enginedr1960, that's a very interesting approach! I can easily see where that tight physical configuration up front could pay dividends.
Ohm Walsh Micro Talls: who's actually heard 'em?
Hi,
I'd love to hear the impressions of people who've actually spent some time with these speakers to share their sense of their plusses and minuses. Mapman here on Audiogon is a big fan, and has shared lots on them, but I'm wondering who else might be familiar with them.
I'd love to hear the impressions of people who've actually spent some time with these speakers to share their sense of their plusses and minuses. Mapman here on Audiogon is a big fan, and has shared lots on them, but I'm wondering who else might be familiar with them.
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- 2916 posts total
enginedr1960: Thanks for the post. Sounds like a very cool rig. I love the DSPeaker, and was tempted a few times to buy one at audio shows. But I actually have a seemless blend with my subs and it is impossible to point them out as a sound source. Like the Ohms, the music just hangs there in mid-air, as if no speakers were in the room. Lovin' it! I dio have a Pioneer AVR for watching video (my system is a combo 2-channel & surround setup), whch has the MCACC room EQ feature. Although the AVR is nnot in the signal chain for 2-channel sources, I can easily hear the improvement infrequency balance that MCACC calibration makes when I listen to music through te AVR. But the cost in transparency and other aspects of the sond are too great. Fortunately, my room is pretty good in terms of acoustics, though far from perfect. In fact, I have tone controls on my preamp and rarely use them. |
The mod on the speaker removed the inductor and switch on the binding post cup . The driver is wired direct to the speaker cables. The subs are on IsoAcoustics ISO -l8r200 stands 4 " tall the tweeter height falls in at 36" from the floor . The best thing about the Ohms is they are coherent . The Mini DSP is a great inexpensive tool for sub adjustments $ 105.00 @ Madisound |
Evening gents or ladies.... Finally got home from the metal shop and made some changes to the 2/2000. Found them to heavy in the bass as they were sitting about an inch or so from the carpet...yikes. Found some footers lifting them up another 3/4" and put them on my concrete platforms. Much better and there's still some midrange suckout that bothers both Tate and my self. The marking for direction was off big time, so I rotated the Speaker so the tweeter was aimed at the seating position. Wow better intelligibility, soundstaging and overall more fun. I think the speaker would sound way better crossed over at 80hz and have the subs pick up the heavy work. As they are they suck HP like mofo's almost in Apogee territory...lol I attached an image of the velocity stack now I just need to make it flush with the bottom of the speaker. I also came up with some F1 tech I want to add (I'll show it when speaker is done). I also have a very cool way to de-couple the tweeter module from the main body of the speaker......🇸🇪 https://www.flickr.com/photos/147883144@N08/32258881340/in/dateposted-public/ |
After hours of listening to the 2/2000 I figured something was wrong with the bass and I needed to investigate further. The first thing was a monstrous air leak at the Left speaker mounting plate. This was fixed with a simple liberal helping of high viscous super glue..... At this point I would have thought the problem would have been fixed, so I ran frequency sweep and found a weird hump at the lower frequencies on the Right speaker.....what the heck could it be? Fast forward to this afternoon and after some inspection I found that the bass port tube had dislodged it self. Good and bad I guess, but I did get a chance to look at the innards of a 2/2000.....hehehe 5/8" particle board on the sides and bottom panel. As for bracing it had 2 fir braces that looked more as holders for the stuffing then bracing. Two third of the bottom cavity was devoid of anything. If Tate wants me to fix the tube I'll be happy too. So back to the 4/5000... I decided to remove the bottom panel take out everything and start over. first I need to dampen the wall of the cabinet in a proper way, I will most likely use 1/4" aluminum, noise dampening sheeting and wool stuffening. Bracing will be either Some mdf/ aluminum mix or carbon fiber profiles available to me. I figured I have so much time invested why not do it right.....yeehaw 🇸🇪 |
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