Porter Ports or Cabledyne Cryo Hubbell 5362


Just as I was about to purchase 3 Porter Ports yesterday, a friend of mine drew my attention to a new offering on the market, cryoed HBL 5362 by Cabledyne (www.cabledyne.com). Price wise there is considerable difference (as it appears to me): Porter Ports sell of $36 ea. + $12 shipping (for up to 3 units) against $25 each with free US shipping currently being offered by Cabledyne. My heart says Porter Port, but my mind -possibly biased by my friend - says Cabledyne.
Would greatly appreciate the advice from and personal experience/comparison from fellow audiogoners.
thank you in advance.
lall
lak,
have you messed with wall plates? I wonder at this development, but my 8 lines are actually housed in 4 dual duplex configurations. If cosmetics not an issue one wonders what the ambitious audio cheapskate might accomplish. I've also heard the GTX NCF is the cat's meow.

I've got some spec grade oddball hubbells in place that are unacceptable plus a gawd awful Cooper spec outlet from Lowes. 4 other slots are NOS HBL5362s from ebay on the under $10 delivered cheap. One Maestro which is the best.

I'm getting with Dave of P.I. Audio group who has polished cryo'd Pass&Seymour 5362As for $35 each (unpolished $25, and cryo'd P&S 5362 lower grade ones for only $10 each). He is user dBe over at audiocircle and responds to pms. This outlet might be superior to the Maestro and the new bargain champ.

Will get 1-2 of these P&S and try them out. I used to use a variety of power cords and switching in and out of my system was tedious. Hopefully I'll eventually have enough good receptacles in play to make some comments. Once installed its pretty easy to try them out, but I may rue swapping them in and out with the 10 guage wire likely to cause headaches.
@meles I run 10 gauge wire to my AC outlets also, and it’s a major pain to put outlets in and out, especially because my outlets are hard to get to.

Over the years I’ve tortured myself demoing various outlets. I’ve always preferred outlets that were cryogenically treated, after break in of course. That’s why I’m personally happy with my Furutech GTX-D Rhodium (R) outlets and am not planning on putting other outlets in or out...

I’m not saying there is nothing better, I’m just done switching those outlets in and out.

I had one Maestro outlet in my system and unfortunately, I was disappointed with it. Perhaps I had a bad one because the sucker broke (back strap) while it was in the outlet box after having the power cord plugged in and out about a dozen times. I also don’t think the Maestro outlet held up to the 10 gauge wire.

As far as wall plates are concerned, I do have a couple of the Furutech Duplex Cover Plates 104-D.

I recommend you try the inexpensive Pass & Seymour Legrand outlet cover. The back side of the cover has a built in support structure. Pass & Seymour TP8ICP TradeMaster One-Gang, Duplex Outlet Wall Plate: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQ7TCA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Haha the poor Maestro will be under some scrutiny.

I have two gang boxes so I’m lucky I can’t use 104-Ds. But Fim 308-2 is two gang (dual duplex) for $65 (aluminum). Oyaide has something like the 104-D in the WPC-Z2 for two gang and only $480 each.

I have two gang covers so that is TP82 instead of TP8. other letters like I stands for Ivory and CP for contractor pack. TP8ICP is ivory, contractor pack (10). "
  • Available in "TP" series, extra 3/16 inch width and height than Standard size plates; and "TPJ" series, extra 3/16 inch width and height than Junior-Jumbo size plates."
@lak,
The TP is a junior jumbo size, see any issues with TPJ which is full on jumbo and even bigger? What about stainless steel?(see below discussion.)

After double taking on $480 for an outlet cover (FFS I would need 8 at nearly $4000, gad zooks). It may be time for DIY outlet covers. The late "Winston Ma discovered that the outlet cover makes an important contribution to the performance of his outlets. He evaluated a number of options, with interesting results. The cheap plastic covers used in residential construction are, as you might have guessed, sounded the worst. More rigid covers sounded better, especially those made from non-magnetic stainless steel. He also learned that installing shielding and damping material inside the cover plate paid huge dividends."

I’m thinking the TPJ style might be a good vehicle for tweeking (putty pads for outlet boxes, aluminum tape, copper foil, all on hand.) Also an option, Stainless steel plates much like the FIM 308 (stainless steel is nonmagnetic) and one then could provide vibration tuning/damping on the backside (essentially what the FIM 308 does). Fleabay has my double gang ones for $5 each delivered or 8 for $30. Any stainless steel will do as its all non-magnetic. $30 and supplies on hand sounds a lot better than $4000, haha.

Cast covers might offer more rigidity and they look cool:

http://www.wallplatesonline.com/p/95334-Cortina-Stone-2-Duplex-Outlet.aspx?gclid=Cj0KEQjw5YfHBRDzjNn...

Stone wall plates above with some foil and damping on the back look interesting.

https://www.amazon.com/Amerelle-94DBB-Continental-Wallplate-Brushed/dp/B00FWWE2OG?th=1

Cast brass might be rigid enough

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Amerelle-94DDN-Continental-Satin-Nickel-Cast-Double-Duplex-Wallplate/4743...

Cast Nickel might work

Haha, Cast iron available, but that would be magnetic. I'm going to have to check out some examples at the local stores.