Recent retip(canti also) Dude where did my soundstage width go


I'm trying to not get worked up because it's a huge trade off. I've put 10hours on it so far. Crisper and more detailed. There's some bass on a couple jazz records that I know and that I very thrilled about. But, everything is bunched up between speakers comparably. In anybody's experience will my Grado Reference1 open back up.  I've not done this before and I'm kinda thinking this is the side of my "new" cart that I'm gonna have to learn to live with. I was warned by plenty of researching that it would change and be a different cart but in my optimism I didn't realize a better (boron cantilever/micro ridge stylus) replacing a previously considered lower quality cantilever/stylus would turn out to be disappointing. Thanks

128x128fourwnds

Showing 5 responses by terry9

Setup may be your problem.

I have read that it is not correct to equalize crosstalk, especially for premium cartridges. If memory serves, SoundSmith writes most convincingly of this. I set up optically, then use a well modulated (loud) NM record that distorts on one channel, and adjust until the distortion goes away. Then I listen for distortion on the other channell.

I also get precise about mounting torque. I use a German torque screwdriver. 


@fourwnds 

Yes, there is a correct torque, which is pretty much dependent on your cartridge model. Start at the low end and increase by 0.02Nm to optimize.  I'm taking this from a posting by a Linn engineer, who said something like:
Plastic bodies: about 0.2 Nm
Metal mounts: 0.4 to 0.6.
These seem to be dry figures. I prefer to very lightly lube the nuts - if you are certain they are lubed, it's too much. Just a tiny bit of lubrication makes the whole process smoother and more repeatable, and hence, more accurate. 

For lightly lubed nuts, reduce the torque by 1/3. Thus my own results were: Koetsu RSP 0.32 Nm, and Mayajima Zero (which is all wood) 0.25.

Try the SoundSmith site for the article.

Good luck!
@fourwnds 

I prefer Stahlwille tools - what's good enough for Mercedes ... I bought mine direct from Germany, TBS-Aachen tools, just about affordable, considering what's at stake (that is, getting $500 performance from a pricey cartridge).
What kind of lube seems to be personal preference.

OK, back to serious. Can't quite believe that I wrote that stuff without realizing where it would lead - must be older than I thought.

The refinement was presented to me after I tapped a backplate made of 7075 aluminum. Apparently I had not removed all of the cutting oil (which is VERY light), and tightening the screws revealed a new level of control. (Gawd - here we go again!) So any light machine oil should do the trick (and again!!!). But just a really tiny amount - try a little cotton wool to remove the excess - you don't want oil on your records.