Whole House Surge Protection…recommendations!

Check with your electric utility too see if it offers a Type 1 surge protection device. Not all allow them, but there's nothing like correcting a problem as closely to the source as possible.

@carlsbad, if my power strip is using MOVs for surge suppression, there is nothing limiting current.

Thank you @carlsbad ​​& @cleeds. I appreciate your feedback. I am all set with power conditioning between my system and wall-outlet so I won’t be changing anything there. 
 

I live in North Florida, and I can tell you that having surge suppression will not guarantee anything.  Several years ago I lost two computers and a TV.  The brand-name surge suppressor company DID reimburse me for the losses, per their guarantee.  

My brother, who lives a few miles away from me is still in the process of repairing/replacing appliances in his house from lightning a month ago, and he has "whole house" protection installed in his 200 amp panel.  The power company, Gulf Power, had to replace a large section of his service entrance.

If lighting strikes near you, all bets are off.

I unplug ALL my audio gear the moment I hear any thunder.  I am also a ham radio operator and I unplug the coax cable coming in from my antenna, and throw it out the window!

I have used the Environmental Potentials 2050 for the past 10 years. No issues and clean, quiet power. Highly recommended!

Siemens and this product :

were recommended to me by Dave from PI Audio Group

It was 2 or 3 years ago
( Uber Buss power conditioner )

When you get direct (or nearby) hit nothing will help, but I would still use protection for smaller events and of course unplugging.  I installed in Siemens style panel two 65kA Siemens "BoltShield" QSPD2A065P protectors ($126 each st Amazon).  I had two free positions on each side, so the only labor involved was plugging them in and connecting ground wire.  Together they can handle up to 130kA, while the strongest Siemens protector FS140 can handle 140kA (and is likely >$400).  Be sure to switch main breaker off or call electrician (it shouldn't be expensive).   You need two free spaces (2-pole) and Siemens style pane.  In ideal case everything should be below them - further from the entrance, because as 65kA ratings suggest clamping currents are extremely high causing huge voltage drops even on short piece of the bus bar.  In my opinion it is better way than FS140 style (attached with wires), since there will be huge voltage drops on these wire during clamping.  Protectors have high clamping voltage to start with and adding few tens of volts will make it worse.  Still pulse of pretty high voltage will get on wiring, but it is extremely short and home wiring inductance should reduce it.  In addition I plugged my system into Furman Elite 20PFI power conditioner with tight non-sacrificial over/undervoltage protection.  Sometimes it activates its own circuit breaker to switch it back on a moment later.  It is hard to tell if it was small under or overvoltage.

My brother, who lives a few miles away from me is still in the process of repairing/replacing appliances in his house from lightning a month ago, and he has "whole house" protection installed in his 200 amp panel.  The power company, Gulf Power, had to replace a large section of his service entrance.

LOL.... He needs to replace the power company 

I just installed my first one today. I  have two 200 amp panels so I am fitting one to each panel.  It is very easy to install and I highly recommend this unit a small world cup