Your One Bullet Point Solution; Electrical Upgrade

Rbstheno, excellent info! Thanks!

I'm not considering a grounding rod. 

Further info from discussion on other mirror thread:

Currently 60A at the house, going to 100A panel rating. New line coming in from utility company will be buried; that's motivating the push to change.

djones51, ok, I can do either 100A or 200A. The pedestal and panel has not been purchased yet. 

If I do 200A, then my 100A subpanel is toast? Need to get 200A subpanel? 


FYI for all helping; I added subpanel when building Audio room, as the main panel was too small. The new panel could be large enough to hold the audio lines, but I understand that a dedicated sub-panel is preferred. 

I have two 20A lines running to the audio room. Audio room and those lines will not be redone, only panel/sub-panel and surge protection. 

djones51, yes, replacing main panel, and if necessary, sub-panel. I have option to go to 100A or 200A

djones51, yes, I plan on inquiring as to surge protection as you suggest. I believe Maxwave suggested (above) a similar idea to what the electrician mentioned. 

So far my thoughts:
200A service
Square D brand panel with brass bus
? Sub panel optimal for HT room? I'm leaning that way
Surge protection on main/sub-panel 

Maxwave, thank you! This seems like what the electrician was recommending. 

Let's shunt further responses over to the TECH forum, where I have an identical discussion underway! thanks everyone! 

The plan at this point:
200A
New main panel w. 40 slots - copper bus, better breakers
(Leave sub-panel in place just in case a transformer needs to be put in-between main panel and sub-panel)
Whole house surge protector on main panel 

If there are problems with noise I can get isolation transformer to put between main and sub-panel, and put the HT/Audio room lines back on the sub-panel. 

We'll see how it goes!  

Thank you for helping to talk through this! 

thank you! 

Thank you, everyone! In planning with the electrician now.

Sure, now I need a car upgrade!  ;) 

As can be seen I am novice when it comes to this stuff. I have no clue whether the pedestal - the name given by electrician to the outside service that is replacing the old 60A one, is different for 100A or 200A. My point was that I have freedom to go either direction. I have chosen to to 200A. 

I already have power in the garage, workbench with outlets, etc. So, I'm set there. It is a great suggestion, though, and I use it plenty. 

I have two dedicated 20A lines running to HT/Audio room already which I put in using 10AWG cable, so that's set. No retrofit there, because it's built like a bomb shelter. 

I'm in good shape; the coring - or whatever you call it - for the new line is happening next week, the space is ready for new pedestal, and I"m going with 200A Square D QO breakers with 40 slots. Copper bus, etc. Goop the copper to protect from corroding. Should be more than enough. 

I will have exterior whole house surge protector put on by elec. co., which is a bargain to help protect nice gear, and may put an additional one inside on panel, We'll see. It gets redone, if necessary, until no noise as first priority. 

Probably do the recommended copper ground for HT/Audio circuit as well, but no rod in the ground outside. Never have had grounding/noise issues that way. 

Plus, adding whole house remote control for power. One remote, control power for everything. All electronics, furnace and AC, lighting, computer and phones, garage door opener, car starters, and all electronics in audio and HT system, etc. Not cheap at $20K, but should be nice. Not really; just kidding about that. ;) 

Should have the project done in two weeks. Space outside the house where the work will be done was prepared this morning. We're set. I very much appreciate all the guidance and suggestions! I believe the result will be splendid, and according to most the upgrade from 60A to 200A should confer a slight improvement audibly. At least that's my understanding of the discussion. It need not, but that would be a nice bonus. 

Talk about bonus, the utilitity co. forestry man was out at precisely the same time. Getting two trees that were questionable removed due to his agreement that they should come down (power lines/poles, encroachment on road, etc.) That will save me a ton of physical work, especially since I can pile the wood, which is suitable, just a few feet away at the roadside on grass and I bet that will be gone in a day or two. Sweet, no trailering it somewhere!  

It's been a very good week for property maintenance. Makes the music sound all the sweeter!  :)

Thank you! 

Polesandzeroseros 
You are suggesting that the earthing which has served this home for 60 years+ is insufficient and or deficient?
Please specify your recommendation. 

ELECTRICIANS and owners of the whole house meter surge suppressor devices, I need your help on a particular point of information.

My local utility does not offer the house/meter surge suppressors. 

I see one made by Leviton. I get the idea. 

Question: I believe my electrician could install it. They seem to have a shelf life. What happens when a surge hits? Do they reset automatically? Are you without power until reset? How do you reset them?   

Any superior, great brand to recommend? 

TIA 

THOUGHTS in regard to two options electrician is offering? 
Both 200A 
Both will have some form of surge protection at panel 

Eaton CH Panel with space for an Eaton surge protection 
-The Eaton panel has uses silver plated copper bus bar connection
-Breakers seem to be mounted directly onto neutral

Square D with QO breakers 
-The Square D has a tin plated copper bus bar
-breakers seem to be wired in 

My electrician plans on replacing the ground bars with copper. 

Again, if there are noise problems I will probably add an isolation transformer and sub-panel. 


QUESTION: So a load center can have more than one surge protection device? i.e. covering entire panel, and additional covering the circuits for the HT/audio room? The Siemens unit recommended by drlisz seems to do both entire panel and two circuits. Is that the same case with others, like the Eaton panel surge protector? 

Just about at the finish line...

Anything wrong/incompatible with this scenario?

Eaton panel (commercial grade), 200A, 40 slot

Ground bars replaced with copper (unless robust enough with commercial grade)

Eaton Complete Home Surge Protector (goes inside Eaton mains panel)


Eaton Complete Home (CH) Surge Circuit Breaker devices on HT/audio room’s 20A circuits

? Can I use more than one of these circuit breaker units (one that looks different is named "CSHA". Not sure if that would replace the Complete Home Surge Protector for panel.


TIA!