Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
rauliruegas
Dear Lewm,
I just bought a malfunctioning TT101
You are one brave 'cowboy' :-)
In what way(s) is it malfunctioning?
I really hope that Bill Thalmann can resurrect it for you. Perhaps he may become a Victor 'guru' as well as a Technics one?

Good Luck and please keep us informed?
I sure am not going to challenge the wisdom of Mr. Hansen. If he says to do it that way, do it that way. However, the DIN plug is at the upstream end of the cable. For sure, at the DIN plug side, all grounds have to go to the one pin on the DIN connector that is available for grounds. There are 5 pins in a DIN plug. Two each are available for, respectively, the positive and negative halves of the signal from the cartridge, for each of the two channels. I guess you are saying he does not ground the shield(s) at the XLR end, but instead he sends a separate wire from that ground pin on the DIN to the body of the phono stge. Probably he's right; in fact that may be what I do myself.
Hi Lewm,

I use an Ayre K-1xe preamp with the differentially-balanced internal phono section (very similar to the P5xe you previously owned). My tables/tonearms all have the traditional single-ended phono cables with RCA connectors, so I am currently using RCA-to-XLR adapters since the K-1xe only accepts XLR inputs.

About the same time as the discussion started here about balanced phono sections, I started investigating converting my phono leads from single-ended to balanced. I found a reputable custom cable manufacturer that is willing to make a 5-pin DIN to dual XLR cable for me for $100 and I found a wiring schematic for a 5-pin DIN to dual XLR cable on the Ayre website. Their recommendation is a little different than what you say in your post above: "In an XLR,...pin 1 is connected to audio ground." On Ayre's schematic, pin 1 on the XLRs is left unused and cable shielding from all four signal conductors is tied to the separate ground wire from pin 3 of the DIN connector.

Does this make sense to you? Will it still result in the same level of hum/noise rejection as using pin 1 for audio ground?

I appreciate any help you can offer.

Best,
Dave
I did some reading on the VK10. Although I found nothing that directly addresses my question about the circuit design, I did find plenty to convince me that the VK10 must be truly balanced, from input to output. There was one mention of a built-in step-up transformer, presumably for LOMCs. If there IS a SUT in there, then using that may render the input to SE mode. So, I can only think that Victor was just reporting his subjective opinion, when he stated he could not hear a difference between SE and balanced inputs.

The argument about the inherent nature of a phono cartridge is of a different nature. It cannot be a matter of opinion; a particular cartridge either is or isn't balanced. As I said, some older Decca cartridges just have 3 output pins, only one of which is ground. Thus the grounds for the two channels are indeed strapped together, and the cartridge is single-ended. I don't know of any other cartridges, new or old, built like that, but I guess there must be a few. In the vast majority of cases, the two "ground" pins on a cartridge are isolated from one another. The ground pin, in the case of a moving coil for example, is connected to one side of the coil. The hot pin for that same channel is connected to the other side of the same coil. At either end, you would see an identical signal that is 180 degrees out of phase with the signal at the other end. This is the essence of a balanced signal. True, as Victor pointed out, there is no ground reference; a cartridge can be used equally well in SE mode for that reason. But as soon as you connect a cartridge to a balanced phono stage using an XLR connector, you have provided the ground reference for the (balanced) signal. End of story.
Dear Don, I just read your long post addressed to Raul, wherein you talk again about "quasi-balanced". In fact, one of the best ways to avoid or cancel hum is by using balanced connection, from the cartridge to the phono stage (as you stipulate), IF the phono stage is truly balanced from RIAA input to output.

Can you find out more about your VK10? I am guessing it is not balanced at its input, only at its output, which is entirely possible. But it's just a guess.
Dear Griffithds: Yes, I used the KimberKable KCAG with no problems but for what you posted seems to me that that hum through an unshielded tonearm to phono stage cable is not culprit of the phono stage but the air pollulation at your place that induced that hum to those unshielded cables.

Try to put in a different position/direction those cables and see what happen. If the culprit comes from the cables because unshielded then changing ist position will change the hum intensity and I can say you that exist one position where exist no hum. The cable ground wire that normally is connected to the phono stage ground connector is important too on its position.

Of course could exist other reasons why in your place is happening what is happening that I can't say for sure.

