll need to parallel quite a few to make much difference). You can achieve higher capacitance than is commonly available for a particular dielectric (I have used 5 x 10uF wima for DC blocking). Also multiple smaller packages will have a larger surface area than a single large package so heat dissipation is better.
If you want to go down the route of matching your own for around $25 you can get a cap meter that will measure 1pF to 20,000uF although you might want to factor in a few precision caps to use for calibration.