Recent retip(canti also) Dude where did my soundstage width go


I'm trying to not get worked up because it's a huge trade off. I've put 10hours on it so far. Crisper and more detailed. There's some bass on a couple jazz records that I know and that I very thrilled about. But, everything is bunched up between speakers comparably. In anybody's experience will my Grado Reference1 open back up.  I've not done this before and I'm kinda thinking this is the side of my "new" cart that I'm gonna have to learn to live with. I was warned by plenty of researching that it would change and be a different cart but in my optimism I didn't realize a better (boron cantilever/micro ridge stylus) replacing a previously considered lower quality cantilever/stylus would turn out to be disappointing. Thanks

128x128fourwnds
fourwinds,  Just to clarify, azimuth is NOT about channel balance.  It is about crosstalk, the degree to which L channel information leaks into the R channel, and vice-versa.  This phenomenon has a lot to do with the illusion of stage width that the system can convey.  I've never owned nor played with the Foz, but it does seem that many end users use it incorrectly (either that or many units are faulty) so as to end up with inaccurate azimuth adjustment and therefore poor crosstalk characteristics, which leads to a narrow sound stage.  I have read, for one thing, that the battery in the Foz needs to be kept fresh at all times, for accurate readings.  But if the Foz is telling you that your azimuth has to be tilted way off of top dead center (top surface of cartridge or headshell at a 90 degree angle to the LP surface), then I suspect it's readout is not trustworthy.

Just for fun, you might try setting your azimuth to 90 degrees empirically (see above), ignoring the Foz.  Then have a listen.

By the way, radical changes in azimuth have little effect on channel balance and adjusting azimuth is not the way to "fix" channel imbalance.
Setup may be your problem.

I have read that it is not correct to equalize crosstalk, especially for premium cartridges. If memory serves, SoundSmith writes most convincingly of this. I set up optically, then use a well modulated (loud) NM record that distorts on one channel, and adjust until the distortion goes away. Then I listen for distortion on the other channell.

I also get precise about mounting torque. I use a German torque screwdriver. 


Lewm, thanks for the heads up on a difference between crosstalk and channel imbalance. I did eventually do just as you suggested and set cart by eye and used the Foz to get left and right readings off the test record as close as I could before the tedium wore through me. I achieved it by aligning cartridge in head shell with the lines of the Feikert and then checking with Foz output readings. This not the way it's supposed to be used but it makes sense that if the cantilever is not dead on there will be a channel imbalance or is it crosstalk, I'm not clear on that. I concur on the battery needing to be fresh it makes a difference. 

At this moment I do hear a change in regards to stage width especially when I turn it up. I was wondering if stylus profile is behind the wider presentation of my Grado. Anyhoo all is now much more clear above where I would usually stop on the volume knob. This is really allowing the music to fill up my space. Is the crosstalk right - I've long thought my room played a role in a perceived imbalance. Maybe it's been cross talk and an improperly aligned cantilever(?) or azimuth. I can say the width is coming and along with it a joy. I'm having to get up way to quick to flip a side or change a record. Good stuff. 

@terry9 
Thanks for your input. 
is is there a correct amount of torque to put on head shell screws? Do you remember where you saw the soundsmith article?

back to the music



@fourwnds 

Yes, there is a correct torque, which is pretty much dependent on your cartridge model. Start at the low end and increase by 0.02Nm to optimize.  I'm taking this from a posting by a Linn engineer, who said something like:
Plastic bodies: about 0.2 Nm
Metal mounts: 0.4 to 0.6.
These seem to be dry figures. I prefer to very lightly lube the nuts - if you are certain they are lubed, it's too much. Just a tiny bit of lubrication makes the whole process smoother and more repeatable, and hence, more accurate. 

For lightly lubed nuts, reduce the torque by 1/3. Thus my own results were: Koetsu RSP 0.32 Nm, and Mayajima Zero (which is all wood) 0.25.

Try the SoundSmith site for the article.

Good luck!
Awesome @terry9. Tightening down the bolts and then loosening just enough so as not to completely throw off what progress toward the goal was really awkward and is what I imagine a zen excercise in composure and patience. Or analog bucket to hell. Anyway enjoying the ride. Can see why streaming is so appealing from this perspective. 

Can an you provide a link or point me in direction toward a site you like for the German screwdriver. Be really nice to have that business of cartridge mounting a bit less haphazardish. 

Will ll look up other on Soundsmith site. Thanks