Regards and enjoy the music,
}R.
Dear Halcro,
I just bought a malfunctioning TT101 in the context of a QL10. I got the Victor tonearm and plinth along with the TT101, at a price about equal to the value of the Victor tonearm alone. Yes, I am bragging. I have the hubris to think that I or Bill Thalmann can fix the TT101. But we'll see. Of course, there is a chance I bought a boat anchor plus a tonearm.

Guys, I don't want to argue further about whether cartridges are "balanced" or not. Don, for all I know you may be correct about some or all of those vintage cartridges you mention, because they ARE vintage, and as I said myself, some of the older cartridges do use a common ground strap. All I can say to that question is that when I owned the Ayre p5Xe, I used it exclusively for these vintage MM and MI cartridges and always in full balanced mode, and it was always dead silent.

But this has nothing to do with why you (or whoever it was that is using a BAT VK10) need a special plug when using the RCA inputs. I think this has to do with grounding pin3 of the XLR. In an XLR, by convention, pin2 carries the positive phase of the signal, while pin3 carries the negative phase and pin1 is connected to audio ground. If you run single-ended, pin3 has got to be returned to ground. That's probably what that plug does. My guess is that inside the VK10, the "hot" pin of the RCA is returned to pin2 of the XLR. Then the "ground" side of the RCA must be connected to BOTH pins1 and 3 of the XLR.
Tubed1,

To answer your question, "Does titanium have memory", the answer is yes. The only way to change the shape (form) of titanium is with heat.
The outcome in trying to straighten a titanium cantilever without the use of heat(lots of heat), would not be what you would consider successful. The cantilever, if sent to a re tipper, would not be bent to correct, but reposition.

Regards,
Don
Correction:

"can not be truly called balanced."

Should have read, can be truly called balanced.

Regards,
Don
Raul,

Have you tried unshielded Balanced cables? That is what was giving me problems. The phono cartridged when connected in balance mode with unshielded cables create hum. I wasn't in the mood to buy and rotate various thousand $ balanced cables (unshielded), to see if I could discover a set that would work. I was told by both Victor (BAT), and Bob (Graham engr.), to go a different route (than unshielded),so I did. Based on Victors comment that he could not discern any difference between single ended or balanced connection from the cartridge to the phono stage, I repeat, FROM THE CARTRIDGE TO THE PHONO STAGE, I chose the cheaper method, single ended! I could have went with balanced(shielded), but if I was not going to hear any difference (from the cartridge to the phono preamp), Why waste the money!
Please reread all that was just stated above. It does not say that he could not hear any difference in the signal after it passes thru his balanced phono stage! The problem had nothing to do with what happens once the signal enter the phono stage. A signal being received by the phono stage that is carrying hum will pass that hum along into the phono stage, as part of the signal! That's not design flaw! If you have a phono stage that filters out part of the signal, then you have a flawed phono stage. My phono stage is not a filter! My comment (question), at the beginning of this thread, was whether a phono cartridge wired in balanced mode was truly a balance signal? Quasi-balance it what I have read it really is. Meaning sort of balanced. Can something sort of dry, really be called dry? Can something be sort of round? Can a signal be sort of balanced?
A point was made earlier about being careful about believing what a manufacture says when he calls his product balanced. I don't believe a signal that is "Quasi- sort of", can not be truly called balanced. If you wish to think of it as semantics, well that's your right. I'm an engineer, it either is, or it isn't!
Dear Griffithds: Seems to me that that is " failure " in the preamp design. The unit I used is fully balanced input to output and I can use it through XLR or RCA connectors and does not shows that kind of problem. The Lewm unit performs fine too.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Tubed1, First the good news. Axel corrected my AT 180 'bend' cantilever for cheap (30 euro). The bad news you may get from our comrade Don. As a aircraft engineer he is familiar with titanium and, if I rememebr well, very sceptical about this material for the cantilevers.

