Zerostat Milty really?

The SHURE published a research report about "charges on record" at 80's (http://www.shure.com/americas/support/find-an-answer/high-fidelity-phonograph-cartridge-technical-se...). It is a good read if you really want to get to the bottom of static issue. In the "Measurement of Electrostatic Charges on Phonograph Records" section, it concludes that the charges on record are always negative. The "Removing Charges from the Record" section elaborates the details of anti-static devices including zero-static gun type and ionizer/Destat type, etc. It concludes that those kind of devices generate both positive and negative ions.

The Detstat II/III is good for eliminating pre-exist static on record before spinning it.

Spincat, Many thanks for finding and posting this wonderful article on static and vinyl.  It clears up most of the issues we have been discussing, and it does so with a valid scientific approach. It was published back in 1978, back in the day when audiophiles were treated as thinking beings, by such great companies as Shure and by great magazines like "Audio" and other more specialized publications. Notice the absence of words and phrases like "Quantum" and "Crystals".

First and foremost to me, I see where I was wrong about what comes out of the Zerostat/Milty.  Apparently the guns CAN make positive charge, but in the form of positive ions, not protons or positrons.  I think I once knew that but forgot it. I spotted several other useful factoids:
(1) Playing the LP per se does NOT produce a significant static charge on its surface due to the friction between stylus and groove OR due to its rotation in air.
(2) Static charge on the underside of the LP is not affected by efforts to discharge the playing surface but nor does it affect the playing surface until the LP is lifted off the platter, whereupon the charge on the underside re-distributes itself across both surfaces.
(3) This article effectively supports the idea behind the new Audioquest brush and many other older products like it, which grounds its carbon fiber bristles via the hand of the user (or via a ground cable).  And carbon fiber is also recommended for sweeping debris off an LP without adding charge.
(4) As to how the static charge gets there, where it goes, etc, everyone interested ought to read this article, slowly.
(5) The article also states that the "guns" release positive ions when the trigger is pulled and negative ions when the trigger is released.  If most static charge is negative in polarity on the surface of the LP (as this article also does say), then it would seem logical that you want to pull the trigger with the gun pointed at the surface, hold it, and then slowly pull the gun away from the LP surface before fully releasing the trigger.

Many other interesting tidbits here.  I am going to print it.

@lewm, I am glad that you found this article interesting and helpful. I have read and benefited from it for years. Since people participating are from different backgrounds, I tried not to get into technical details, but focusing on audiophile/sonic perspectives.

The (1)  you mentioned is very true. Most of the people do not aware of this since struggling on spark and pull from the platter. Even does NOT produce a significant static charge, it does affect the sonic and the signal that cartridge pickup to a  degree since the cartridge is such a sensitive device. It does not need a lot of static charges for a cartridge to pick it up. I found the sound becomes edgy, fewer details and less definition, etc. Unfortunately, we are calibrating and setting up the vinyl playback by ear and according to this.

There are stages for anti-static treatment.  Stage one:  sparkless and no pull from the platter. Stage two:  neutralize/minimize the static build-up during playing and improving the sonic presentation. 

The good grounding is the prerequisite for the new Audioquest (or similar) brushes to be effective. The typical human body resistance ranging from hundred ohms to hundred kilo ohms depends on conditions. It certainly not as good as a grounding wire. There are some similar products (brushes) using grounding wire. Since the brush is going to touch most of your records (used, new), it is better to make sure it is as spotless as possible.

OK, I did a bit of an experiment this evening by rubbing a small piece of cellophane on my shirt, letting it cling to my hand and seeing how long several methods took to make the cellophane drop.
I immediately discovered I was wrong about the polarity of the Zerostat 3. Using only the release cycle, nothing happened. Using only the squeeze cycle it dropped immediately, so I was dead wrong about the polarity of the device. My face is appropriately red as I write this.
With one Thoriated rod very near the cellophane it did not drop after 2 minutes. With three near it it dropped in a little less than one. To test my body as a conductor I rubbed the cello and got it to cling again; then tried placing the opposite hand on a polished copper drain pipe. Nothing happened. Placing the tips of the fingers of the same hand that the cello was clinging to, it took about 3 min. to drop. I then sprayed my hand with Pfan-Stat and dried it before getting the cello to cling. It dropped about 30 sec. after I put my finger tips on the pipe. Draw your own conclusions. I've had 3 rods on my plinth for a few days and I see less dust being attracted when I lift a record off the table. I still use the Zerostat 3 and a carbon fiber brush when necessary.

My main issues with static have been with dust attraction and cling to felt mats. Rarely have I heard static affect the sound of my LP playing...I think. I don't use felt anymore, regardless of what the manufacturer sells the table with. But the excellent Shure article that @spincat linked us to makes me want to experiment with a conductive mat, even though the only way it would have of discharging is through the spindle. I'm not sure how that would work. I wouldn't use the copper mats I've seen because one of my tables works with a clamp (would copper damage the vinyl under pressure?) and the other is a Linn Basik that wouldn't be able to overcome the extra weight according to Linn. If anyone knows of any other conductive mat materials, I'd like to know. I may try spraying a mat with Pfan-Stat.

Finally, the Shure graphite guard. I have 2 V15 RSs and have used Shures with brush guards since the '80s, one RS with a new Jico MR stylus is on the Linn most of the time. I still have 2 older Shure original Styli for when I'm feeling nostalgic. The other one is for my Oracle Alexandria, but rarely gets used as I have several MCs. The reason I didn't think the brushes were effective at removing static is that no matter how fastidiously I clean an LP before playing, there is always dust on the brush fibers when the side is through. Dust that I don't think was on the LP when I closed the lid. Yes, I play with the lid down. I hate dust being attracted to my vinyl. The V15s are no worse with static than my other cartridges; but I can't say they are better either. I'll pay more attention the next time I use one.

Sorry for being so long winded! If you made it this far, I thank you for your patience.

Jim