Brute power cheap?? Adcom Vs. Rotel vs. NAD

Hafler is another good choice. It, too, is a MOSFET design. I used to own an Acoustat TransNova Twin 200 which, I believe, was made by Hafler and was designed, obviously, for use with the Acoustat speakers.

Great recommendation.

Chazzbo,

I've owned both NAD (still do) and Rotel. When deciding on an upgrade several years ago, I auditioned NAD, Rotel, B&K, Hafler, and Adcom. I preferred them in this order: Rotel (bought), NAD (2400 a close 2nd, great bass, but the Rotel's highs were better), Hafler (Transnova) and then a tie at the bottom between Adcom and B&K. I don't remember what I didn't like about the B&K or the model I listened to. I do remember thinking that the Adcom sounded lifeless to me, but I don't remember what model it was.

I have a set of smaller Maggies in a second system that I replaced amplification for about a year ago. I did mucho auditioning and will give you my impressions.

1) Rotel 1080 was precluded because it doesn't like low impedance loads.
2) Adcom amps struck me as having a bright top end, not to my liking.
3) NAD 218 has a solid bottom end, but not as much detail in the high frequencies.
4) Parasound HCA 1500A has great mids and smooth and detailed top end, but a little soft in the bottom registers.
5) I've not auditioned the Hafler 9505, but the amp I replaced was a 20 year old DH200 still in fine working order. I do like the Hafler sound.

I chose the Parasound and have been pleased with it.

P.S. Regarding bridging, I ruled it out as bridged amps don't do well into low impedance loads and bass can get sloppy. I would consider two amps in vertical biamp over bridged mode. Two NAD 218's or Parasound 1500A's can be had used in the neighborhood of $1,000 total.

Why you need 900 watts with Maggies?? Get a used Muse 160 and matching 3 pre used for about 1600. This combo will be musical and far better than anything you mentioned.Fully balanced 160 per.

Try to find some of the older Threshold gear. The S series was built like a tank. Plus do not get caught up in the watts. Amps or current is what you should be concerned with. Designing for watts is cheap but not for current.