Regards,
Having recently aquired a titaniaum based cantilever and knowing full well aluminum cantilevers that are off center can be tweeked just once back to the factory specs. I am wondering about the viability of attempting this with titanium? Does titanium have memory? or snap? That angel sitting on my right shoulder says don't even think about it. But the devil on my left shoulder says go ahead it's only 2-3 degrees. All feedback from those that know or have experience with this sort of thing will be considered. I guess some stylus/cart esp as rare as this one just need to go to Axel. He can fix anything.
Dear Henry, If I remember well this DM-10 preamp was terrible expensive. Back then I was convinced that a typo was made by the last 0. I own the Basis Exclusive which is
not, uh, cheap, but no problems at all with <0.2 mV carts. The strange thing however is that Schaefer , the owner/designer of the ASR gear, recommend symetrical in
but 'RCA' out. This does no look logical but there are the so called 'deviant logics' . The Dutch mathematician Brouwer was one of them. His logic and mathematics are called 'intuistic' but should be called 'constructive' actually.In his opinion we construct mathematical proofs and reasoning. So in this sense we all may be called 'constructive'. We all 'construct' our own system according to our own intuition?

Regards,

Halcro,

I only had LOMC,s at the time so I don't know what would have happened with any other types.

Regards,
Don
Dear Audiopulse: I can't say about your Satin 117G but the 117E, 117S and M20 are high output MC designs and I think too that some of them are user replacement stylus.

The M21 nad M21-B are medium output with fixed stylus and the M21-P is LOMC one.

Tha's the Satin cartridge information I have.

Could you share your playback experiences with your Satin 117G?, appreciated.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Don,
I have a similar experience with my Halcro DM-10 Preamp.
Running balanced XLR Phono cables into the balanced inputs of the inbuilt phono stage gives me hum with ultra LOMCs.....below 2.0mV but no hum with high output MMs.
When I run single-ended phono cables into the RCA inputs of the Phonostage.......no hum whatsoever. Even 1.5mV?

Can you remember if it was all cartridges you had hum with?......or just LOMCs?

Regards
Lewm,

Why must all the 99.99% of cartridges have to have an "outboard" grounding strap? Are there not also many cartridges with internal groundings, unseen by the naked eye? One more point that pertains to the VK10. If you do choose to use a single ended phono cable, you must use Victors supplied grounding plugs in the unused XLR inputs. I would assume that this is because his phono stage is a balanced input as well as balanced output and the grounding plugs allow for the use of single ended connections.
Regards,
Don
Lewm - You can easily verify for yourself by measuring DC resistance between pins and body- as stated, most carts have a strap or internal soldered connection, usually on the left channel. Shure, Pickering, Stanton, Empire, etc. have a physical strap you can remove, others will have an internal connection that may not measure correctly because of paint on the metal body.
Storyboy, That's a good story. 99.99% of cartridges have no such strap. As I noted above, some vintage cartridges, like the Decca's, did have such. Think of it this way: what happens if you make a mistake wiring your cartridge? Answer: the channels can be out of phase. Why? Because the so-labeled "ground" peg on the cartridge is just a choice made by the maker; you can get signal out of that peg.
"Some phono guru told me that phono cartridge is basically a " balance " device.
It is not. It is neither balanced nor single-ended. It is correctly called "floating" source that can be used either way. Much like a battery. The connection to the circuit defines wether it is now a balanced circuit or whatever."

(Quote from Victor.) To an engineer, this is a valid point, I suppose. To anyone else, this is semantics. If you hook a cartridge up in balanced mode to a true balanced RIAA equalizer, you will have all the benefits of the noise rejection available via balanced mode. It's "floating" because there is no center ground between the two phases. As soon as you attach it to a balanced phono stage, which WILL have an audio ground, then it becomes balanced to the satisfaction of an engineer, I would think. (The ground in the phono circuit becomes the reference for the cartridge.)

The fact that your VK10 has XLR inputs for the cartridge does not necessarily mean it has a fully balanced RIAA. Probably it does not. I am more and more convinced of that as I read what Victor says about it. This is no slur on the VK10. There are many many great sounding single-ended phono stages. Moreover, seems the VK10 does have balanced output.
To put the balanced dilema simply, to properly run a cartridge 'balanced' you must remove the ground strap or internal connection from the cartridge pin negative - only then will it behave as such. This cart body ground can then be connected to system ground
Lewm,
I ran across this in my file from Victor. This is for our information purposes only. Interesting read.

"Posted by Victor Khomenko on January 4, 2001 at 12:36:22
In Reply to: Is phono cartridge a " balance " device ? If so, why is 99.999% phono preamplifer single ended ? posted by adnut on January 4, 2001 at 11:51:55:

***Some phono guru told me that phono cartridge is basically a " balance " device.
It is not. It is neither balanced nor single-ended. It is correctly called "floating" source that can be used either way. Much like a battery. The connection to the circuit defines wether it is now a balanced circuit or whatever.

