It looks like you set your mind on wireless. I had problem
using 2.4GHz WiFi since it has only 3 non-overlapping
channels. My microwave was interfering with one and
neighbors with two others. There are few possible choices:
- brute force, use powerful antenna >0.5W (will also force
neighbors to change channels), or/and repeaters
- switch to dual band router and operate at 5GHz that has 23
non-overlapping channels (that's what I did). No
interference since it is not very common yet, plus penetrates
walls poorly - a advantage against incomming interference but
also disadvantage if you need to go thru the walls or over
long distance.
- device that doesn't use WiFi (investigate Sonos - they make
modules like that)
I use AE and it is inexpensive ($100) and decent with Toslink
out. I would recommend some reclocking after. I use
reclocking DAC but you might find stand alone reclockers (W4S
makes one). You can always add this later, but they are
costly (W4S is $399). It comes to jitter suppression (to
sound cleaner). I would use AE or Squeezebox (if you can find
it) or Sonos and not the Apple TV since it converts
everything to 48kHz and conversion 44.1/48, according to few
posts, has negative effect on sound.
AE is limited to 16/44.1 but it is OK with me since I listen
only to CDs.
I'm not sure if you can have more than one AE receiver, but
it is easy to confirm on this forum.
using 2.4GHz WiFi since it has only 3 non-overlapping
channels. My microwave was interfering with one and
neighbors with two others. There are few possible choices:
- brute force, use powerful antenna >0.5W (will also force
neighbors to change channels), or/and repeaters
- switch to dual band router and operate at 5GHz that has 23
non-overlapping channels (that's what I did). No
interference since it is not very common yet, plus penetrates
walls poorly - a advantage against incomming interference but
also disadvantage if you need to go thru the walls or over
long distance.
- device that doesn't use WiFi (investigate Sonos - they make
modules like that)
I use AE and it is inexpensive ($100) and decent with Toslink
out. I would recommend some reclocking after. I use
reclocking DAC but you might find stand alone reclockers (W4S
makes one). You can always add this later, but they are
costly (W4S is $399). It comes to jitter suppression (to
sound cleaner). I would use AE or Squeezebox (if you can find
it) or Sonos and not the Apple TV since it converts
everything to 48kHz and conversion 44.1/48, according to few
posts, has negative effect on sound.
AE is limited to 16/44.1 but it is OK with me since I listen
only to CDs.
I'm not sure if you can have more than one AE receiver, but
it is easy to confirm on this forum.