But all this is really not important, or at least far less important than in the case of say, a preamp interfacing with a power amp. Why? Because the catridge has no ground reference, while the preamp and power amp do. Connecting two chassis always creates some issues that floating sources simply don't have.

The funny part is that floating sources can be connected to single-ended inputs and still behave like trully differential ones. I would much rather use the term differential, because it is better defined than the "balanced" - that has many definitions. We have built single-ended circuits with 140dB dynamic range that behaved completely as you would expect from differential circuits. The trick was - they were floating. Much like the input circuit in your DVM doesn't need to be trully "balanced" or "differential" (and they usually are not) in order to not have your typical single ended nastiness.

All this simply means that one should not get stuck in some terminology black hole, but rather do what is right. One particular case - tube inputs in phono stages. There, given the floating nature of the cartridge, it is more advisable to connect it to a single-ended input, gaining 6dB better noise performance (for the same resouces) that is extremely valuable in tube phono stages working with MC cartridges.

Again, each case is different and every designer sees it in a different light, and two products from the same designers might be different. All thank to the floating nature of this source."

I'll keep looking for the Quasi-balanced article.

Regards,
Don
Hello Lewm, and you to Tom,

No disrespect ever taken from either of you. My comments, the "Quasi-balanced" were from an article I read many years ago. I will try to locate, copy, and paste it here. My BAT phono input configuration has both single ended (RCA) plugs, and XLR's. Only XLR's for output. The article I am referring to was all about how to mount a modern phono cartridge to a modern tone arm in a balance configuration. The reason I even remembered it is because of how shocking it was to me to read such a thing! I readily admit that things electrical (circuity, etc.), will and does easily float over my head at times, but the reading of that article made since to me so it stuck. The article BTW, was not talking about the signal once it enters the phono stage, but was it a balance signal "when" it enter the phono stage.
Regards,
Don
Whoops! Sorry Timeltel; I believe you are the professor, not Don. No disrespect to you either, Don.
Dear Don, With all respect as our professor, your statement "You can not truly wire a phono cartridge to the phono stage in a truly balanced mode" is not correct. Cartridges are inherently balanced devices, except for some rare exceptions like some of the old Decca designs. The cartridge does not "know" whether you are taking its output from one side of it or the other; there are equal and opposite polarity signals on either end. Conventional SE input phono stages selectively ground one side and take the signal output from the other. True balanced phono stages DO exist. (I own one, the Atma-sphere MP1. MP3 is another. I used to own also an Ayre p5Xe, also truly balanced. I assumed that BAT phono stages were also truly balanced from input to output, but now I am not certain. It may be that only the output is balanced. That would explain Victor's statement; if the VK10 does not have a true balanced RIAA stage, then indeed he was correct in what he told you.) Here are some words from Wikipedia:

"Most professional audio products (recording, public address, etc.) provide differential balanced inputs and outputs, typically via XLR or TRS phone connectors. However, in most cases, a differential balanced input signal is internally converted to a single-ended signal via transformer or electronic amplifier. After internal processing, the single-ended signal is converted back to a differential balanced signal and fed to an output. A small number of professional audio products have been designed as an entirely differential balanced signal path from input to output; the audio signal never unbalances. This design is achieved by providing identical (mirrored) internal signal paths for both pin 2 and pin 3 signals (AKA "hot" and "cold" audio signals). In critical applications, a 100% differential balanced circuit design can offer better signal integrity by avoiding the extra amplifier stages or transformers required for front-end unbalancing and back-end rebalancing.
Nandric, I do have a Satin m-117g bought in 2010 and I believe it is a low output version.
Dear Raul, I hope this is not a stupid question but I have
no idea what an 'MOMC' means. As far as I know all Satin
MC carts are 'HOMC' (high output) but also with replaceble
styli. In this sense they may be called 'special'. I hope
you deed not shoot your self in the foot by your enduring
quest for the new carts?

Regards,
Dave,

That would explain alot! My original VK10 arrived with the dealer display unit, in other words, one of the very 1st units in San Diego, very early production runs. It has been back 3 times for upgrades and is as current as it can be. Never had a failure of any kind. Bulletproof to say the least! Currently it is the SE model with the 6PACS (kindly referred to as depth charges), and Lundahl SU.
Thanks for the clarification,
Regards,
Don
I've had three balanced phono stages: BAT VK-P10, AtmaSphere MP-1, ARC PH-2. I recollect that in the first generation P10 the first gain stage is single-ended, the rest of it is fully balanced. In subsequent P10s the first gain stage is fully balanced.
Lewm,

Victors remarks, in no way changed my opinion of him. He is a genius in circuit designs and product development. That discussion, that long discussion with him, had to have been 15 maybe more years ago and I have since gotten a better idea why he had made that statement. He was definitely not flippant and I am sorry if that is how my short reply might have sounded to you. You can not truly wire a phono cartridge to the phono stage in a truly balanced mode. It has been called Quasi-balanced (meaning sort of balanced?). The problem definitely was not the BAT phono stage, but was the silver unshielded phono cable from Bob Graham. Bob was kind enough to refund my purchase price and I then went with the XLO signature's. Because of Victors comments about not being able to hear/or measure any difference in either Balanced or Single Ended configuration coming from the cartridge and going to the phono stage, I went with the more common (and cheaper), single ended phono cable design.
It is this Quasi/sort of balanced that makes me a little confused, when discussing truly balanced circuitry. Can a circuit be "truly" balanced, if at its very beginning, is just Quasi/sort of balanced?
It was your earlier comments pertaining to being careful about products being truly balanced that sparked that memory .
Regards,
Don
Dear Don and Dent, I am very puzzled by Victor's statement as you (Don) report it. This seems contrary to the very raison d'etre of a company calling itself "Balanced" Audio Technology. Without having researched the VK10, I too would assume it has a true balanced circuit inside. I use an Atma-sphere MP1, which is for sure a balanced device. One of the greatest benefits of balanced phono is lack of any hum. I cannot imagine why you had a hum problem in balanced mode, unless there is something amiss. I think Victor's advice to switch to SE mode is rather flippant. As a maker of your phono stage, I think he has an obligation to help you solve the issue, rather than to suggest you avoid it. On the other hand, I hold Victor in very high regard, so I don't know what to think.

I personally have run tonearm/cartridge combos that were giving me hum problems with my other (SE) phono stage into the MP1, and I was rewarded by dead silent backgrounds. (By the way, Dentdog, you should consider the Atma-sphere MP3. It is balanced and more reasonable in cost than an MP1, if cost is an issue.) I have never ever encountered any hum with a true balanced phono hook-up, and there are some other inherent advantages to running cartridges in balanced mode, as well. More output for one.
Dear friends: I know that some of you are really exited and learning with the cartridge transplants and other pertinent subjects to the thread, well I think this is a pertinent subject because it is a cartridge that I was lucky to find out when in the past I intented everything even to buy it second hand in Japan with out luck:

the cartridge is a LOMC Satin M21-B that not every one knows whom's Satin.

Satin designed cartridges and tonearms for year in japan and its products were at the begin for domestic market and latter on to Europe.

I own its next top of the line unipivot tonearm that IMHO is the best unipivot ever made ( when I posted that statement no one ask because only a few persons know Satin. ) and today I bought the M21-B to a seller in Berlin.

In theory the top Satin cartridges have no cartridge ( MC ) competition due to its unique ( like the Astatic MF-2500. ) design. I don't know if that's true but if we take in count that you can't find out to buy and that's " very rare " item has a meaning then could be that the Satin cartridge is the best ever ( we will see. ).

Trhough my audio life I never seen on the net for sale, its extremely rare buy status is similar of that MF-2500: so figure!

To put my hands on this mint Satin cartridge I think beats any excitation from my part ever for an audio item.

It's a 1980 design and in those times its price was around 70-80K Yens. Nothing spectacular on its body that's of plastic and no ultra exotic cantilever or the like, in theory was its design and consequent top performance what gave the Satin cartridge its best cartridge status.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Hello Nandric,
Tell Kuzma my apologies but he got me wrong: I have nothing against his stiff plastic belt drive. On the contrary, stiff plastic is completely different than flexible rubber a´la Thorens, Oracle etc. Stabi Reference´s drive method combines the best from both belt and rim drives very successfully.
No wonder he is hailed as Class A TT by Arthur Salvatore.

A year ago advised by Vic the Magician and his many years´ study on idler drive I had a very serious conversation with my good old Oracle Delphi MK II.7 to improve his performance. I had no doubts about idler drive whether it works fine on him.
He was very keen to progress and we said welcome ! to new drive method, the direct drim drive.
Superiority of the new drive was simply breathtaking, we couldn´t even imagine the wonder of this new era.
He is very proud and enjoys his new life. We also have new ideas and hopefully complete them in a year.
Now the rubber traction belt on the edge of the Oracle platter has replaced the peripheral wave trap and he and the belt drive are happily retired.

Congrats for your intelligent choice for TT and TA ! Your opinions and reviews are highly appreciated.
Dentdog,

I run the BAT VK-10SE with 60+ different cartridges, including a Maestro and several M/C's. The table is the VPI Aries extended with a Graham 2.2 arm. I have had no compatibility problems with anything I've rotated in and out of my system, weather it be tubes or solid state. I run true balance throughout down to the BAT VK-70SE amp. Only problem ever encountered was when I tried to run balance from the cartridge to the phono stage. I couldn't get away from humm. I tried many different combinations and finally called Victor (BAT guru). His advice was run single ended from the cartridge to the Phono stage. It, to his ears, made no difference. I still wonder to this day, if you don't start out balance, how can it be balance at the end?
Regards,
Don
Thanks Lewm. Granted it's tough wading through all the claims. I think BAT will probably be my choice. Surely they're balanced.
Just don't want to buy a tt and tonearm that's not compatible with the Maestro. I've been stumped on this but Harold's link to trans-fi was certainly informative as is your info.
When I put this together would like to catch "lightning in a bottle." Don't mind the digging in advance.
Dentdog, FYI, Rhea is not balanced. Io is balanced. That's one of the major reasons for the far higher cost of the latter. This is not to say that the Rhea is not a fine sounding phono stage. I have noticed, however, that a lot of companies blow smoke as regards balanced operation,particularly where phono stages are concerned. You have to do a lot of careful reading to figure out whether some of them are truly balance, or not. When you boil it down, not too many can actually make the claim.
Fleib and Harold, thanks.
I can spend 2-5 K, or whatever is necessary to get there.
I guess my concern is, knowing that the cartridge-tonearm-headshell-tt is so important, I would like to make a solid choice in that regard.
I prefer a traditional tonearm.
Thanks again.
Dentdog
Hi Harold..., It looks like the TT fashion is similar to the clothes fashion. My Kuzma Stabi Reference feels insulted by your sweeping generalization. Syntax measured
the Kuzma S.R.(which he owned for some time), among other TT's, with the Timeline and was not able to see any deviation whatever by the Kuzma. So if this rubber belt drive TT has no speed problems whatever there may be some more.
Emperor Fleib,

Your latest post has convinced me to take the FrankinFlieb all the way. It will be done with either a MLa or a ML. The ML cantilever auction ends today. If it works well in the CA, I will sent it off to SS. If it doesn't, off will go the MLa. Let see just how far this CA can go.
May the force be with us!
Hail. all mighty one!
Don
Griff,
The ATN152MLP to a 440 body isn't a transplant, it's a straight up replacement. I was coming from the orig 440ML stylus so I guess a loss in dynamics is to be expected. It's extremely hard to figure out in advance what the final results will be, because there are too many variables specific to individual generators.

In the case of the 440ML the voicing and resolution changed dramatically for the better with the 152. I used to load the 440 at 32K and switched to 47K with the new stylus. It had detail and refinement that completely eluded the cart with the orig stylus. Sometimes I'm reluctant to draw conclusions from one sample because of mfg variables, but in this case the only difference was the cantilever, aluminum vs beryllium.

The CA has a very different set of specs and I was a little surprised with the extent of your results, but according to your posts you've never heard it before with a micro tip or an exotic cantilever, so you have no basis for comparison. Either do I, not with a CA.
The Vivid Line is from a different mfg. Apparently the others are from Jico. Difference in output could be due, at least in part, to voicing. Shibata sounds a little soft, sweet, and might do something different with high freq phase - not sure.

If you believe the results of posters who like the V2 CA, then you can conclude it's better with an additional .5mV (approx.) output. There is the risk that 1mV would be too much and exaggerate some hidden anomaly. That's the chance you take when you redirect the force, Darth Griff. The question is, what would be better the additional output or an exotic cantilever/micro?
My vote would be for a SS level 3, but it's a guess and might require changing your arm height. On the other hand, maybe the additional output would be a revelation and blow away Raul's Denon CD player, LOL. If you get the 440ML stylus you can try a magnet transplant. ?
BTW, LpGear is now sold out of the stylus.
Regards,
The Emperor
Regards Dentdog,
Firstly forget rubber belt drives as they can´t maintain constant speed: the stability of platter´s rotation is the MOST important thing. If you have a limited budget I suggest a Japanese direct drive from the golden age late 1970´s/early 1980´s. Many experts here wiser than me can enlighten you. Also buy a (refurbished if you like) Terminator T3Pro
air bearing linear tracking tonearm direct from the maker Vic himself. He is one of the very few scientific experts in modern analog audio.

But I strongly advice you go straight to the top:
The modern inventions on linear tracking tonearms and direct drim drive and platter technology are here:

http://www.trans-fi.com/

Also, he is using very interesting open baffle speakers...

For me and many other A´goner there hasn´t been no looking back after Terminator and drim/direct drive: these new methods are breathtaking when replay this very complex signal called music.

Best of Luck !
Hi Dentdog,
I'm not familiar with all the equipment you mentioned, but I wonder about the restored Thorens 125. I've seen restored tables going for relatively big money and wonder if it's worth it. You didn't mention price and it might depend on what else is available, but I suspect you might be able to do better.
Regards,
Fleib,

Earlier, you mentioned that you had transplanted a AT152MLP into a AT440 body with loss of dynamics but a gain in detail. Do you feel it was because of the less powerful magnets or something else?
I ask because I am really trying to get my head around this weaker/stronger magnet hypothesis in regards to the AT440ML.
The dynamics on the V/L from LPGear was better than the Shibata from Jico. Could this also be due to better/stronger magnets on the V/L as well? I use to think stylus profile had something to do with this, but your example with the AT152 and the AT440 should have both been Micro lines so perhaps profile doesn't have anything at all to do with dynamics?
Regards,
Don
I'm a newbie, or a long lost but now found music lover. Putting together a what I call reference system,(good enough for me). So this is for advice, not information. Been doing the research, you guys are EXTREMELY helpful.
My proposed system. I have so far a Zesto Leto preamp, in the box, Clearaudio .
Maestro, in the box.
Next is the phono preamp- BatVKP10SE or a balanced phono pre, Rhea,IO, maybe.
Bi-Amp Salk S12s or 10s
Have a pair of Mcintosh MC60s for the top end.
Considering a restored Thorens 125 with balanced Silver Audio Cables, but unsure. Need to get it right the first time. I don't want to be chasing the next great thing. This will be so much better than my old rig.
Back in the day I had a pair of MC275s and JBL Pyramids and a Winn Strain Guage Cart. Would love to swap/compare carts but have a lots of music to listen to.

Turntable and tonearm and
headshell suggestions would be GREATLY APPRECIATED! Raul or any other of you genuses' input would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Dentdog
Virtuoso/440MLa

I have back tracked my play list and I am currently back to ghost of tom joad by the Boss. I hear absolutely no difference between the Maestro and the Virtuoso using the 440MLa as the driving force. Even the pop as the stylus gets lifted at the end of the record sounds the same. I'm having trouble typing this while the Boss is on stage. Just an amazing cartridge/stylus combination.
I have noticed that I did not mention several things that I would consider important.
I keep my records clean. I have and use the VPI 16.5 RCM. I also use the LP Gear's version of the Hunts 3-way record cleaning brush. Final cartridge setup is done with the Best Tractor by Mint. The stylus get cleaned before each side of play with the Onzow ZeroDust. The phono stage was set at Resistance 47K and capacitance 100 + cables which brings cap. total to 156.
It is the contrast between dead quiet and hearing his voice or each of the instruments that is most striking and what is contributing to what appears to be the Boss standing in front of me singing his heart out. Out of the 60+ cartridges I own, the only other cartridge that can do this is the London "Decca" Jubilee. And oddly enough, the "Decca" is also the only other stylus I have that picks up the vibrations that are created when I pick up the metal arm lift. Yes, both the Maestro and Virtuoso did this.
To me,there is no doubt this will be ranked in my very small #1 group. How close to the top? I'm starting to think on the peak!
Before I make that final judgement, I need to mount a couple and compare. 1st up will be the AT180occ!
To be continued!

Regards,
Don